Saturday, 1 September 2018

5th August - Gulfo Dulce, Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica

When you don't have any windows, just a net around the bed, and mesh to keep the insects out its hard not to be awake before dawn.  The Howler monkeys start first, then are followed by the parrots, with of course, the macaws being the loudest.  But it is worth it, because being up before dawn allows you to see the beautiful changes in the landscape as the sun comes up below the horizon and then finally edging above it to send the lovely golden light across the ocean.



Highlighting the huge cumulo-nimbus clouds way out in the Pacific Ocean


Finally that golden light


In the Cecropia tree, the Yellow-throated Toucan turned up and started to take the fruits in the tree.



And it made a chance to see it in sunlight, and without the white sky behind it.



A red-crowned Woodpecker to was enjoying the sunshine.



Despite the early hour the butterflies were about and the verbena was the main attraction, this is a Tiger Longwing.



Then in the trees at he back of our bungalow, a pair of Scarlet Macaws turned up to feed on the fruit.



At first look it looks like there is hardly any fruit in the tree, but the macaws have no difficulty in finding them.



The Cecropia is like a magnet to the birds, a male Chere's Tanager



The sloth was still there tucked away at the top of the branches under the leaves.

We left for breakfast, passing under the Scarlet Macaws, who were dropping the skins of the fruit as they peeled them.

As we waited to leave for Puerto Jimenez a Green and Black Poison Dart Frog was on the floor in the reception area.



As we drove along the track from Lapa Rios to Puerto Jimenez, a Roadside Hawk was sitting on one of the fence posts.




After being shook up along the road to Puerto Jimenez we finally made tarmac and a smooth ride.  With today being a Sunday, the main streets were quiet.  We headed past the airstrip, and then around to the beach, and then on to a jetty where many people were fishing.  We walked down to the end of the jetty, and boarded our boat, a small boat, about 30 foot long, and met our captain and guide.  We were the only persons, so we had it all to ourselves.  The ocean was like a mill pond, calm and still and the most wonderful colour blue, all was in place for the perfect morning.




The Gulfo Dulce is a large sheltered bay, surrounded by the Osa Peniinsula to the south west, and the Costa Rica mainland to the north east.  The name Dulce is the Spanish word used for freshwater, and while the water isn’t fresh it is fed by many rivers that flow the short distance from the Osa Peninsula and the surrounding mountains.  As the warm air comes off the Pacific Ocean it rises over the mountain range and huge clouds form and rain falls feeding the streams and rivers that ultimately flow into the gulf.


We were cruising along the southern side of the gulf, passing many mangrove swamps that had grown where the rivers flow into the sea.



Last year we had taken a trip to Cano Island from Uvita in a similar sized boat, the trip had been a real challenge, the ocean was very rough with a huge swell that was as a result of a close pass of Tropical Storm Harvey through Central America.  We said then we would not go out in a boat like that whale watching, but here we are today.  The weather conditions though were a lot different today.



The first stop was for a very brief view of a turtle, it diving as the boat’s engine slowed down.  As is the way along the Pacific coast there were huge tree trunks in the water, and at first it was what I thought I had seen, but then it appeared again, and I could clearly see there was a dorsal fin on the tree trunk.  As we edge closer there was a blow followed by a smaller one, and in front of us was a female Humpback and calf.


The size of the boat meant for the first time in all our whale watching experiences we could get quite close, and appreciate the size of the animal.



They would stay up , the young whale taking time to breathe, and then would dive together, the young one coming up before the female.


Then we had the most amazing experience.  The young whale dived towards us, and we could see about a couple of metres below us the white pectoral fins, and the head of the whale on its side, presumably looking at us.  We were so taken by this we completely forgot the opportunity to take a photograph, the memory though will always remain.

The female then came up on the other side of the boat with that wonderful sound as she blows out on breaking through the surface.


As is always the case our captain was in contact with other boats, and on the northern side of the gulf there were reports of more Humpbacks, and a pod of dolphins.  We were given the choice, do we stay with the female and calf, or do we head across the water to catch with the others.  There was no decision to be made, and we set of at full speed across the blue water.

About half way I noticed a tree trunk once again, but this time it was one, and the interest was what was sitting on it.


Brown Boobys.  Lat year we had seen on a piece of wood.  Because of the water conditions I had the camera tucked away in a dry bag, and struggled to get it out, only for the bird to fly off when I did.  This time I could take my time as we drifted past.


The Brown Booby is a widespread breeder throughout the neotropics, breeding on small islands in the Caribbean, and Pacific coast of Central America.  While the adult birds stay close to these colonies the young will disperse around the nearby waters.


It is likely that these are immature birds doing exactly that, the adult birds having a clear white belly.


There was a distinct lack of birds throughout the trip, other than a single frigatebird close to Puerto Jimenez, these boobys being the only birds seen.

It took us about twenty minutes to cross to the northern side.  This shore was large mountains covered with thick tropical rain forest that come down all the way to the water’s edge.  It didn’t take long to come across the whales, a huge adult breaking the surface in front of us.


Then a female and calf once again.


