Overnight there was some heavy rain falling, but as we left the hotel at 6:30 am it was dry. Turning out of the hotel car park we followed people walking to the sea front for the start of the Ironman contest, the first event a 1.2 mile swim around Weymouth bay, followed by a 56 mile bike race, and finally a 13.1 mile run. Yesterday the sea was very rough, and we speculated how they would be able to swim in those conditions, however as we drove along the esplanade we could see the wind had dropped and the sea appeared much calmer. We left the sea front and headed out towards Portland. The trees indicated as well that the winds had eased, but as we drove down the road towards the lighthouse the rain began. There must have been a lot of rain overnight as there were huge puddles everywhere, yesterday it was as dry as a bone, today there was water everywhere. Getting out of the car it was clear the wind had eased considerably. However the rain was starting and if the forecast was anything to go by it could be nasty. Looking to the east there were gaps in the cloud that showed some pinkish sky where the sun was just rising.
To the west a dull dark grey curtain, signalling some unpleasant weather to come
We settled in, this time using the monolith as cover, the wind and rain now coming from the south west. Pretty soon it was raining quite hard, and to make matters worse very little was moving off shore. A few Shags passed close to the rocks, but there was none of the movement of Gannets we had seen yesterday. The lighthouse light was on, and as the gulls passed by overhead you could see the light catch their wings. As the light rotated it was possible as well to see a beam of light emitted. There was ten an announcement coming from the lighthouse, it referred to the public and we strained to listen, Ian walked closer and as he did the horn blared out taking us completely by surprise, but now w e knew what the announcement was about. The visibility was not good, but we wondered if the horn was necessary. On the rock ledge below us there were at least four Rock Pipits, and they could be either seen pecking at the small pools on the rocks, or chasing each other around and over the rocks, seemingly oblivious of the weather. A lull in the rain produced another Common Scoter heading east, and a little later a drake and two females on the water just offshore. We could see the breaks in the cloud, but they seemed to past on either side of us and it continued to rain. I one brief respite I picked up a Great Skua heading west, the dark shape and bulk clear, and at one point I could see the white primary flashes, the flight was with stiff wings soaring interspersed with wing beats, a completely different flight jizz to that of a Herring Gull. It flew away into the mirk, but further scanning picked up a smaller skua, with definite pointed wings heading easy just in front of the gloom. This was moving fast with flight like a Peregrine, but at the same time shearing above the waves, whilst not getting definitive views I would have to consider this an Arctic Skua. We were getting wet, and we were hungry, debate turned to where to go for breakfast, we found out that the Lobster Pot would open at 9:00 am so we decided to stick it out. A single auk passed by, it was distant and impossible for a conclusive identification, then as it approached opening time a large flock of Starlings gathered at the lighthouse, and took advantage of the puddles for a group bathe,
At last the cafe was open so we dropped off the scopes in the car, and made our way in. A Full English cup of tea and toast was most welcome, and by the time we had finished the weather was improving, skies were clearing away to the west, and on the sea Gannets were moving in large numbers. As I reached the monument a juvenile Great Black-backed Gull flew past.
But after that it was all about the Gannets, and the chance to age them. An adult bird shearing away to the east
Most of the passage was from west to east, with the birds appearing over the Pulpit rock having come through Chesil Cove and along the west cliffs. Here a group of adults, second and third year birds and what looks like a juvenile
Here a third year bird and an adult.
Adults
A different view as they head out to sea away from us. An adult, a third year and two second year birds
Four adults, two third years and a first year
A second year, the amount of white can vary late in the year
Second year birds in the emerging sunshine.
And finally adults
We could have continued photographing the Gannets as they passed, but felt that we had enough. Back at the car a check of the phone alerted to us of a reported Wryneck at Portland - here we go again! The bird had been seen in Helen's field, the problem was where exactly was that? We walked across the grass towards the Observatory, as we did so we came across three Wheatears, scouring the damp ground for any sign of food.
