Like last year we decided to go away after New Year, and like last year we would be staying in the Litton in Somerset. This year though we decided to go via Blandford Forum, I had received some advice about how easy it was to see Otters there on the river Stour that flows around the town, I had even been shown photographs and video of a female and three cubs. What could go wrong? Apparently all we had to do was turn up and there they would be. However our record with seeing easy to find otters is not good. We had failed with the easy to see otters in Thetford
The weather was damp and very gloomy, whilst the temperature was not too low it felt cold, the dampness getting into your bones as they say. We pulled into the Stour Meadows Car Park, which is behind the Hall and Woodhouse brewery and changed into boots and walked along the path to the river. The best place to see them was between the West street bridge and the A354 bridge. We walked towards West Street. The river was high and there were signs that it had been much higher in recent days. The only wildlife present were two adult Mute Swans and six juveniles, the adult male showing signs of aggression to a group of canoeists attempting to get over the weir.
We walked along the tow path scouring the water and the edge of he banks with nothing showing. At one point we disturbed a Kingfisher that flew off but there was no sign of any otters. After awhile we decided to go and get some coffee and warm up. After we walked the river once again, this time there were other photographers about, but still no luck. Time was moving on and we decided to call it a loss once again, Blandford Forum is added to the Thetford loss! I will try again.
It was then a case of where t next and we opted to head for Ham Wall, the RSPB reserve in the Avalon Marshes, and the Starlings, the weather wasn't great but we would take the chance. On arriving the car park was half full, we set off to walk a few of the trails before taking up a suitable position to see the murmuration. There were few birds of note around. A Marsh Harrier flew over the car park, and there were the usual duck on the open water. Despite the recent wet weather the trails were all open but very much birdless.
Just after 15:15 we made our way to the first viewing platform. The visitor centre was giving instructions that the second platform was where they could be seen best, the starling using the Loxton's reed bed to roost in previous days, however we decided to stick to the area we had seen them in before, opposite Walton's Marsh. The numbers of visitors had now increased and some gathered with us. As we waited a Marsh Harrier hunted over the reeds, and a Great Egret flew across the wall.
At around 15:45 the first groups were seen around the water tower to the north, gradually these build up and a mass of birds could now be seen over the trees that lead to the Avalon Hide.
It was gloomy, but still quite acceptable to see, the spectacle is always added to by the noise of the Starlings calls, but also the sound of the their wings as they twist and turn together.
They would stream back and from the wall, swarming over the reeds and the trees, it was becoming clear that platform two was the place to be.
Then came the raptors, Marsh Harriers flew below the cloud while above were smaller birds, either Sparrowhawk or Peregrine it was difficult to the tell at the the distance but this changed the dynamic of the murmuration and the swarm started to twist and turn oscillating with darker shades as the starlings evaded to attacker.
Estimating numbers is extremely difficult, I heard estimates being quoted as 350 thousand to millions, who knows, but all I can say is that there are a lot, and they put on a incredible show even if were were in the wrong place.
The main party were going to roost at Loxton's but behind us there were Starlings dropping into the reed bed at Walton's. Not in the same quantity but a significant number and they could be seen in the reeds lining the edge of the water
Then the flying came to an end, but the sounds didn't we could hear the Starlings at Loxton's but had a better experience passing those that had broken away. As we headed back to the car park, we could see them and hear them, the question everyone was wondering was why have this group split from the others, and more importantly but unanswerable who made the decision?. Back in the car park there seemed to be cars everywhere, a considerable difference to when we had arrived. We were able to get away easily though, and made our way to the Litton, about a 30 minute drive.
The forecast for Friday was for sunshine, but when we awoke it was raining. We didn't rush and had a leisurely breakfast before setting out once again to the marshes. Our first stop was on the Shapwick Heath reserve and specifically the Canada Farm area. We walked down the path, which was surprisingly quiet, to the hide that overlooks an expanse of water.
As usual all the duck were on the far side. On one previous visit we had a nice afternoon watching Kingfisher and maybe otter. This time we sat waiting. The lake was transformed when the sun came out, the reeds turning a golden colour in the winter sunshine.
Marsh Harrier hunted the distant reed beds and would stop in the trees. Here a dead tree allows for an Osprey impersonation
While another female sat in another tree, all very distant.
The harriers would drift over the water upsetting the duck, which would then fly around but still settle a long way off. Mostly though the two female harriers would hunt over the reed bed to our right and as I followed one I picked up a Bittern flying just above the reeds it never gave great views and disappeared into some scrub, but it was a Bittern, not always a guaranteed year tick.
A male Marsh Harrier then appeared from over the hide and flew across the water turning to the left but never came back around the island in front of the hide.
We gave it a good go but finally had to concede defeat, maybe the fresh breeze that was making the water choppy had something to do with the lack of birds. Walking from the hide there was a lot more bird song, the sun enticing them to become a little more vocal. Blue and Great Tits could be seen in the Alders while a group of Goldfinch and Siskin fed at the top of the trees.
In one of the fields a Grey Heron used a mound as a watch point, the field probably flooded.
