22nd - 23rd February - North Norfolk

We had planned for this trip to take place in January but the snow timed it such that we had to postpone.  The purpose of the trip was to see if we could witness both the Pink-footed Geese and the wader flocks at Snettisham, and of course to experience Norfolk hospitality and good food.  Unfortunately this weekend the tides were not so conducive to ideal wader watching, and in February the geese have consumed the beet crops and moved on.  No matter we were still looking forward to our time in a beautiful part of the country.

Ironically, as we set off on the Friday we were subjected to snow flurries that we were looking to avoid in January.  It was bitterly cold, and very grey.  As we passed King Lynn, heading towards Snettisham we took the chance to drive around the Wolferton triangle.  A couple of Golden Pheasants were being seen regularly over the past few days, but we couldn't find them.  Over the course of the two days we toured the area three times without any luck. 

I had checked the tides and found that at Titchwell high tide was around 16.00, and it was much the same at Hunstanton, so I thought that we had missed the chance at Snettisham as it is usually at the best around 90 minutes before high tide. We arrived around 15.30 and walked from the car park to the rotary hide.  When we were sheltered from the wind it wasn't too bad but when exposed it was bitterly cold.  When finally we came out on to the beach I suddenly realised how vast the Wash tidal expanse is.  The sea was gradually coming in, but there was huge amounts of mud still exposed.  There was no way this was going to covered by darkness.

We took a position sheltered from the wind, and watched the mud.  Behind us were a series of pits created by gravel extraction.  They were very quiet with a pair of Goldeneye and Pochard and a lone Little Grebe.  On the mud in front of us were Curlew, Black-tailed Godwits, Dunlin, Shelduck and a small flock of Avocet.

Away in the distance we could see sizeable flocks of Knot and Oystercatcher.  It was the Knot that we hoped would perform for us, despite the fact that there was a considerable amount of mud still exposed.

It happened quite quickly, and without any real reason, suddenly in the distance the Knot took off and this triggered a reaction from other flocks.

They flew around for a while, and some even broke away and flew over our heads in the direction of the pits, the sound of their wings clearly evident as they flew over us.  As the flocks wheeled around you could hear the noise of their wings as they twisted and turned.  Finally they began to settle once again back onto the mud.

After a short rest they were off again, this time in distinctive separate groups, showing well above the mud.

They settled back on the mud, and found higher ground.  It was now quite murky and very cold.  We waited to see if they would move again, but the approaching tide did not seem to be making much of an impression, so finally we conceded defeat to the wind and tide, and made our way back to the car.  We both agreed we should try again next winter when the tides align.  There was no sign of any geese other than the resident Greylags.

We stayed in the Rose and Crown at Snettisham, and after a wonderful dinner, and pleasant night's sleep we set of on Saturday morning to explore the marshes and pools around Titchwell RSPB reserve.

Overnight there had been more flurries and there was a dusting of snow on the roofs and fields around the area.  As we made our way towards Titchwell, the snow increased, and we wondered what the day was going to bring.  The first stop was the Fen Hide, where apart from some feeding swans, and a lone Coot it was quiet, it did allow us though to see out the snow flurry in the relative warm and dry.  Once the snow eased we decided to walk around the trail to the east, there was a large pool with plenty of Pochard.  The area is very open, and despite the viewing blinds the duck see you coming very early on, and the Pochard made there way off to the other side of the pool, looking over their shoulders as they went to see where we were.

The drakes are lovely ducks we the rufous red head contrasting with the pale grey backs.

We left the Pochard and walked back along the trail.  It was snowing lightly now, and around the the boggy area there was a flock of Long-tailed Tits.  They are one of the earliest breeders and you could see within the flock that they were behaving in pairs.  These two were exploring the lichen on the tree branches.