We paused at the quarry, there was no sign of the Little Owls, but we did find a Blackcap and heard Chiffchaffs calling. As we reached the gate for the Crown Fields we came across Martin Cade who was able to give us some information on the Wryneck and where it was. We took the path through Culverwell, and on reaching the top of the hill we met a couple who told us that the Wryneck had been seen on the track, but then flew off towards the business park. We had a quick look around Helen's Field but there was nothing moving so we set off towards the park, this would take us to the field where yesterday there had been the Wheatear and Stonechats. The fields on either side of the path were busy with Meadow Pipits, but there was no movement of hirundines this morning. In fact we only saw one swallow. A scan along one of the fence produced what we thought were Stonechat and Meadow Pipit, but on a closer look turned out to be Whinchat.
There were in fact six present all perched at one point on the fence.
As we approached the horse paddock a Raven flew up and settled down onto a post.
Chasing the Raven lead us around the paddock and we walked back down the same path we had walked yesterday. Today though it was muddy and difficult to walk along. The hope was that maybe the Wryneck could be in the north east corner where there was a lot of bramble and the birds had gathered yesterday. While there were a few Wheatears about, the Stonechats dominated and the damper ground was making the catching of grubs a lot easier, this looks like a leather jacket.
While the juvenile birds would gather on the park perimeter fence.
We continued along the footpath with no sign at all of any Wryneck. The path led through a narrow corridor with bramble and ivy on one side and the fence on the other. Blackcaps and Chiffchaff were in the bushes, but nothing else. The footpath came out on to the road, and we headed down to the path we had taken the previous day in Southwell. This led us past the equestrian centre. The only thing of note here was the fact that the path was flooded, considering it was bone dry the day before we must have had a lot of rain overnight. We were now heading back down towards the Observatory, looking across to the south the Lighthouse stood out, but without the light and fog horn we had endured earlier in the morning.
Time was moving on, and we headed once again for the car park, stopping again at the observatory quarry. This time a Woodpigeon sat on the rocks, and there was still the Blackcap in the bramble. Crossing the grass towards the car park it was clear that there had been an influx of Wheatear. We counted 18 birds scattered across the open lawn, and, just like yesterday if they came to close their would be squabbles. With patience it was possible to get close, and I wanted also to get low down. This one was distracted by the Leather Jacket it had caught. It was trying to find a way to eat it.
It clearly gave up dropping the larvae, and moving away.
We left the Wheatears and returned to the car. We decided on dropping in at Ferrybridge, but the tide was high and there was very little there. No waders, just a small gathering of gulls in which there were 9 Mediterranean Gulls and 4 Sandwich Terns, one of which was a begging juvenile once again. So with that we drew the Weymouth trip to an end. I love Portland, I have never really had a mega day here, but it always threatens promise, you know it is possible, but you have to work for it. Wryneck has eluded us once again and will probably continue to do so, they are one of those birds that you just have to be lucky with. In total there were 83 species over the two days, I think we had hoped for a few more. But it was a good couple of days and once again after leaving Portland I will be back.
Ian and I had planned this trip away a few weeks ago, having a free weekend we plumped for Portland in Dorset. With it being towards the tail end of September there was always the good chance of something interesting turning up, and the chance of finding something ourselves. At the start of the preceding week the weather was looking promising, light south easterly winds and balmy conditions as the summer finally draws to a close. However as the weekend became closer the weather forecast changed (as they always do!), chances were we would encounter heavy rain on the Sunday, and strong winds through out Saturday. However unperturbed I met Ian at Cadnam where we left one van, and headed west with the morning sun starting to turn the eastern sky a lovely shade of mauvish pink. As we drove though east Dorset the light turned the harvested fields a strange orange pink, contrasting the haystacks and stubble fields. Arriving on the outside of Weymouth we were greeted with signs advising that roads would be closed for Sunday's Ironman event, we understood now why getting a hotel room was so difficult. As we came down hill towards Ferry bridge we noticed for the first time the strength of the wind, the trees were waving hard, and the display flags by the marina were almost blowing over, this was not a good start. Driving into the Portland Bill Lighthouse car par the waves out to see were rough with many a white foaming cap. However undeterred we got ourselves sorted, and after a saga with the car park ticket walked down to the pulpit rock and found some shelter from the strong easterly wind to spend sometime sea watching. Shags were the first birds to move past, coming in close to the rocks, the low early morning sun catching the edges of their wings as they passed us low over the foam of the waves crashing on the rocks.
