26th July - Bletterbach Canyon, Aldein, South Tyrol, Italy.

After what would be probably one of many early nights we were up early in the morning.  The dark clouds of last night's thunderstorms had given way to white clouds and sunshine.  Looking across from the hotel room out towards the mountain range the view was once again stunning.  

Before breakfast I spent some time photographing the House Martins and Swallows that were flying around the hotel, once again the House Martins high up.

And against the backdrop of the mountains.

While the Swallows maintained their feeding strategy low over the meadows.

We set of for today's walk from the same point as yesterday, but took a different path that took us past the cow sheds.  One Highland Cow had a little teddy bear with her.

Along the path a Black Redstart flitted from post to post, it's red tail shimmering as it sat on the fence.  It was carrying food and was feeding juvenile birds just fledged that were also in the area.

Initially the path edged along the side of a pine forest, and at a clearing a young Song Thrush waited patiently on the fence.

While the parent foraged in the grass of the meadow, presumably to feed it

On the other side to the Pine trees there were views across the open meadow towards the peak of the Weisshorn.

The moon too was visible still quite high in the sky.

The path then took us through pine and larch trees once again, and we could hear both Coal Tits and Goldcrests in the trees.  One the edge of the forest we were able finally to  see them in the trees.  Coal Tits, Chaffinches and Goldcrests, young birds learning the important skills of catching insects in the conifers.

The path then wound its way down through the forest once again, with more orchids to see, but like yesterday they were all Common Spotted Orchids.  Here the grass provided sparkles of rain drops showing as bright circles in the background

The path then started to become a little steeper and bending as we made our way into the canyon.  The path then became steps which were quite steep in places and we couldn't help thinking about the fact that we would have to climb back out of here.  Finally we reached the canyon floor.  Looking up the sides of the canyon varied in the Reds and yellows of the rocks, the sandstones and limestone, dominating the walls of the canyon and a small stream running along the bottom.   As always it is hard to fathom that this amazing geological structure has been entirely created by the power of the water over millions of years.

Initially created by volcanic eruptions over 275 million years ago, this is the regions only large canyon.  The canyon is formed by three rock stratas, porphyry, which is unique here to the Alps, sandstone and the Dolomitic limestone.  In between there are layers of marl and clay.  As a result this is a very important location for collecting fossils, and many different fossils have been discovered here, mainly in between the strata.

Having reached the bottom we turned and walked up stream, crossing the stream as it wound its way along the bottom of the vast canyon. 

We carried on passing dry waterfalls, and some where the water trickled down from upon high above us.

In places the canyon becomes quite narrow with almost vertical walls.  Finally we reached a cascade with plenty of water joining the main stream.  Our Guide notes said this may be dry, but after last night's rain it was flowing well.

From the waterfall we scrambled over the rocks to the other side and then walked along the side of the canyon before dropping once again onto the floor, following the water up stream.  The canyon opened up with now more angled sides of softer sandstone showing a variation in reds and yellows.

We then came to a set of balustrades that would take us back up to the top. The steps were tough, and we took our time pausing on several occasions to watch the House Martins flying around the rock faces and up to their nests.

Another reason to pause as we climbed what was a very steep set of steps were the flowers along the way, we came across our first Fragrant Orchid.

 Then a butterfly resting on the pine needles required our attention.  It was in fact a Speckled Wood.

When we reached the view point over the Bletterbach waterfall we took off the ruck sacks and rested to enjoy the views.  The source of the water that created the canyon was now in full view.

As we sat and recharged we were joined by butterflies and several lizards warming up on the dead tree stumps and branches.  This was a Common Lizard, or Viviparous Lizard

Then another emerged, slightly larger and well patterned.  This I think is an Ocellated Lizard which is a species of Wall Lizard.

It then came out further, walking along the branch.

The Common Lizard though was a lot closer to us, and was occupied catching flies that would climb the stump unsuspecting it was waiting for them.

With it being on a raised stump I was able to get down to eye level and close into photograph, a dinosaur in the Bletterbach Canyon.

From the seated view point we carried on up the path, finally reaching the top, and some more wonderful views.

From here we walked on what looked like a steady and flat gravel road, heading for the visitor centre.   We had views down into the canyon, from the voices drifting up to us it seemed to be now quite busy, we had been right to get there early as we had the canyon mostly to ourselves.  Looking down we could see people walking along the bed of the canyon, this view a little like the Italian flag!