A Water Rail squealed from behind, but despite searching we could not find it.  There was a small pool by the trail, and on it were a pair of Tufted Duck.  The male seemed content to just drift around the pool, while the female kept diving around her mate, bobbing up either side of him.  They allowed us to get quite close, and as a result we could appreciate once again the lovely plumage.  The jet black head and golden yellow eye of the male, the pale blue bill of both and the lovely markings on what are usually thought of as the drab female.  With the reflection of the reeds making the scene even more dramatic.

The snow was still falling and you can see the small flakes lying on their feathers.

The trail took us to the sea wall, and we walked along it while watching the freshwater lagoon, and the marshes to the west.  A Marsh Harrier rose from the marsh, and gradually drifted over us as it gained height and headed off towards the east.  We went into the first hide, and spent sometime watching the Brent Geese that had flown in from the lagoons.  With the grey skies the water appeared white in the distance and created a lovely scene for the dark grey geese and their reflections in the still water..

There is a brand new hide at Titchwell that sits between the freshwater and saltwater lagoons.  It was very welcome today as it provided an escape from the cold, and somewhere to watch the birds while enjoying a warm cup of coffee.  From the other hide the lagoon had looked empty, but from this hide suddenly we were presented with several new birds.  Away off in the a female Long-tailed Duck sat on an island.  She was too distance to photograph, but we were able to see her through the hide telescope.  Apparently it has been present for about a week and alternates between the sea and the island in the lagoon.

A small group of Black-tailed Godwits provided a nice scene, again with the reflections in the water.  While some slept others either preened or probed into the water.

As well as the godwits there was also a flock of about 30 Avocet, again content to just tuck their heads under their wings and sleep away the cold weather.

.
Duck at this time of year are at there best.  The males are looking splendid in their new plumage, and the females if you look carefully are just as spectacular in their own way.  This drake Teal was dabbling at the edge of the lagoon in front of the hide, providing some wonderful views and allowing us to appreciate the detail of the feather colours.

We all get used to watching these ducks from the side as they swim by, but it was interesting to look at them from behind, and really appreciate the beautiful tail and wing feathers.

Gadwall can be an underrated duck, appearing just as a grey and brown duck, but again look closer, and the plumage is really beautiful with the waved breast feathers and the lighter brown tipped primaries.  As this drake swam past it created a bow wave flowing over the breast.

Both Helen and I both agreed that the female close up is definitely the smarter bird.  The combination of browns on the feathers on the back and flanks produces a variety of delicate colours.  She obediently followed her mate as they swam in front of us.

We left the freshwater side of the hide, and checked the saltwater.  There were a couple of Ringed and Grey Plover in front of the hide, but not as much action as on the other side, so we decided to venture out into the cold, and try the beach.  As we came to the end of the walkway we stopped to watch a Spotted Redshank feeding in the brackish water.  Much greyer with clear spots and slightly larger, with clear spots than its Redshank cousin it seemed quite content to wade belly deep in the cold water, plunging its head deep to feed.

 Strangely the wind did not feel so cold down on the beach, but there was a definite smell as we made our way across millions of dead razor clam shells.  The tide was far out, and on the sea we could see rafts of Goldeneye bobbing about.  On the exposed rocks there was a very large and noisy flock of Oystercatchers.  They would break off from feeding amongst the sea weed to berate each other with the distinctive and irritating calls.  The process would involve chasing a neighbour with the head down, and the bill open and sometimes dragging in the water.

The birds are still showing signs of their winter plumage as the neck collar was still visible.

Looking both east and west there was endless sea.  The sky was a dark grey as was the sea making it difficult to discern the two, while in the middle the wind would produce a mist over the beach as it picked up the dry sand and blew it around.  These North Norfolk beaches hold special memories for us, they are beautiful both in the winter and the summer.  It was just around the coast a few years ago at Holkham where I remember my mother having a wonderful time just paddling in the surf, a very special day.

As well as the Oystercatchers on the rocks there was a few Knot and Dunlin.  A small flock of Sanderling flew past us and over the irritating Oystercatcher calls, the bubbling call of the curlew could be heard calming the scene.  The Curlew were working the rocks, pushing their long curved bills into the crevices and pulling out little bits of food.  This individual was taking the chance to rest.