They passed heading both east and west, while a few were also on the water offshore. Told apart from the larger Cormorant by the slimmer head and lack of white around the bill.
We picked up a couple of Shearwaters that have to be assumed as Manx as we did not get a close or long enough view to confirm Balearic, a specialty here. While several auks passed heading east, one definitely a Razorbill, with no trailing legs, the others could have been Guillemots but with the high swell it was difficult to see enough to confirm. A single Common Scoter flew past heading east coming close to us as it did so.
Rock Pipits were below us on the rock ledges, while behind us there was a sizeable flock of Linnets searching for food around the rocks and path. From the sky came many Swallows, and it was impressive to watch these little birds head out from the rocks and drop down to skim the wild waves as they set off on their fantastic journey south, a daunting trip. The most movement on the sea came from Gannets, with birds of all ages passing both eat and west, but very distant, and this was the best effort I could get of these impressive sea birds.
After a two hour vigil we decided it wasn't going to deliver the goods sow e decided to head inland. Dropping off the telescopes we walked around the west cliffs, making our way through the top fields. A single Wheatear showed as we left the car park.
It was scurrying around the disturbed grass alternating between pecking at the soil and standing upright to look out for danger.
Walking through the fields we flushed a few Skylark and Meadow Pipits and saw a couple of Stonechat in the brambles. Overhead the procession of hirundines continued unabated. The most numerous were Swallows, but in amongst them were House Martins and Sand Martins. They would appear from beneath the West Cliff and skim across the fields heading south towards the bill and beyond. Most of the swallows appeared to be juvenile birds showing very little projected tail streamers. Once again our thoughts turned to what drives this urge to migrate, and how do they know where they are going. And as they head out to sea we could only hope that these birds would return in the spring with a full set of tail feathers. While some of the fields are are left to fallow or have been harvested there were several that were fenced off for horse paddocks, the grass here very short from grazing with plenty of manure to attract flies. In one field close to the fence of the business park we could see plenty of activity. Pied Wagtails at first caught the eye, several were considered fro White Wagtail, but on closer looks are just immature birds and females.
Scanning the field it soon became clear that there was a lot of activity. Meadow Pipits chased each other around the field, keeping just above the ground as they twisted and turned their squeaking calls ringing out as they did so. Wheatears too could be seen engaging in territorial fights as one bird encroached to much on another.
They were also constantly calling, a clicking, chack call, similar to that of the Stonechat.
We walked along the fence which was a small path between the high border fence of the business park and the fence of the paddock. As we did so Stonechats, Meadow Pipits and Pied Wagtails would fly from the high fence to the low and eventually into the field.
All in all there were approximately twelve Wheatear in the field, and probably more Stonechat, it was difficult to count them as they were very mobile. The far north east corner of the field saw the most activity, no surprise as it provided shelter from the easterly wind. The majority of the Stonechat appeared to be immature birds, but with one or two adults. They would favour lookout points from which to watch for insects. While some of the vegetation and mounds in the field provided this, they seemed to favour the fence.
While on the field and fence they seemed wary of us, when perched on the barbed wire of the Business Park perimeter fence they allowed quite close approach.
But watching closely.
Accepting that there was nothing else to be found amongst this commoner fare we headed back to the cliffs and skirted around the business park. It was getting warmer now, and out of the wind quite pleasant. Butterflies were about with Speckled Wood and Red Admiral the more numerous, Ian di find a brief Common Blue. Scanning the horse paddocks at Reap Lane we couldn't find anything other than a tight flock of Starlings, we decided to walk to Sweethill, skirting the paddocks we noticed a Kestrel sitting on a post, we had just earlier watched it fly low over the field, and it looked quite settled preening.
Directly behind the fence was a mound that screened the field from the houses on the other side. A path ran alongside the mound which meant that we could find a spot where we considered the Kestrel to be and then climb slowly up to get a better view, using the bushes and grass as a screen I climbed the mound and could see the Kestrel on the post.
I took my share of shots and then climbed down to let Ian in.
The Kestrel then moved a little further down the fence. I then walked down the lane, and anticipated where the Kestrel would be, climbed the mound again and could see it a little further along the fence.
It turned to look at me.