As we walked along the very welcome flat path there were butterflies and orchids on the way to entertain us.  A rather tatty Large Wall Brown

A Wood White.

The first new butterfly today, the Yellow Spotted Ringlet

And as hoped for yesterday a perfect looking Black-veined White.

Just before the visitor centre there was a small pool where several dragonflies were circling the reeds and water.  A short path led down to the water edge, and we headed down there to see if we could get better views of the dragonflies.  It looked like there were several Hawkers about from the way that they were hunting,  they were blue and yellow , and others almost all green.  As usual they never settled and I had to resort to trying to photograph in flight, which is never easy.  One dragonfly did settle, and this looked like a chaser,  a Four Spotted Chaser. 

As well as the dragonflies there were damselflies, this Common Blue Damselfly

As we made our way from the pool several butterflies turned up.  This Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary.

And the first blue butterfly, a Marzine Blue.

We walked to the visitor centre, and were very glad we had set off early this morning as the place was packed and more cars were arriving.  We turned back retraced our steps and took the path just before the pond heading towards Lahneralm.

At the next turn we took the chance to enter a meadow which led to a cafe, after deciding not to get a drink in what was a very busy place we returned to the meadow and stopped to eat our picnics, with a view up again to the Weisshorn.

As we ate we were joined by a small blue butterfly that was very attentive, and quite happy to sit on Helen's back and shoulder, allowing me some close up views.

It was a Chalk Hill Blue, the pale blue upper wings visible when it relaxed and opened its wings to show the chequered out fringes on the wings.

Finally it decided that it should really take advantage of the clover flowers in the short grass.

As we lefty the meadow at Lahneralm I walked back through the grass disturbing more of these lovely blue butterflies.  We resumed the walk now winding our way up through the forest.  Helen found a new orchid species, this time a Frog Orchid.

From the forest trail we came out alongside some lovely meadows with some lovely lush grass that contrasted so well with the blue skies.

But looking back towards the Weisshorn the clouds were gathering once again, and looked quite threatening, another thunderstorm was on the way.

The path was a tar lined road, and on either side there were plenty of flowers and on these were several lovely Marbled Whites.  As always I can't resist photographing these lovely butterflies.

The path then reached a road, and we turned onto it heading towards Aldein, our stop for the night.  There were more Marbled Whites about, and several whites too.  By the sides of the path were plenty of flowers attracting the bees like this wild Salvia.

The guide notes described the road as "quiet" but it was quite busy, and some of the houses noted as being empty were now inhabited and looking very nice.  At one stop to allow cars to pass we were fortunate to find a single Holly Blue sitting on a leaf.

We turned off the road and headed down a grass track with some lovely views of Aldein, the church as always in this region the focal point for all to see.

The track was steep and in places muddy probably as a result of the recent rain storms.

The track then became a stream and we negotiated the mud and water by stepping on the stones.  At the bottom we turned onto yet another road and headed into Aldein.  It was now hot, and despite the dark clouds away behind us the sun continued to shine, and any shade was welcome as we made our way to the church.

To get to the hotel we had to take a road that ran alongside the church, uphill, and this was not that easy after the exertions of climbing out of the canyon.  However we finally made it and were able to relax on our balcony as yet another thunderstorm clattered away around us.

Dinner was again very nice, four courses although perhaps a little more German this time and local.  Overnight we were treated to the church clock chimining on the quarter, and in style on the hour.  There was no need to check clocks or watches.  Then at 6.45 continual ringing with the call to Mass.  It was still quite warm so necessary to have windows open, as a result it was a difficult night's sleep with the church being right next door to the hotel.

25th July - Weisshorn, South Tyrol, Italy

This year for our main holiday we decided not to travel too far, but to take a short flight into Italy, and then a train up to the Dolomites.  No long international flights with the prospect of jet lag, a short flight and a relaxing train journey, so much more easier.  We were travelling with Inntravel once again, and once again, up to before we left the customer service had been excellent, keeping us updated and at the last moment changing the rail tickets to avoid possible cancellations due to a rail strike.  If the rest of the holiday was a good as this service we were in for a treat.