From Canada Farm we stopped for a warm drink, then headed back to the Ham Wall car park. The skies were almost clear now and the good weather would no doubt bring the hoards to see this evening's Starling show. Pulling into the car park the numbers were already building but there was still plenty of places.
We had time today so set off into the Shapwick Heath reserve following the main permissive path that at one time was the railway line. Reed beds are on either side and in places open out into open water. On the far side a single Great Egret sat amongst the reeds.
The duck were using the shelter afforded by the copse, present were Shoveler, Teal, Wigeon, Mallard, Gadwall, Tufted Duck and Pochard.
The whole Avalon Marshes are managed and use a lot of grazing animals, in the morning we had seen a huge herd of Red Devon cattle being herded through the fields. These are hardy cattle that can handle the winter conditions. Another grazer are the Highland Cattle, they will tackle the reeds and scrub and are an important part in keeping back the advance of the reeds. This bull was lazily following a herd of cows that had already disappeared into the scrub.
We made our way to the Noar Hide, an elevated hide looking out over a large expanse of water and reed bed. A huge number of duck were present on the water, mostly Wigeon, but also Teal, Gadwall and Mallard. Once again Marsh Harrier were hunting on the far side and every so often this would send panic through the duck, and they would take to the air like a mexican wave stretching across the water.
Sunlight at this time of year is incredible, it touches everything with a golden light and transforms everything from a monochrome appearance to one of glorious colour. Looking around the water in front of the hide this was so evident.
But back lit by the low sun the reeds can also look splending in a black and white world. There is something about the shadows they cast.
With the sun dropping in the sky it was time to head back to Ham Wall to get in place for the Starlings, the clouds were fading and it had all the hallmarks of a good showing.
Waling back the low sun was picking out Glastonbury Tor away in the distance.
We decided that this time we would walk down to the second viewing platform. A lot of people were already in place. Rather than jostle with the crowds we dropped down to the bank of the canal, the reed bed in front of us lit up by the winter sun.
The warm up acts for the Starlings were the wildfowl out on the water. Shoveler sat in the shade of the reed reflections.
And could be seen flying around in pairs.
While the Teal conducted their own little air show circling the reeds and open water attempting to land before going around once again.
Finally dropping down into the many pools hidden amongst the reed bed.
Drake Mallards showed off their bottle green heads as the sunlight caught them out in the open.
While On Glastonbury Tor it was as if people were standing and waiting there for the show.
The crowds continued to arrive, young babies cried, dogs barked and boys ran around the area going dangerously close to slipping into the ditch. The Starlings were late, there were murmurs amongst the crowd have we missed them? Will they come tonight? Would they go somewhere else?
People were also not sure what they were going to see, they had come because they had heard about it, but really didn't know what to expect. Last night they started to appear around 15:45 but it was gloomy then, today it was clear and still quite bright at 16:00, then like last night a group appeared around the water tower. Distant to start with they were only visible with binoculars, and the majority in the crowd did not have binoculars, then as the numbers grew they became visible to naked eye and the chatter began to die away, but not the screaming kids and barking dogs! In front of the water tower the numbers were building.
The swarm grew and grew, but unlike last night did not move from the area close to the water tower, in fact if we had stayed at the first viewing platform. With the numbers now having built up the birds of prey arrived. The Marsh Harriers glided below the Starling flocks, it reminded me of the way sharks swim around the bait balls in the ocean, while above there were Sparrowhawks and one Peregrine.
It then became quite clear the Starlings had changed their minds and would not be using the Loxton's reedbed today, we could see them heading over the wall, and heading towards the reed bed that the breakaway starlings had used last night. Maybe the discussion during the day changed the majorities mind, or maybe this was a tactic to evade the many raptors that were about yesterday. We made a quick decision to head back, as we did so the Starlings were swarming against the evening sky.
Arriving back at the first platform we thought we may have missed the spectacle then from over our heads thousands and thousands of Starlings black against the indigo sky and bright quarter moon.
In front of us peering through the gloom the reeds were black with roosting Starlings, prime position being in the middle, lower down the risk of drowning overnight high up the risk of being taken by a later harrier of owl overnight.
The flocks continued to twist overhead, joined by birds in the reeds not comfortable with their positions.
The flocks above continued to behave as if one huge organism, twisting and turning, then swooping low and into the reeds.
Eventually the activity in the sky is subdued and the noise levels increase from the reeds.
And it is left to the stragglers arriving in small groups of up to a dozen to try and find a safe space in amongst the thousands already in place.
Back in the car park the headlights lit up the place and out on the road the bright rear tail lights as cars queued to leave gave the site the air of Christmas lights. There were many more cars than the previous night and once again I thanked the fact that we only had to get ourselves in the car and get away. Any later and we would be sitting still for some considerable time.
This was the fifth time we have seen the murmurations here at Ham Wall, and everytime they are different. The two days we have witnessed though were very good, the numbers seemed much higher than last year. I don't think I will ever tire of the spectacle, it is amazing and well worth taking the opportunity to see
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