27th August - Aldeburgh to Thorpeness, Suffolk

It has become very much a tradition now that come the August Bank Holiday we go off and spend the time with my sister and brother in law.  This year we were off to Suffolk and the sea side town of Aldeburgh, the former home of Benjamin Britten.  While the opportunity for birding was much reduced it was possible to get out and about to enjoy this area of the Suffolk Heritage coast.  While this post is dated the 27th, we arrived on the 26th and had an early evening start.  Walking back to our holiday home we headed along the sea front where the shingle beach was littered with fishing boats, some operational while others had seen better days.  The soft evening light makes the scene.

The following morning we set off to walk around the River Alde estuary that snakes its way across the marshes to the south of Aldeburgh.

The River Alde and River Ore meet northwest of Blaxhall. From there downriver the combined river is known as the River Alde past Snape and Aldeburgh, and then again as the River Ore when it turns south to follow the coast as it approaches Orford and flows by a shingle spit before emptying into the North Sea.

The source of the River Alde is Brundish near Laxfield in the same area as the River Blyth. Soon after combining with the River Ore, it reaches Snape where it becomes tidal and widens considerably. It meanders east past Aldeburgh, before being turned south and running parallel to the coastline behind a narrow shingle spit.

Old maps show that at some point the rivers emptied into the sea just below Aldeburgh, but a shingle spit developed over time forcing the rivers south to Orford.

We crossed an open meadow to meet up with the river, climbed the sea wall to be greeted with views north towards Snape.  I have been experimenting with black and white images on landscape photography this year and these big sky scenes are extremely suitable producing images that are more dramatic than the original.

On the marshes side of the wall were streams and small pools.  I later found out that there had been a Wood Sandpiper present and also up to 15 Spoonbill.  All I found of interest was a single Common Sandpiper on the river mud and these two Egyptian geese that flew in to preen by the side of the water.

As we approached Aldeburgh there was a large group of cattle in the corner and with them I managed to see two Yellow Wagtail, much too far away for the camera though.

As we reached the shingle spit I took the opportunity to take in more of the scenery, again in black and white.

Aldeburgh is a pretty coastal town on the river Alde and enjoys breathtaking views both seawards and following the river Alde inland towards Orford. Its name comes from ‘Alde Burgh’ meaning “old fort” and the town’s history is closely linked to the changes time and Mother Nature have wrought to the coastal map.

Aldeburgh was once an important Tudor port and its shipbuilders were responsible for Francis Drake’s ‘Golden Hind’. But over time the River Alde silted up taking its toll on the town’s fortunes, and coastal erosion swept away the heart of its old town. Some historic buildings have survived the centuries, such as 400-year old Moot Hall, the Norman Church and a Martello tower.

Aldeburgh had to wait until the 19th Century fashion for beaches and craze for sea air brought back visitors in quantity, establishing it as a popular seaside resort.

In the afternoon I set off with my sister to walk north from Aldeburgh.  We headed towards the beach where we came across one of the most controversial monuments celebrating the life of Benjamin Britten (who would walk along the beach in the afternoons).  This is ‘The Scallop’, created by local artist Maggi Hambling. This sea shell sculpture sits on Aldeburgh’s beach to the north of the town. There have been petitions to have the shell removed as some see it as a blot on the landscape which is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, but others feel it is a perfect reminder of Britten and a good tourist attraction!

Originally born in Lowestoft in 1937, Britten moved to Snape on the death of his mother in 1937 and then to Aldeburgh in 1947, which became his permanent place of residence for the rest of his life. It was here that Britten and the tenor Peter Pears came up with the idea of mounting a festival.  The festival was launched in 1948, but by the 60’s had outgrown the location and plans to build a new concert hall in Aldeburgh were not progressing. When redundant Victorian maltings buildings in the village of Snape, six miles inland, became available for hire, Britten realised that the largest of them could be converted into a concert hall and opera house. The 830-seat Snape Maltings Hall was opened by the Queen at the start of the twentieth Aldeburgh Festival on 2 June 1967.

We walked the beach, once again taking in the shingle and wonderful views north to Thorpeness and out to sea.

Turning off and heading inland about halfway to Thorpeness, took us across the North Warren RSPB reserve.  There wasn't much about, only a brief glimpse of a Wheatear, but in one corner of the field were a group of cattle and many Swallows were flying around the cows and low over the grass.  A little further along an un-grazed field had at least three Whinchats.

The path then crossed what remains of an old railway line, we turned onto this and headed north, once again towards Thorpeness.  I flushed a butterfly from the path and it flew up and settled in the nearby bramble.  When I finally managed to find it amongst the leaves I was surprised to find it was a Grayling.

Walking past the golf club you immediately come across a windmill.  Thorpeness Windmill is a Grade II listed post mill which was built in 1803 at Aldringham and then moved to Thorpeness in 1923. Originally built as a corn mill, it was converted to a water pumping mill when it was moved to Thorpeness where it was used to pump water to the House in the Clouds. which is close by and best appreciated from a distance.

The House in the Clouds was originally a water tower  It was built in 1923 and was designed to improve the looks of the water tower, disguising its tank with the appearance of a weather boarded building more in keeping with Thorpeness's mock-Tudor and Jacobean style, except seeming to float above the trees.  In 1977 the water tower was made redundant by a mains water supply to the village, and additional living space was created. In 1979 the main water tank was removed to fully convert the building into a house. 

Unfortunately I was not able to get a clear view of the house, but the Windwmill was accessible

We walked into Thorpeness and then picked up the beach once again where we walked back to our house, this was after finding ourselves a little confused by the roads in the caravan park.

That evening another walk into Aldeburgh for dinner and more boats on the beach.

Tomorrow a chance to visit one of the important places close by to Aldeburgh