The tide was definitely coming in now, and was beginning to cover the rocks.  We continued our walk until an inlet prevented us from going any further.  We followed this up the beach, and it became a small pool where we found two common seals.  It was a bit like a giant rock pool catching crabs because they were going to have to wait for the high tide before they could swim out, unless of course they ventured across the sand.

As we watched the seals a skein of Brent Gees flew over our heads coming from the salt marsh.

Looking back the beach again looked spectacular with the weak sunshine highlighting the distant grey sky.

As well as the beach the dunes were now looking spectacular as the sun began to come out.  The clouds were lifting and the sunshine was picking out the yellows and greens of the dunes.

With the rocks now gone due to the incoming tide the Oystercatchers had to move, and there was a steady procession of them from the beach over the dunes and away in the direction of the pools.

We made our way back to the reserve by walking now at the top of the beach.  This eventually took us through the mounds of razor clam shells.  Apparently during the winter storms these are washed up on to the beach, and become a major attraction for the waders.  As we made our way through them we disturbed quite a large mixed flock of Turnstone, Knot and Sanderling.

I love to watch the Sanderling as they feed and still photography does not convey I think the beauty of these birds.  They scamper across the beach and sand like clockwork toys, their legs moving so quickly.  The best place to see them I feel is when they are at the waters edge, and they run into the surf only to turn away so quickly to avoid a large wave washing over them.  I had to be content here watching them make their way across the razor clams and then running up an down the sand busily chasing each other if they should locate some morsel of food.

While the sanderling were extremely busy the Knot were quite calm and i managed to get close to this individual.  These are the birds we watched wheeling around the wash yesterday.  They are very grey above in the winter with silver white under wings which provide the contrast as they fly around.

Leaving the waders behind on the razor clams we took the path back into the reserve, on the first pool we came to a pair of Pintail were slowly making their way across the water.  The male looked spectacular and it seemed to be in the beginnings of a display as it would raise itself up in the water to extend the neck, and to accentuate the white "go faster" stripe up to the head.  It reminds me of the white flash on the side of Starsky's car from Starsky and Hutch.

Once again a truly beautiful duck, the chocolate head contrasting with the pale blue bill and the back and grey body plumage, and that wonderful white stripe, that from behind looks even more impressive.

They swam ever closer, but unfortunately not as close as I would have wanted and then they were off, the male first followed once again by the attentive female.

We made our way to the hide once more to top up on coffee.  The Oystercatchers we had watched leave the beach had collected on one of the small islands, but were clearly not happy, and every so often they would be spooked and would fly around.  The black and white plumage looking spectacular against the drab background.

One of my favourite ducks is the Shoveler, I just love the colours in the plumage, the russet red flanks the dark bottle green head, the pale blue wing flash, and of course the ridiculously large shovel bill.  There were plenty around the hide, but most were tucked up roosting on the bank, until this male drifted past the hide.

What a gorgeous bird, it swam past us,and then headed for the shore and stopped in the shallows to undertake an extensive preen.  The reflections in the water are lovely.

Shortly after this we mad our way back to the visitor centre where we were entertained by the resident Robins feeding from Helen's hand and a couple of Brambling on the feeders.  I just managed to see the elusive Water Rail as it hid in a ditch, but it was too dark to photograph.

From Titchwell we made our way late afternoon to Royden Common.  This is a well known Hen Harrier roost site, and over the last few days there had been reports of up to four birds including one male.  I watched from the car park, and it was very cold.  After seeing Buzzards and Grey Partridges in the surrounding fields I was warmed up by very distant views of a Barn Owl.  Finally a Hen Harrier appeared, but again very distant and flew low over the long grass and gorse.  It was joined by another, they were both ring tails, probably females.  As the light faded, it became much colder, and I gave up on the chance of photographs and a male bird .  We headed back to the Rose and Crown for a hot bath, an England win, and a lovely evening meal.