It was then off again, but showed no inclination to go far, a short glide and it settled once again on the fence. I dropped down and walked to where I thought I could get a better view, climbed the mound and peered through the grass. This time though I found I was almost on top of the bird, it turned to look at me but didn't move, and as our eyes met I had the chance of some wonderful portrait shots. Here you can just see the grass stem through which I was looking.
But as it watched me I was able to get closer, and my favourite portrait.
Then it turned its head and took its eyes off me and dropped from the post and banked away in the wind with stiff wings, gliding away to a fence post on the far side of the paddock. A brief moment of connection with this gorgeous wild falcon. A consultation of the map provided us with a route back through the top fields, and after a short walk through the housing estates we joined a track heading south past more horse paddocks, but then through a corridor of bushes covered by flowering Ivy. A walker coming the other way remarked that we enter at our peril as there were many bees taking advantage of the nectar from these late flowering plants, but we knew there was no risk, and where there is ivy at this time of year there is usually some butterflies, and sure enough we were rewarded with up to fur Red Admirals.
These resting in the warm sunshine before setting off to re-fuel.
Passing Helen's Field we found a couple more Wheatears in the paddocks, and around us were the calls of Meadow Pipits as the rose from the stubble in the fields. The rolling valley at the top of the field at Culverwell dotted with round hay bales.
Heading down the slopes Skylarks sent out short bursts of a call come song, and we watched several again engaging in chases across the open fields. From the Bird Observatory we cross the field to the quarry. The hope was of finding a Little Owl, but instead we came across another Kestrel sitting on the rock ledges.
Almost a Little Owl pose
It then flew off, and we then came across it again as we walked past the Coastguard Cottage. It was attracting the attention of a pair of young Jackdaws that didn't appear to want it around.
Back at the car it was time for a cup of tea, and to decide what next. The strong winds blowing across the open land here on Portland was definitely having an impact on the birds. Checking the latest news a report of a Wryneck at Lodmoor was sufficient to make up our minds. The lure of these enigmatic autumn birds was too strong, and coupled with the possibility of a Long-billed Dowitcher too the decision was made. We pulled into the Lodmoor car park just before noon. The whole area was packed, cars with bicycles on trailers and roofs a sign that the Ironman contest was going to be very busy. We left the car park and walked to the west side of the Lodmoor Reserve, and decided to take the trail north alongside the pools. The begging calls of juvenile Sandwich Terns could be heard above all else and we quickly located them on the shore of the closest pool.
As we scanned the pool Ian picked up a Kingfisher flying straight at us. It then veered off to the left and into the reeds.
There was plenty of exposed mud and the water levels looked low (although we were told they were higher than more recently) Walking along the path there were good views of Lapwing feeding amongst the mud and vegetation.
A little further on a single Black-tailed Godwit was close in.
It was removing mud from the base of the bill and off the head with its leg. Then it appeared to completely shake its body and feathers.
That's better!
Looking back as we passed the godwit the water provided a different background.
In places on the saltmarsh there were blankets of Glasswort, a member of the Salicornia genus of salt tolerant plants. It is probably more widely known as samphire, and in autumn turns a lovely deep red. In the beds here at Lodmoor the Glasswort was a deep red, and in amongst it were up to six Yellow Wagtails accompanied by several Pied Wagtails. The Wagtails moving quickly snatching at the insects in the glasswort.
We get some opportunity to photograph this delightful wagtails if they appear on the sea wall at Pennington, but normally they are seen following the cattle, hiding in the long grass and then flying up as the cattle move. This was a great opportunity to both watch their dainty movements and the get some acceptable shots.
Up to eight sub species of yellow wagtail exist, the birds differing through the colour of the males heads. In the UK we have a yellow headed bird and they migrate here in the spring to nest on lowland areas in east and central England, and southern Scotland. Numbers are though declining, and they are best seen in the autumn as they make there way south once again to Africa and the winter grounds.
Scanning the edges of the many pools we could not find any sign of the reported Long-billed Dowitcher. There are plenty of hiding places though, but we were reliably informed it does seem to favour feeding on the pools closer to the path in the early evening. A lone Grey Heron stood motionless for sometime on the edge of the marsh.