The Dolomites are a particular mountain range of the Alps, known for the white rock (Dolomite can be said to mean white rock), situated in the South Tyrol region of Northern Italy.  This area has changed ownership over the years back to Roman times.  In the early nineteenth century Napoleon gave the region to the Bavarian troops who helped him conquer the region.  However when he became disillusioned with Maximilian I of Bavaria he took it back and it became part of his Italian Empire in 1810.  Then after the Battle of Waterloo Austria took control of the region and maintained it for the rest of the century.  The area then became popular with tourism and climbing but this ended with the First World War.  In 1915 Italy allied to France, Britain and Russia and this put the region in the middle of hostilities. 

The Great War changed the nationality of the region and the inhabitants.  Ultimately the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian war effort meant Italian troops could occupy the region.  A year after the fighting ceased, the region was given to Italy by the Treaty of Germain.  The region consists of two provinces, Trentino and and the SudTyrol.  Trentino fitted well with the Italian Republic, however the Sudtirol with its majority of German speakers lead to upheaval and friction.  In the 1930's Mussolini's regime trtied and failed to Italanize the region and though the region was occupied by the Germans during World War Two, it was returned to Italian ownership with the treaty of Paris in 1946.

We were visiting to enjoy the scenery, take on the challenge of some serious walking, and hopefully to record some of the fauna and flora.

We were up at 3.00am, on the road at 4.00am, the first challenge was the parking at Gatwick, we finally worked that out after some concerns, and made it through check in and security.  Flight was called on time everyone on board on time, then we waited for an hour to take off.  Fortunately we had a wait at Verona for our train to Bolzano, a wait of two and a half hours, then the train was late.  We arrived in Bolzano around 15.45 local time, we had now been travelling for just under 11 hours.  It was then a taxi ride, and we finally arrived at the hotel around 17.00.  We had been on the road for 12 hours and it felt like it.  In fact I felt much more tired than if we had endured jet lag.  There was a short shower as we sorted ourselves out in the room, but soon the rain cleared away and. The sun came out.  It was then dinner, time to watch the sunset, and bed.  Needless to say it didn't take much to fall asleep.

We were up relatively early today, from our hotel in Radein, the Gasthof Zirmerhof, 

 we would be walking up towards the huge lump of limestone that is the Weisshorn, or Conero Blanco as it is know in Italian.  The area whilst being in Italy has a huge German influence, and in places signs are shown in both languages. The hotel was predominantly German, and it felt like business conferences in the Munich area I have attended.

A few rooms had balconies looking out across the valley towards the Alps in the far distance.  In the clear early morning air the views were wonderful.

Looking west from the hotel.

And out across the farm run by the hotel.

We started our walk after breakfast after yet another drama.  The path took us away from the hotel, through a grazing pasture, with views back behind us of the hotel.

Then up through a forest of Pine and Larches.  In the trees Coal Tits and Goldcrests called, the sun was filtering through, and in the grass on either side were plenty of flowers including what  were to be many Spotted Orchids.

Huge mounds of pine needles by the side of the path, and out under the pine trees were the nests of Wood Ants, you had to get  close to appreciate the vast numbers of these busy insects that have created these huge colonies.

Wild flowers lined the path as we walked, this Martagon Lily one of the stand out flowers.  Martagon is in fact a Turkish name that refers to the shape of the flower, and an alternative name, the Turk's Cap Lily.

There were also low growing azalea like shrubs, which are known as the Alpine Rose, but are really a small rhododendron.

The route took us through forest, and then into more open sunny areas where the first butterflies of the day appeared.  The first to be seen being a first for me, the Large Wall Brown.  At first hiding in the grass.

Then out nectaring on a form of Knapweed.

Smaller butterflies appeared along the path.  I thought at first they were Small Heaths, but on the lower wing there are well defined spots, and a dark greenish sheen, not seen in the Small Heath, they were another first, an Alpine Heath.

Further up we were treated to some lovely views out across the valley.

We could also see down to Radein, the village we had walked from, and the local church.

In front of us was a lovely alpine meadow full of flowers and insects.  Butterflies and moths could be flushed from the grass as you walked through it.

There were more Alpine Heaths in amongst the grass.

And a fair number of Six-spot Burnets, a day flying moth.

A Jay sized bird flew across in front of us, and then another which settled at the top of a pine tree.  It was a Nutcracker, a bird I have seen before, briefly, but I was hoping for the chance for better views on this holiday.  The bird is related to Crows and Jays, and the full name is Spotted Nutcracker.  I described it Helen as a bird the size of a Jay that looks like a big Starling!