We were not able to witness the scenes we had hoped for, but vowed to return next winter when hopefully the tides and gees will deliver the goods.

26th January - Romsey and Testwood

After the garden Bird Watch this morning we decided that it would be nice to go somewhere different, with the chance to catch up on some birds that we just don't find around Four Marks.  The first stop was Romsey, and Mercer Way. 

At the end of the cul de sac we parked and walked to the small park.  There were several birders there with cameras and scopes, and we paused to watch and see if we could see the target bird.

As we stood there a mother with her children walked down the path.  One of the girls asked their mother "why are those people bird watching Mum", to which the mother replied "they like to look at extinct birds!" - Wonderful!

 There was plenty of activity with Chaffinches, Goldfinches and several smart Bramblings using the puddles to wash and drink from.  A couple of extremely smart male Bullfinches put in an appearance but even they were still the supporting act for the star bird.

We saw a couple of the stars fly away, but they never settled and it was impossible to see them well.  We decided to walk around the area, and did manage to get some views.  However after a stroll along the canal towpath we returned to have another go to see if we could get some better views.

They are notoriously shy birds, and winter is the best time to see them when the leaf cover reveals them, but even then they stay well covered in amongst the branches proving a challenge to photograph.

Helen found the first bird, but all I managed to get was this view, any idea?

It is that wonderful finch that you just don't see like all the others, it is a Hawfinch.  These are truly enigmatic birds, they seem to be genuinely scarce in most places, even when woodland areas seem suitable for them.  In other areas they are seen year after year, and Mercer Way is just one of those places.  Just recently as many as 30 plus have been seen here

There were up to four birds in the trees here but they were extremely difficult to see, the least disturbance would see them off and away, high up and into the trees or worse away over the tree tops and out of sight.  Fortunately we were able to get some better views and with that some nice photographs.

It perches upright in the tree showing off the bull neck and the massive bill.

In this picture you can see that the bill has some mud on it, probably as a result of foraging on the ground, something that we were not able to witness.

Gradually persistence and patience paid off and we managed to get slightly closer views.

A stunningly beautiful bird, with an orange brown crown contrasting against a pale grey neck, and the dark brown back highlighting the white wing patch, and then of course that sharp pointed stocky bill which makes it unmistakable.

From Romsey we decided to checkout Testwood Lakes.  I had never been here before, and thought that maybe it was an opportunity to catch up with another beautiful bird that captures the imagination.

As we made our way around the lakes path a large flock of Lapwing were flying around the area, probably looking for a suitable place to land.

In order to get away from the dog walkers we made our way to the hides.  In the first there was not much around.  There was a group of Wigeon on the lake, and with them was a lone male Shoveler. The male Shoveler is one of my favourite ducks, the white breast and the orange flanks at this time of year make them a gorgeous sight, and typically they seem to always sleep right next to the water line providing a lovely reflection.

From the first hide I managed to find our target.  It was a long way off but the electric blue of its back stood out in the afternoon sun.  We left the hide to walk to the next which was hopefully a little closer.

Scanning the edge of the lake we could find it again, and we had to make do with the lovely light highlighting a male Mallard against the reeds.

Then Helen noticed something flying across the lake towards us, and suddenly realised it was a Kingfisher.  It came straight at us, and even perched in front of the hide.  It had a small fish in it's bill, but unfortunately it was behind some small trees and I could not focus the camera, and then it was off and across the lake.

 we watched it go from a concrete wall to fence posts, and to fish from the posts and while hovering.  Finally it flew across the lake again and perched in the willows.  This was the best picture I could get.  It is there if you look closely.

We had set out today to find Hawfinch, and to see Kingfisher, and we had managed both.  Unfortunately I had not been able to photograph the Kingfisher as I would have wished, but that did not take from the fact that we had some wonderful views of another beautiful bird, which is what it is all about, enjoying the beauty of the natural world.  I wonder how many of the dig walkers could say that!