The main reason for being here was to find the Wryneck, but it seemed that no one really knew the location of where it was last seen. The only information we had was that it had been seen on the old tip, but where that was no one seemed sure. The path at Lodmoor walks through the reeds and then out onto the road past housing ant then coming back across the marsh. Rather than continue we decided to retrace our steps and take the route anti clockwise. As we passed the Yellow Wagtail once again a Ruff was pointed out to us feeding in one of the close pools. It was indeed a striking Ruff, a male with a brilliant white head and neck and lovely pale fringed brown feathers.
It made its way around the tussocks of reed, the wind ruffling the feathers.
Most Ruff you will see are fairly plain looking waders with a longish neck and small head. The Ruff though gets its name from the males breeding plumage which can have a ruff around the neck of brightly coloured feathers. In this case it could be a white ruffed male, or possibly a leucistic bird as there is a considerable mount of white. Another identification feature are the bright orange legs
As we walked along the south perimeter of the reserve the Sandwich Terns took to the air. This one of the juveniles.
Coming in to settle on a post.
But then disposed by one of the adults, the black cap of the summer has faded similar to that of the juvenile, but the adult retains the yellow tip to the beak.
The juvenile having been moved onto a smaller post by the adult continues to beg though.
The path then turns north and heads across the marsh with reeds on either side. We stopped to scan the reeds and marsh, and picked out distant Great Egret, and a flying Cattle Egret. From the reed bed came the pings of Bearded Tits, but we doubted they would show in the strong wind and we were proved correct A line of buddleia at first contained very few butterflies, but as we reached the end there were several Red Admiral, Speckled Wood and two Painted Ladies, butterflies that I had expected to see on Portland.
This looked to be a very fresh specimen with little wing damage probably one of this year's recent brood.
Little is known of what happens to the Painted Ladies hatched here, it is not clear if they just die, or actually make a southerly migration back towards the Atlas mountains in Morocco.
We had now some idea of where the Old Tip was, but were still a little unsure of how to get to it. We walked along the road to the north west corner, and then took the footpath back int the reserve. Rather than follow the path alongside the pools we walked along the main footpath that was banked with bramble on one side and reeds on the other. This path reached an end and opened up into an area of waste ground where plants grew through the hard standing, and teasels and grasses dominated.
We felt that this had more opportunity than anywhere we had been so we stood around looking and waiting. This did pay off, but not in the form of a Wryneck, Ian found a Clouded Yellow that after leading us all around the area finally settled to allow us to get some acceptable photographs.
It would tease us by stopping briefly on a flower head, usually a yellow flower, and then be off in seconds and not allowing us to get the chance to focus. It was almost as if it was taking a quick sip and moving on. When it did finally stop you could see the proboscis, so we knew it was nectaring now.
Like the Painted Lady the Clouded Yellow is a migratory butterfly to these shores arriving from southern Europe and north Africa. Like the Painted Lady along the south coast they are regular visitors every year, but have their "peak" years. These migrants can produce in the good years up to three generations in the United Kingdom. In recent years it has been shown that some can over winter in the south, but it is believed the majority perish as the larvae and pupae are vulnerable to the damp and frost.
The Clouded Yellow was off again, and this time away from sight. We resumed our search for the ever elusive Wryneck. We continued up the path which then headed more into the Country Park. Not wanting to go here we turned back and came across some birders who had some more information. The bird had last been seen on the tip which was up a small path and past a pill box. We found the path, and yes it did indeed lead to an area that was as close to an old tip as we had seen today. The place though was almost devoid of birds. A few Goldfinches could be seen in the surrounding trees, and a couple of Chiffchaffs called from the bramble. We walked around the small trails, covering most of the area more than once. Nothing showed or moved in that time that was anything like a Wryneck, and after a couple of hours we had to concede that we were not going to find, or we would be dependent on complete luck. We decided to walk back to the pools and to try our luck with the Dowitcher, hopefully that would conform to its recent patterns. Back at the turn into the reserve there were more pings from the invisible Bearded Tits, we stood waited but gave up also on them and walked back to the pools. The numbers of gulls had increased and scanning through them it became clear that there were quite a few Mediterranean Gulls in amongst the Black-headed Gulls. These two roosting in the open water.
They were then joined by two others, the all snow white plumage of the adult birds contrasting with the deep blue of the water.
