The morning was relatively cold, a bit of a shock to the system as we stood in just t-shirts, the sky was changing colour as the sun rose, going from the darkness to light grey and then a pink sheen. With the light came the birds, Cattle Egrets flew across towards the fields while Plum-headed Parakeets flew through the resort in shrieking flocks.
Our jeep arrived a little earlier and we set off, but this time in the opposite direction to that we went last night. Our allocated zone was Zone 6, one of the recommended ones, expectations and anticipation was raised. We were through the only ones in the jeep, we had to pick up four others along the way. We pulled into a hotel resort just before reaching the city of Sawai Madhopur, and there we waited. Our fellow travelers were late and we sat and waited until they joined us. The expectation and anticipation was lowered.
To get to Zone 6you have to travel through the old city, to reach the gate at the opposite end of the reserve. As we drove through the town we were awaken by the smells of the the area, and the sounds of the music coming from the tractors as they set off for work.
At the checkpoint for the zone we waited for the guide to check in. It was dusty and Plum-headed Parakeets could just about be seen in the trees.
One did give a better view as it perched on one of the solar panels.
Zone 6 is much more open, very dry with dust everywhere, we were later than most of the vehicles because of our wait, and we found ourselves following the canters as they laboured their way along the tracks. The vegetation and habitat reminded more of the Masai Mara, and we came across a small antelope that would not have looked out of place there, the Chinkara.
Sometimes known as the Indian Antelope, this species is native to the sub-continent and Iran. They can go without water for long periods, getting sufficient water from the plants they eat. they share the habitat with the Nilgai or Blue Bull, and sure enough we found one close by with its head in a bush feeding.
The Blue Bull is the largest antelope in India and prefers habitat with short bushes and small trees. males gather in groups as do the females when with calf. In many Northern India state they are considered as a pest because they destroy crop fields and cause much damage.
Leaving the antelope we moved on, stopping to take in the view.
We drove around, through the open spaces and then through the trees. Spotted Deer in the disatnce started the pulses racing, and it is easy to see why the tiger has stripes. The grass is a yellow colour and the tree trunks distinctly black, looking through them all you see are black stripes on a yellowish background.
Bizarely we stopped because the guide thought he hard an alarm call, then we drove about 200 metres to a rest stop where people were walking about and using the toilets. Why we waited and listened I will never know.
As we waited to set off once again, Jungle Babblers gathered around the jeeps and vehicles.
While the Rufous Treepies were even more brasher coming into the jeeps to see if there was any food available.
On a tree just away from us a White-throated Kingfisher perched.
As we left the rest area I spotted a large stork on one of the pylons. We stopped and I was able to see it was a Wooly-necked Stork.
We headed out on to the plains and stopped once again, this time because of a Samba alarm call. We sat along with other jeeps and canters and waited until somebody decided to move on. We then headed down hill into the scrub, where we stopped once again, and I studied a fly at the entrance to an ants nest. Once again I had the feeling we were not going to see anything better than that we had.
We drove around, with views of a nice Spotted Deer.
And stopped at a water hole where there was a few antelope grazing, and a little heron by the side of the water.
This was quite pleasant until two people turned up on a motor bike and turned on a pump that scattered all the wildlife.
We moved on and stopped again to watch a group of antelope, a male grazing on the bushes.
And a very young one that was quite happy to wander away from one of the females, and she did not seem too concerned where it went.
Quiet a pretty little thing.
There was time for one more turn through the scrub, past the ant hole once again, unfortunately the fly had gone, but a Mongoose did scramble across the track in front of us.
Then it was back to the hotel, going through the Old city which was much busier than earlier on, the pigs and cows were very active.
Back at the hotel we arranged to go into the city to find an ATM. Our first offer was one in a shop. The sign for the bank of India was laid on the floor outside, I declined the offer. The next two we tried told me I had exceeded my limit. Finally one took me almost to the point of providing money, then declined it. The bank were questioned and they had no idea either. As we left I tried to walk through a glass door which amused the security guard.
The bang on the head though worked as I remembered I had received a text on my phone. I checked it and it was from my bank questioning the transaction. I answered with a big "Y", the card was released for transactions and we turned back and was able to get the cash we needed to pay for the safaris in a jeep. Was this an omen, we hoped so, and headed back to the hotel for sometime by the pool before being picked up once again.
We knew the routine now, at the front of the hotel at 14.15, and wait for the jeep to turn up, Jeeps came, as well as the larger canters. Finally ours arrived, this time with people aboard. We climbed into the back seat and were told we were off to Zone 2, another of the highly recommended zones where there have been plenty of tiger sightings.
Zone 2 is entered via the main entrance, we drove through the gate and then down the main road, passing the turn for Zone 5. The road then forks to the right and we stopped before a small gate to check in before heading down a steep incline.
At the bottom there was an old ruined building, the sort of place you would hope to see a tiger.
Looking up we could see the walls of Ranthambore Fort with monkeys on the ramparts. Around the old ruins were Peacocks and Rose-ringed Parakeets, while in the trees there were Rufous Treepies
We drove on, the track driving alongside some water with overhanging trees, beyond that there was slabs of rock and open grassland and trees, everything looked perfect for a Tiger to walk along. There was a European Kingfisher perched on one of the rocks but I let the jeep carry on. A Peacock was displaying on the track without its dramatic tail.
We came across a small group of Samba deer, one with a fine set of antlers.
We then pulled off the track to check a patch of water that was still present in an otherwise dried river bed. There was nothing about. Turning back on to the main track we turned a corner and could see several jeeps on the track, with people standing up and looking into the grass.