The Azores, Sao Miguel - 27th October to 3rd November

After a journey that was not without it's incidents we finally arrived at our hotel in Ponta Delgado in the evening, which meant that we had no chance to see or eval;uate where we were.  We had decided to come to this island in the middle of the Atlantic in the hope of getting some time whale watching, we were also aware that the island itself had its own treasures to explore, there being plenty of opportunities to walk the volcanic craters and uplands.

the next morning we were confused by the clock change, the Azores are on hour behind GMT, and by relying on technology to change the clocks, we found ourselves wandering the streets of Ponta Delgado when there was nobody about.  The day was quite mild, with a fair breeze.  We had decided to explore, but found ourselves at the harbour, so we went and asked about possible whale watching trips.  The news wasn't good, as the days trip had been cancelled due to the wind, and there was the distinct posiblity that with the weather forecast for the week, other sailing through the week would be cancelled as well.

As a result we decided to walk back to the hotel, and set off to see as much of the island as we could today, while the weather was relatively good.  We set off to the west, and then turned in land to climb up towards the village of Setes Cidades.  The journey takes you along a road that is lined with high hedges made of Hydrangeas, some of the blue flower heads remained, and you realised that in the spring and summer it must be an incredible sight.

A  look out point provided wonderful views back towards Ponta Delgado, and off to the east.  As we looked out across the island we could hear dogs barking.  We had followed trucks with dogs in the back, and these must be the same dogs being used to hunt. 

The landscape is dominated by small craters known as Picos, these are where eruptions have bubbled up and created the small cones of small volcanoes.  Originally there were two islands here, the centre of Sao Miguel is the youngest part of the island, created later and providing a link between the two large craters

As well as the dogs we saw up to four Buzzards circling below us.  The Buzzard became quite common as the week went on.  They are a sub species Buteo buteo rothschildi, but are known as the Azorean Buzzard, and they are how the islands go their name.  The first Portuguese explorers on reaching the islands, thought the buzzards were goshawks, because they were so tame, and almost came to the had like the explorers own falconry goshawks.  As a result they named the islands after the Portuguese name for the goshawk "Acors".

From the view point we continued the drive up the side of the crater.  The weather changed rapidly from sunshine to low cloud.  The landscape was incredibly green with lush grass and moss covering almost everything, and alongside the road more hydrangea and other heavy leaved plants.

We stopped at a trail, that led to a large lake that was formed by one of the many craters, this was known as Lagoa Canario.  The short trail took us through feathery pine trees, and then into the open to view the lake.  The green of the surrounding trees reflecting in the still water, it was quiet with only the wind blowing and the clouds moving quickly across the tops of the trees.

From the lake we walked down a trail and into the woods.  Along the path there was plenty of sign of land slip.  The side of the valley were very steep, and covered in very thick damp moss.  With the soil very thin, and based on volcanic rock, the weight of the vegetation would pull the side of the valley down leaving just bare rock.

All along the trail we could hear goldcrests calling, and every so often we would flush a Grey Wagtail.  It wasn't very clear where the path was going, but we always thought that at the next turn there would be something.  Finally we came out on to a road, where there was an overlook away to the north, and we had a first view of Setes Cidades, and the two lakes in the valley.  The main lake here is Lagoa Azure, "the Blue Lake".

To get back we had to retrace our steps.  Along the main path to the car more goldcrests flitted about in the hedge.  We soon became aware that along with the Grey Wagtails these were a very common bird on the island, and that they were quite confiding, but electric quick as they made their way through the trees.  More hydrangea hedges stretched out across the field, still providing an indication of the flowers that would be about in the spring.

We now drove around to the Visti Du Rei, "The Kings View" to look down on Setes Cidades, and the two lakes in the volcano crater.  The larger lake at the top is Lagoa Azure, the blue lake, and the lower lake, lagoa Verde, the green lake.  At certain times and in certain light the water takes on these colours, you could just about make the distinction today.

