It was a better morning than yesterday, there was cloud
about but it was high, and the sun shone in places. Today we moved
on to our final hotel in Saltria. We'd had two options today, one
would get us to our destination in around three hours and was not too challenging,
the other involved quite a steep ascent, but sounded much more interesting and took the route we had looked at yesterday when out on the plateau. So
it was to be option two, and after checking out of the hotel, we struck out
along a tarmac road heading out of Compatsch and uphill, under the chair
lift. It was quite fresh, as we walked, but when the sun came out
things warmed up, and combined with the uphill walk it was back to t-shirt
weather.
Grass cutting was in full swing and every so often tractors would pass us on the road causing us to pause and wait for them to pass. On one of those pauses we were treated to a lovely blue beetle on the stalk of a hogweed.
The path took us up to the Hotel Panorama where the chair
lift stopped and we joined the many people that had come up by lift. We set
out along route 2 up towards the Rosszahne Gap. It is now the start
of the holiday season, and we have noticed a major increase in the number of
people since last week. These groups included families with young
children, all being up to the task of a significant walk. It was
possible to see the route from where were, the top part involving quite a
significant uphill zig zag path.
But for now it was a gentle incline over boardwalks that
bridged what was a marshy area called Ladinser Moos but still covered in some
interesting wild flowers, and wonderful views across the meadows of the Sciliar Mountain once again. The two peaks have almost followed us everywhere we have been no wonder they are branded in many place.
The path was well walked and I did not need to refer to any of the detailed
directions, you could always see where you were headed.
There are many huts dotted over the meadows, and on one a Wheatear was sitting on the roof, but as I raised the camera it was off
and away. A little further on there were Meadow Pipits but they
too were camera shy.
The path now began to become a little more rocky, and also
with a greater incline. The walking sticks came out, and we carried on, but
always in front of us was the view of the steep climb to the top.
As we scrambled over the rocks a good way to take the mind from the climb was to look out for, the wild flowers, the rocky ground and increasing altitude meant that we were seeing flowers we had not come across before. Like this Rough Saxifrage, probably available in many garden centres back home for rockeries, but here it was growing wild.
And these Alpine Pinks.
As we reached what was the base of what would be the steep
climb I heard a distant Marmot call, a very piercing whistle, our guide notes
had said this was the best place to see them, but as I scanned the rocks I
wondered if that call would be the closest we would get. Then
another piercing whistle, this time much closer. Then Helen managed
to pick them out on the side of the mountain just above us, There were in fact
two present at the entrance to what seemed to be a den
Many probably think these animals are like Ground Squirrels, and are surprised to find they are almost as big as Badgers. I would love to know what they were looking at, and calling too.
Leaving the Marmots and continuing on, the flowers were now
becaming more alpine, and much smaller and delicate, and I used the time
photographing them to take a breathe as we slowly made the ascent.
This one though is Bladder Campion, very similar to the white Campion we have in the UK.
Every so often there would be small spike of Fragrant Orchids in amongst what grass there was in between the rocks.
I have not been able to identify this tiny orange flowered succulent.
This is known as Buckler Mustard, related to the familiar rapeseed.
A beautiful tiny blue Alpine Forget-me-not.
The dominate flower of the rocks was the Mountain Thrift. They were now probably past there best, the flowering season coming to an end, it must have looked quite spectacular when they were in full bloom.
More yellow flowers were these Alpine Cinquefoil.
And the low growing Kidney Vetch.
Finally these short blue petals of the Spiked Rampion.
The first part of the climb was along a short zig zag path,
where the flowers were at their best, but soon the zig zag became longer and bare of flowers. As a result we
took our time to climb slowly up the side of the mountain. The route
was quite busy, and we would pass people, and then they would pass us as we all climbed higher. looking down to where we had come gives a sense of the climb.
The clouds drifting past below us.
Then suddenly we were at the top, coming around a
large rock to reach a gap that had incredible views on either side, and showed
how far and high we had come. We were in fact at an altitude of 2440
metres, having left Compatsch at 1850 metres.
After taking the time to get our breathe and take pictures
of the incredible views around us we made our way down the other side. Following yet another rocky path, but this time down hill.
Looking up from the path, the peaks of the Rosszahne towered over us.