We noticed that the Grey Heron was still maintaining its vigil just outside of the reeds.
The Lapwing were also feeding on the mud, the lack of a prominent head crest probably points to this being an immature bird.
It seemed as if the afternoon had been a time of standing staring and waiting. We were now doing the same in the hope that the dowitcher would appear. A way over the back of the reeds a Great Egret flew in, easily identified by the larger and more languid flight it dropped into the reeds and then stretch its neck and opened its beak as if yawning.
Back to closer in, the Lapwing now was working its way through the Glasswort, providing a different background to accentuate the petrol like colours of the green plumage.
Time was running out on the car park ticket, and looking to the skies it appeared that it could be running out on the summer, clouds were building from the west and the sunshine was becoming a little watery. We went back to the car, grabbed something to eat, put some more money into the parking ticket, and then made our way back. Walking up to the view point we had left the Ruff had appeared again and was showing well.
A drake teal also swam by, at this time of year you still expect to see them in eclipse plumage but this one seemed to have completed the moult and was showing off some lovely colours.
A Black-tailed Godwit was also feeding close to the bank.
We continued the wait, ever hopeful that the dowitcher would appear on cue, as the sun gave way to clouds the air turned colder, if we ever needed confirmation that autumn was coming then the weather was providing it. Attention turned to the fly pasts, a single Little Egret, showing the dark bill and yellow feet.
Compare this with the larger Great Egret, a yellow bill, a more pronounced folded neck and longer legs with all black feet.
Under now cloudy conditions we continued the wait. One of the other local birders pointed out a juvenile Yellow-legged gull in amongst the Black-headed and Mediterranean Gulls on the small shingle island. Showing a much whiter paler head than some of the Herring gulls that were dotted about, it did stand out from the other gulls of similar size.
As well as the pale head there was the presence of a smudged mask around the eye, a larger head and stocky bill, more like that of a Great Black-backed Gull.
Then at around 17:00 a shout from a little way up the path, the dowitcher had appeared, but not from the pools at the back as had been predicted but from either out of or from behind the reeds close to where the Yellow Wagtails had been. It was though distant from us, and to start with I had to be satisfied with watching the bird as it made its way feeding across the pool. We had been checking the godwits in case it was with them, but as soon as you see this bird you realise it is a lot smaller, almost snipe like in size, but maybe a little bigger. This was a juvenile bird, and from a distance appeared a uniform greyish brown, but closer up the underparts were more greyish while the upper parts had hints of a richer brown. What did stand out was the pale supercilium. Unfortunately we couldn't see the leg colour as it was wading belly deep. The feeding action was very similar to that of a snipe, a drilling motion with the head submerged into the water. Interestingly all the literature points to them preferring to wade in shallow water just using the beak to probe. Here the behaviour was very similar to that of the godwits that surrounded it. I was only able to manage one acceptable photograph, a record shot at best from distance, but you can see it is a Long-billed Dowitcher.
And then it flew off, heading over the back of the pool into the pool it was supposed to have come from. In flight the only distinct markings was a pale "V" on the back in flight. We had only about 10 minutes with the dowitcher, but that was 10 minutes more than the Wryneck. We continued to wait as the clouds threaten rain. A Marsh Harrier arrived at the back of the reserve and made its way across the reeds with that lazy expectant flight. All the gulls were put up by something and they flew around before settling, it was then that you realised just how many Mediterranean Gulls there were, I counted around 40, this one a second winter bird with some slight black markings in the primaries.
We waited to see if the dowitcher would show again, but with the clouds getting darker and spots of rain falling, plus the fact that the car par ticket was running out once again, we decided to leave it for now and head off to the hotel. We had another day tomorrow, but the forecast was not great. The hope was that either the rain pass through overnight, or it arrive late. We wanted one more chance at a sea watch from Portland, and hopefully if the winds ease there might be something turn up. Back at the hotel we checked in and sorted our selves out. Dinner was taken in the Homemade Pie and Ale Inn, good food, drink and company. For some reason we were despondent about the day, but looking back it wasn't that bad and we did manage a rarity, any other day that would have been significant, but I suppose with it being Dorset, and Portland the expectation was a lot higher