Leaving the view point, we took the road down into the crater, and made our way through the village of Setes Cidades, and then back up out of the crater the other side, and down towards the village of Mosteiros.  We stopped at an old whale watching look out point, and looking to the north we could see the village close to the sea.

From the look out we drove down to the village following a truck with dogs in the back, and two dead rabbits hanging from the bars, so we now knew what the dogs were hunting.  Mosteiros was a quiet village by the sea, the light was very atmospheric, and out in the the bay the dark islands and stacks contrasted with the calm grey waters of the bay.

We completed the rest of the tour in differing weather conditions, the clouds would move in from the south, and there would be the odd shower, and then we would be back into sunshine. 

The next day the whale watching trip was cancelled once again, and the prognosis was that the trips would be cancelled for the next two days, however worse news was that Helen had been taken ill overnight.  As a result we headed out in the car in the afternoon.  The weather was lousy with rain and low cloud, and for the majority of the journey we could see a thing, the fog was so thick.  For some unknown reason we decided to follow the bullfinch route, and only succeeded in getting lost, and passing the same road construction site twice, and a road sweeper four times.  As a result we headed back to the hotel.

The next day, Tuesday, Helen was feeling a little better, but the weather wasn't.  With high winds and rain we decided once again to explore the island to see if we could find better weather, something that is possible on this rock in the Atlantic.  After finally getting out of the car park we headed west to Mosteiros again, and finally stopped to watch the sea crashing onto the rocks.

After this photograph was take we drove down to get closer to the rocks, parking on the corner in the pull off area.  Minutes after stopping we were shocked to see a truck narrowly miss us, skid and tip over depositing a load of breeze blocks onto the path literally feet from our car.  The driver was alright, but we decided it was time, to retire to the safety of Ponta Delgado for the rest of the day.

Wednesday started brighter, with blue skies and sunshine, but still with the very strong wind.  We decided to visit the lakes around Furnas, and as we took the southern coast road we could see that the sea was very rough.  Pausing at San Roque, the waves could be seen pounding the beach and rocks.

Moving on, after a few miles we turned inland and started the ascent up the crater towards Lagoa Fogo or lake of fire.  This basin is actually the most recent crater on the island, evolving between 30,000 and 12,000 years ago, with the most recent eruption in 1563.  Today though the silent lake reveals nothing of its violent past.  The road winds up to several view points where you can take in the whole lake, and appreciate the steepness of the crater sides.

Cutting through the silence of the mountains were the calls of the Azorean Yellow-legged Herring Gulls.  They could be seen flying around the face of the crater sides, providing a similar habitat to sea cliffs that the gull would normally use.

The road then takes us down the other side of the crater towards the north.  About half way down we stopped to visit a waterfall that is a popular place with the locals as the water is constantly warm.  The valley area was being developed with buildings, and it did not look as picturesque as described in the guide books.  It was though very lush with vegetation, and the steam from the warm water could be seen rising through the ferns.  In several places the water could be seen boiling through the ground, forming small craters, giving some idea of how the massive volcano craters were formed.  Wildlife was very sparse, we did hear frogs calling, and as were everywhere else there were lots of Grey Wagtails.

Our next stop was Ribeira Grande, a village named after the river that flows through and out into the sea.  We walked along the river to the beach, and once again was mesmerised by the waves coming onto the beach.

As we watched the surfers, we were also given some nice views of a Little Egret that flew past, and then ran around fishing in the surf.

On the beach in front of us there was also a small group of Sanderlings feeding on the beach and running around just in front of the surf as the waves rolled in.

Small yellow butterflies could be seen all around any area of grass.  These were Clouded Yellows, and there were both male and females, the males seeking out the females, and dueling with other males in their effort to isolate a female.