We stopped and had lunch at the Tiersner Alpl Hutterite, a
busy and popular place. As we walked up to it two Alpine Choughs
flew alongside the peaks above us, not the best views but at least I have
managed to seem them, I was beginning to wonder if I would miss out.
After lunch we started to make the descent down a steep
gravel track. As we did so, an Italian couple in front of us were
pointing at something under a rock. They pointed it out to us, and I
realised that there was a Marmot in a hollowed area eating. I could
just get some pictures despite the darkness of the hole.
The Italian lady then tried to get close to take pictures
with her phone, but seemed to forget that if you keep talking loudly the Marmot
may get frightened and disappear. Well it did, but fortunately it
came out of the back of the rock, and gave us some wonderful close views.
These are specifically Alpine Marmots are in fact members of the squirrel family, but are closely related to Ground Squirrels, and Groundhogs. Alpine Marmots live at heights between 800 and 3,200
metres. They are excellent diggers, able
to penetrate soil that even a pickaxe would have difficulty
with, and spend up to nine months per year in hibernation. Alpine marmots eat plants such as grasses and herbs,
as well as grain, insects, spiders and worms.
Alpine Marmot can be often seen "standing"
while they keep a look-out for potential predators. Warnings are given, by emitting a series of
loud whistles, and sound we were hearing now frequently, after which members of the colony may be seen running for cover.
The breeding season for Alpine Marmots occurs in
the spring, right after their hibernation period comes to a close, which gives
their offspring the highest possible chance of storing enough fat to survive the
coming winter.
As the summer begins to end, Alpine Marmots will gather old
stems in their burrows for bedding during their impending hibernation,
which can start as early as October. Once
winter arrives, alpine marmots will huddle next to each other and begin
hibernation, where their heart beat slows, and their body temperature can be
the same as the air around them. Some
alpine marmots may starve to death due to their layer of fat running
out; this is most likely to happen in younger individuals.
Once it had disappeared again we continued the walk down
hill, the peaks and scree covered slopes on either side of us.
Another new Alpine flower, this time the Alpine Toadflax.
The whistles of the Marmots continued, then suddenly there were Marmots everywhere, running around on the grass
by the side of the mountain.
Then we found a pair on the outside of their
hole.
We saw others too from a distance running across the
meadows.
Waking down the limestone rocks towered above us, and behind
from where we had come. The sun lighting them up and increasing the
beauty of the rock.
As we walked I considered the fact that this rock has been
produced from small crustaceans millions of years ago. While in
Bolzano we were amazed at the age of Otzi at 5000 years, but that was just mere
seconds compared with the age of the rock in these mountains.
Walking on we could hear the calls of the Marmots, and once
or twice the call of a Peregrine, but we were never able to see it.
The sun was now out, the clouds easing back, and we could enjoy the peaks at their best.
As we got to lower altitudes, flowers, and the now, warm sun
produced butterflies, and once again the opportunity to photograph them.
A new butterfly for the trip, a Mountain Fritillary.
The walk down was dominated by them, causing us to stop in
places to see what we could find. This another Mountain Fritillary.
And a smaller Alpine Heath
There was one more alpine flower to catch the eye this delightful Alpine Gentian
We were still heading down hill, winding through Pine forests where Common Redpolls sang from the tops of the trees.
Where before the views of the peaks were behind us, as we descended the views now looked out to the mountains in the distance beyond our next destination of Saltria.
The path continued through short grass meadows where we found several blue butterflies. This our first Alpine Blue.
Plus a lovely Chalk Hill Blue on the path in front of us.
There was also a first Olive Skipper picking up salts from a muddy puddle.
All the time in the grass meadows you can hear the sound of crickets and grasshoppers, and as you walk through the grass they skip away from you. As we came down the path one appeared on the path, and I was able to get a photograph. It is a lovely shade of green and black, and almost shines in the sunshine.
The path then followed a valley with a strong stream heading
away from us, and very soon levelled out taking us through another hotel and
bar area, before we finally came to the hotel Floralpina our residence for the next three days. It
was another exhausting walk, but one that gave you a sense of achievement with
the climb to the gap at quite a significant altitude.
The hotel was superb, and we were lucky to have a room with a lovely balcony that had great views back up to the mountains we had just walked from.
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