It became clear that there were at least four adult Humpbacks here, possible three males and a single female, and of course a young calf.  This was possibly the same five we had seen from Lapa Rios on our first day, and it soon became clear that the males were still intent on pursuing the female and fighting each other.



The adult whales would break the surface at speed, as if pursuing the other males or chasing the female.  The female would always manage to keep herself between the males and the young calf.

Every so often 30 tonnes of whale would break the surface at speed, and you suddenly became aware of the size of the boat you were sitting in.



Here two males in pursuit of either the female or to ward off the other males.


Then some really frantic action.  What could only be a male broke the surface alongside the female and was thrashing the pectoral fins around.  Here you can see the male pushing close to the female as she breaks the surface.  Remember this is like an iceberg, there is a huge amount of whale below the surface!


Here the female looks to dive while the male is just below the surface, the white pectoral fin lying on the surface of the water to the left of the diving whale.


With the male to the left under the surface, the female is starting to dive, while the calf on her right is also blowing before diving with her


With the female diving the male surfaces very close to us, I was hoping we might see the eye but it stayed under water.


The female surfaces once more with the calf away to the right


It all then went quiet. And we waited to see where they would turn up.  Then one whale appeared blew a couple of times then arched the back and we knew this was going to be a deep dive.


And the arched back ended up with the one and only sight of a fluke today.


We waited to see if there would be any more action, but it remained quiet.  How can over 150 tonnes of whale just disappear?

When it was clear that they had gone we decided to go after dolphins.  There are two species of dolphin seen in the gulf, the Tropical Spotted that are usually seen in pods of over fifty individuals, and the Bottlenose Dolphin.  Our guide and captain were looking out for the Spotted Dolphins, but after a considerable amount of time searching it was clear they were not about.  We declined the offer of a trip to the beach and preferred to continue searching.

The weather was changing, the blue skies and clam seas had been replaced with increasing clouds and a swell.  We headed over toward the northern area of the gulf, around the Piedras Blancas National Park and around the mouth of one of the larger rivers to flow into the sea.  We could see the sediment flowing out into the gulf.  Here there were three Bottlenose Dolphins, coming here to hunt as with the tide now falling, the fish were being pushed back into the deeper waters.


The dolphins would swim fast through the water with their dorsal fins well above the surface


Bottlenose dolphins are the commonest members of the oceanic dolphins, being found in all waters other than the Arctic and Antarctic.  These are the dolphin species every one associates with dolphins

Clearly aware of us they would push their heads out of the water to look at us looking at them.



Coming in closely, with that friendly face with the permanent smile that is so endearing to human beings


It looks as if this one has had some sort of injury on its head, possibly an interaction with a propeller?


They stayed with us around the boat until, like the whales, they arched the back and dived showing the tail fluke, and a deep dive that took them well away from us


By now it was close to midday, and the sea was now showing white caps, something we would not have thought possible three hours ago when the surface of the water was like a mill pond.  We sped across the water heading back to Puerto Jimenez, after a very successful trip

We were picked up by our driver and headed back along the gravel track to Lapa Rios.  At about hallway we came across another 4x4 by the side of the road.  There were two Tropical Screech Owls in the tree above, roosting under leaves on a horizontal branch.  They were difficult o locate, but the laser of the other driver helped.  Here a record shot.


As we approached the stream where yesterday we had been birding a Green Kingfisher flew up to a post.  We were able to pull alongside and with the car acting as a hide had superb views.



Once back at Lapa Rios we had lunch.  The cloud had built up and this changed our plans for the afternoon, gone was the opportunity to spend time by the pool so we decided on reading on our own personal deck.

Walking back the Leaf Cutter Ants were pouring across the path.  They are not around first thing in the morning, and compared with the other animals are rather late risers, but in the afternoon they are totally industrious, carry leaves more than their own size.


While we were on the deck the Yellow-throated Toucan appeared once again in the Cecropia tree.  The feeding behaviour is interesting to watch.  The Toucan will land in a branch, and then slowly turn its head to look up into the branches.  This may involve moving around to get a better view with one eye.  Once the right fruit has been selected it is delicately plucked and held at the end of the beak.  It is then thrown up.


And the bill thrown back to swallow the fruit in one


Some great views this afternoon


The sloth was about but keeping out of sight.  Once again as the light started to fade the birds became active as they looked to feed before going to roost.  In the Cecropia tree a male Blue Dacis appeared.


And one of the other resident woodpeckers, the Golden-naped Woodpecker


Like first thing this morning the Scarlet Macaws were about late in the afternoon.  Signalling their arrival with the loud calls pairs would fly past.


And then these three in almost perfect symmetry


Absolutely wonderful to see these beautiful birds fly past, the beauty only being let down by the harshness of the accompanying calls.

As we walked down to the restaurant for drinks and dinner there was a red glow in the sky away to the west the cloud having lifted just after sunset.


Yet another wonderful day, we have gone from some of the smallest birds, the Volcano Hummingbird once again to one of the largest mammals on the planet, the Humpback whale, and with it some amazing behaviour close up.  Tomorrow we must leave this incredible place, we have a transfer to our last destination late in the morning so there is plenty of time to continue our interaction with the wildlife here, I am sure we will be up early with the sunrise once again.

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