From Riberia Grande we headed back up into the hills, the road taking us through more Plain Tree lined avenues, and hydrangea hedgerows.  At yet another view point we had some wonderful views across the north coast, and back inland, the sun picking out the lush vegetation that covers the rolling hill sides.

Our next stop was the view point at the top of Pico do Ferro (Iron Mountain).  It looks out across Lagoa Furnas and the Furnas valley.

Looking down we could see the steam rising out of the Caldeiras das Furnas, both in the town of Furnas, and by the side of the lake.  After a stop off in Furnas for lunch we headed to the lake.  It was now overcast, and it was also drizzling with rain.  We took a short walk around the area of the picnic site.  This is another popular place with locals, who come to cook stews in the boiling waters of the calderas.  All along the shore of the lake you could see steam rising from bubbling pools of mud.

As we left the lake and set off for the main road to take us back to Ponta Delgado, looking back we saw a waterfall that was cascading down from the mountain.  The water was a yellowy brown, which made it stand out from the vegetation.  As I took this photograph I was alerted to a group of three wigeon calling from the middle of the lake.

Back in Ponta Delgado the weather was better, and later in the evening we received a call to say there was a chance the whale watching trip could be on in the morning.

On Thursday morning it was sunny and clear, with a slight breeze but no where as strong as previous days.  I went early to the old harbour, and waited to see if the boat was going out.  The companies work with whale spotters based at look out points along the coast.  These are usually old whalers that have retained the skill, and put it to use for tourism following the ceasing of whaling in the late seventies.  The boats are reliant on the spotters to direct them to the whales, so if they can't see anything, they don't go.  The company was hopeful the sea would be better at a different site, so we waited, but when the news came that they could only see a pod of dolphins I decided not to bother and went back to the hotel.  I had come to see Sperm Whale, unfortunately they had not been seen for over ten days.  At this time of year it is only the big bull whales around and they can dive for over an hour, making it hard to see them.

Back at the hotel we decided to take the road we didn't see when we set off on Tuesday.  We stopped at a viewpoint where there was a whale spotter.  He pointed out a pod of dolphin that were being followed by two boats.  There was no sign of any whales.

We returned once again to Mosteiros and decided to walk this time along the coast road, the islands off the bay were a little clearer now, and gulls could be seen on the rocks.

. 
We walked around to the scene of the accident to find that it had all been cleared up, then after a coffee stop we made our way back.  As we approached a ruined building I noticed a white bird fly down onto a wall, as I picked it up I realised it was Snow Bunting, which was a big surprise, but apparently not rare on the island.  It proved to be a very confiding bird, allowing me to get very close, and top get some lovely shots of a very pretty bird.

We walked back around the bay, watching snorkelers with spear guns fishing in the water off the rocks.  A pair of Azorean Yellow-legged Gulls, posed very nicely on the black rock showing the bright yellow legs, and the flatter shaped head that distinguishes it from the main herring gull species.

From Mosteiros we made our way back to the hotel, by taking the route through Setes Cidades in the opposite direction of that which we had taken on Sunday.  Back at the hotel, after rescuing two cruise passengers from the car park, we spend the rest of the afternoon people watching in a bar on the sea front.

Friday, once again started as a beautiful day, and with Helen feeling better enough to attempt a walk we headed back to Lagoa Furnas.  This time we made our way straight there and it was very quiet when we arrived in the car park.  The first thing we noticed was the fact that where there had been bubbling pools the previous day, they were now gone, and secondly looking up the side of the mountain, there was no waterfall.  Did it get turned on and off?

We set off to walk around the lake in blue skies and sunshine, but as was turning out to be the usual pattern very quckly cloud spilled across the crater and the lake.  We went through an area of young sapling trees and grasses, and came across a small flock of Common Waxbills.  At first I wondered what they were, but since I have found out that they have established themselves from escaped cage birds, and are common around the lake.