We pulled up to stop, and slowly moved forward as the other jeeps moved on having had their time. In the grass was a large male Tiger, sleeping off a large meal probably. Our first tiger view was not the best but at last it was a wild tiger, remember this is not a zoo, this tiger does what it wants to do, and we were very close.
We stood on the seats to get a better view, every so often the tail flicked up and the Tiger rolled over showing its huge paws.
Then it lifted its head and at last we had some acceptable views of our first wild Tiger.
And then the eyes opened the sighting was complete, what a beautiful stunning animal, even better for being wild.
Our time was up, and we had to move away to allow others in to have their time with the tiger. That was more than acceptable, but as we came around the corner we met with more jeeps. Our guide and driver seemed to be able to get the other drivers to let us in and we were able to look down on a female tiger lying by the side of the road about two metres from the jeep, she raised her head to look directly at us
Then totally unconcerned by our presence she started to lick her fur.
Then the head went back and we were able to witness a large yawn with the tigress showing off the huge canine teeth, although the upper left hand canine was missing, you can see the black hole where it used to be.
Again we had had our time, and we had to move on to allow others the opportunity to see her. We headed on along the track that ends in rest area where we stopped and had a break and chance to use the toilets. Once again we were entertained by the Jungle Babblers and Rufous Treepies, this time the Jungle Babblers were happy to come into the jeep in search of food. I was walking around, totally unconcerned, and watched a Spotted Deer walk across the track.
Back into the jeep we set off once again back along the track we had just come down. In front of us was another jeep and our driver overtook it. The implication of this action was not realised at the moment of the maneuver, but as we turned the corner we were confronted with jeeps heading towards us, but more excitingly in front of them, walking straight at us was a Tiger.
Our jeep slowed as we got nearer, then stopped as the tiger approached. The jeeps behind carefully following the walking Tiger.
And it kept coming, and this meant that we had to reverse, but we were in pole position, the tiger was head on while others could only see it from behind. The jeep behind us had missed out too because of the overtake.
A walk with calm authority, nothing was going to bother it.
Movement in the bushed caught its attention, the ears turning to catch any sound.
For a moment it stopped to wait and see if something would appear. We stopped too and could hear the movement in the bushes but nothing came out.
Then on the other side more movement and it stopped again, behind the tiger the jeeps with the tourists trying as best to get a photograph, although the majority here had either phones or iPads.
The Tiger kept coming, the slow commanding walk forcing us to reverse up. Not sure what was going on in the jeep behind us, but there was a lot of excitement in ours
This snarl revealed the fact that this was the female we had seen early by the side of the road. The upper left canine tooth is missing.
The Tiger shows its stature when it stops to look, its alert and ready
She then moved into the golden sunlight which transforms her coat
Then it must have become all too much because she just settled down by the side of the track, still aware that there was something in the hedge on the opposite side
Then an unconcerned look at us
And this was possibly a reaction to the sound of my camera drive
Hilariously two Barred Buttonquail ran across the road in front of the Tiger, the Tiger though just ignored them
She was more interested in what was going on in the hedge
Rest over she was off again, and so were we, reversing more. If we went much further we would be back at the rest area where a little earlier we were all walking about!
Then as the track met a junction the Tiger decided to walk to her left and away from us into the bush
To support the stills here is some video that Helen took.
As we had reversed back we had to let the other jeeps follow her along the new track, but instead of continuing down the road, she turned off the track and headed away through the scrub.
It had been an amazing encounter, and we couldn't believe our luck on so many counts, overtaking the jeep though was an immense stoke of luck because that put us into the best position, and we definitely made the most of it.
There was still plenty of time on our safari so we headed back down the track the tiger had just walked. There were footprints to show she had been there but most had been driven over by the jeeps that were in pursuit.
The first tiger we had seen was still asleep in the grass, we stopped to see if it would show any more, but apart from a few tail flicks and a paw thrown in the air it was not going to do anything different.
After an encounter like the ones we had just had everyone is relaxed, and talking and so as we came around a corner we were not prepared for what was about to happen. We moved on and came to a ridge of rocks and immediately slowed down. Our guide got all excited again as on the ground by the side of a tree was another Tiger. As we moved forward the Tiger stood up and walked around the tree and climbed up the ridge of rocks where it proceeded to lie down and overlook the track.
It just lay there and looked own on us in the jeep about two metres away, and another jeep back up the track that couldn't pass.
The Tiger turned to look at us
I didn't have to use the full extent of the lens, and when I did I could get a close portrait of the Tiger.
At the time the thought never crossed my mind that we were (a) so close and (b) what would happen if the Tiger decided to pounce, the guides had no guns, and we were blocked by a jeep that was in front of us, we couldn't go anyway. But I wasn't thinking that at the time, neither was Helen, nor our fellow passengers, we were just enjoying another incredible encounter with this magnificent animal.
You get a sense of the size of the paws here.
A complete pussy cat
Not bothered at all by us being so close
Thank goodness
And again some video
It was starting to get gloomy, and time to head back, we actually drove away from a Tiger, leaving it there, not something you expect to say. On the way back we stopped again because there were alarm calls from Samba deer on the the rock plateau. The guide said that he had seen a Leopard dragging a kill, but try as hard a we could non of us in the jeep could claim they had seen the Leopard, which is a shame as it would have capped an incredible day
More Samba were by the side of the track as we drove out of Zone 2, and made our way back to the hotel. As we crossed waste ground that led to the resort the sun was setting, a final celebration on an amazing safari, third time lucky and how.
At last we had seen Tiger, they do exist, and are incredible. We were so lucky to be so close and with incredible views of at least three different individuals. This is what we came to India for, and my word has it delivered an absolutely incredible day.
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