They feed on the pine seeds mainly, but will take nestlings and bird's eggs if avaialble, and they were not welcomed by the smaller song birds.

The meadow was full of daisies, and knapweed amongst the grasses, but low down were these delightful purple alpine flowers, known as the Chiltern Gentian, although this is the UK name given to it because it is only found in the UK in  the Chilterns, being the chosen county flower of Buckinghamshire.  It is widespread on the continent ranging from France to the Balkans, and has a a latin name Gentianella germanica.  Over the course of the holiday we were to see them at all altitudes on our walks.

The climb now became strenuous as we approached the 2000 metre mark.  This was our first day at altitude and it was telling, the pace slowed, but it did allow us to spend time watching some more new butterflies.  Although the only ones we found were common in the UK.

The Speckled Wood

And a superb Dark Green Fritillary

In the dark of the pine forests we came across this interesting flower that I have yet to identify.  Thanks to Andrea, this is now identified as Black Rampion.  Found widely across Europe, it is a form of Campula, and apparently this flower features in the story of Rapunzel.

Finally we reached a view point that looked down into the canyon, and up towards the summit of the Weisshorn.  This is the southernmost peak of the Dolomites at 2317 metres above sea level.  The mountain is set in a highly interesting geological area along with the Bletterbach Canyon.  As with the majority of prominent mountains within the Dolomites the predominant rock is Limestone.  

We now had a choice, continue to the summit, or walk around the base at the same level, but before we decided we took the opportunity to rest and enjoy the views over the Bletterbach Canyon, we would be walking through here tomorrow.

It was still a fair way to the top, possibly scrambling over rocks to get there.  As it was our first day walking and at altitude we were not used to yet we decided to rest, take in more of the panorama, and then head downhill through the forest again.

The path now was level for a while as it skirted the contour, then dipped down through grass and woodland.  More butterflies appeared in the open areas despite the now more overcast conditions.

A rather tatty Black-veined White, I hope there will be better specimens of this quite spectacular white butterfly.

A Mountain Green-veined White, another first.

There were also more Alpine Heaths and several other white butterflies that just passed us by not stopping for the camera, one of which was definitely a Large White.

A bird flew up into the pines in front of us and I now had that better view of a Nutcracker.

Along the side of the path there were more orchids, this a deeper purple in colour, but still a spotted orchid.

And in patches these White False Hellebores.

The sun had now gone in and grey clouds were gathering, storms were forecast for the afternoon, but once we reached a mountain inn at Gurndinalm the sun returned.  As we approached the inn we crossed a path that had a sign that left us with no excuse as to where we were.

The Inn was in an open meadow that looked up towards the mountain so we decided to stop and have some lunch and a drink.

A typical Alpine looking building made of pine with shutters with a wonderful patterned grain.

After lunch we carried on down the hill, again through the forest with only now a few butterflies about as the cloud was getting thicker.  The walk took us downhill through forest, and then more open grassy clearings.  In these there were several white butterflies, and when one did stop for me i realised that they were Wood Whites, a rather dainty butterfly that is almost all white and has a very light and gentle flight, almost like that of a fairy or nymph

There was to be one more drama on the walk, I had dropped the route notes and had to go back to find them which meant quite a steep climb back up the path.  Having found them it was back on our way, the path winding down into the village. The path took us through a small fam, and nesting under the eaves of the roof were Crag Martins, similar to the look of a Sand Martin, but without the lighter belly and breast band, these swallows flew around us like the House Martins, then settled on perches on the barn.

We seemed to loose our way but managed to get back onto the path we had walked when we left the hotel.  There were more Six-spot Burnets on the Knapweed, the flower also being an attraction to several types of bee.

As we walked back towards the hotel Swallows, House and Crag Martins were feeding low over the grass in the meadows.

Looking back up to the Weisshorn mountain dark clouds had gathered, and thunder could be heard rumbling away distantly.

We sat on the terraces it's a latte in the sunshine, but the thunder edged ever nearer until finally the rain came, and it was a lot heavier than the previous day with plenty of thunder and lightning.

Once the rain had finally stopped the mountains took on an air of mystery with grey cloud winding around them.  With different shards of light highlighting the range.

With different shards of light highlighting the range.

Dinner in the hotel both nights was superb, set menu, four courses and all of the highest quality.  The service too was very attentive while not intrusive, I would not hesitate to come back here it was excellent.