The calls of buzzards could be heard echoing around the crater, and I finally managed to get ta photo of one of the iconic birds of the Azores

As we walked along the path that was surrounded on both sides by trees and plants we heard and saw goldcrests and chaffinches calling.  The Chaffinches were much darker than the British bird, and the breast was not as pink, but the back a lot deeper blue grey.  You could see it was a chaffinch, but it was stuck between the male and female.  Grey Wagtails were also very conspicuous, and would fly up from the little streams that ran down from the rocks into the lake.  Along with the buzzard the grey wagtail was everywhere on the island.  As you turned a corner on the road one would flush from the side.  By the lake I finally managed to get some pictures.

The cloud was now beginning to take over, but as we reached the furthest point of the lake on this walk, looking back the water was reflecting nicely what little amount of blue sky remained.

The trees were shedding leaves, but not at the same pace as they probably were in the UK.  One thing about both the conifers and the deciduous trees on the island is that they are huge.  This probably to do with the warm , wet climate just like the cloud forests of the north west pacific.  Looking up the trees looked like pictures of lungs with the many branches reaching out into the sky, essential to the well being of the island.

The path now took us into a clearing surrounded by more tall trees, and as we walked through it we saw bats flying around.  In total there were three, these were Day-flying Bats, and are the only true mammal found on the island.  Of course there are dogs, cats rats and mice, but these came in via humans.  The bats must have made their own way here, and unusually hunt during the day.  The three we watched flew around the trees, and were very difficult to photograph this was the best shot I managed to get.

The walk then followed the road back to the car park.  In the reeds and bushes by the water there were more small flocks of waxbills.

A little further on I finally managed to get a Goldcrest to stay still long enough for a photograph.  The lichen on the trees in this shot was common all over the trees around the lake.

I had seen reports of two Ring-necked Ducks on the lake earlier in the week, but when we arrived there was nothing on the water.  As I approached the car park I noticed two ducks making their way from the edge of the water out towards a group of Coot.  Looking closer I could see that they were female Ring-necked Ducks.

We left the lake and headed away from Furnas.  The road were were driving on we had come down on last Monday in thick fog, today the cloud was clearing again, and the sun finally came out as we stopped in Povoacao.  After lunch we made our way up the side of the Serra da Tronqueira.  Ahead of us there was cloud hanging on the tops of the mountains, and behind us was clear blue skies and sunshine.  The result of this combination was a rainbow stretching across the valley.


We were attempting to drive the route we had taken in the fog on Monday, but we decided to take a detour down to Faial da Terra.  This was a very steep drive down to the sea, and then through a very quiet village, taking the road back out again to pick up the main road we were treated to an even greater spectacle of a rainbow arching across the fields, for once you could see both ends, and we were tempted to look for that pot of gold.  With lush greens of the valley, and the blue of the sky, it really looked wonderful.

Back on the main road we headed for Nordeste, but very soon cam e across a road block.  Ignoring it as you do we set off only to come across several huge land slips, that had to have happened since Monday.  In places only one lane was open, and workers were clearing the soil that was covering the road.  At the last slide we actually drove through on mud.  At Nordeste it looked no different to the scene we found last Monday.  It was low cloud mist and drizzle, and this was very much the case as we drove the northern roads of the island.  As we came back down into Ponta Delgado the sun returned, and in the evening we were treated to a lovely sunset from the roof of the hotel.

Our flight to Lisbon on Saturday morning was early in the morning, and as usual the day started clear and sunny.  As the plane took off and headed away to the east I was able to get some aerial shots of the island that captures the small picos and craters that make up the middle section, and some lovely views of Lagao Fogo, and Furnas.  As usual the north coast is already covered in cloud and mist.

Looking West towards Ponta Delgardo

Lagoa Fogo

Lagoa Furnas and the Furnas valley.

It had been a very eventful week, and unfortunately we were not able to whale watch due to the weather.  But I have enjoyed the island, and it is truly a very beautiful place.  We would like to come again, maybe not for a week, and definitely in the spring, when for sure the plants and flowers must be spectacular.