Monday 3 September 2018

6th August - Lapa Rios to Puerto Jimenez, Costa Rica

I lay awake in bed at just before 5.00 am, the light was slowly increasing.  The Howler Monkeys had been up for some time.  The sounds were all around me, the first birds being the Scarlet Macaws, slowly the light increased and there was definition in the clouds despite the view through the mesh.



Scarlet Macaws then flew into the tree right outside the bed, and could be seen, but only as silhouettes, moving through the branches searching for breakfast.  Finally they flew off, but then circled back to the tree where they were feeding yesterday.

Outside the sun was now breaking through the clouds on the horizon, the third spectacular sunrise of our stay here.



We were up now, and the cecropia tree continued to attract the birds, this time a male Green Honeyeater.



Looking out across the trees I noticed two distant creamy heads.  With binoculars I could see that they were Yellow-headed Caracaras.  Then they both flew, heading towards us, with one settling in a tree much closer to the deck.  These caracaras are smaller than the Crested Caracara we saw yesterday on the road.



Another bird settling in the tree was a Cherrie's or Scarlet-rumped Tanager.



Found on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica they were classified for many years as a sub species of Passerini's Tanager, but was given species status in 1997.  It feeds on insects and fruit, and forms social breeding groups.



Leaving for breakfast we past a vivid blue butterfly, but when it settled the blue disappeared, but as I moved around it the colour returned with the light. Once again I have not been able to identify it.



While sitting at breakfast here was activity in the trees around the deck area, a lot of shaking branches and then the appearance of a troop of Squirrel Monkeys.



Once again the cecropia tree providing food, and the main attraction for the monkeys.



Squirrel monkeys are New World monkeys and found in the canopies of Central and South America.  The Central American Squirrel Monkey is threatened, listed as vulnerable.  The monkeys are diurnal, and live in the tree canopy.  Unlike other new world monkeys, their tail is not used as a climbing tool, but more as a balancing pole.



They live in multi male and female groups, and troop sizes have been known to reach as many as 500 individuals, but within these troops smaller groups develop.



They are omnivorous, eating fruits insects eggs and small birds.  Being small they are vulnerable to predators, snakes, eagles and small cats



The group made their way through the trees, and in places leaping down drops of up to three to four metres, landing in the branches.





The females are solely responsible for bringing up the young, the baby clinging to its mother until it is weaned after about four months.



They gradually worked their way around the deck and then disappearing into the trees and away, many of the guests were watching, but it was as much the monkeys watching us too.



While at Manuel Antonio the guide told us that the Roadside Hawk will follow Squirrel Monkeys as they will disturb insects and birds from the canopy.  It was then no surprise to see one appear in the branches of the trees just after the monkeys moved on.



The monkeys had clearly done their job as the hawk was holding a dragonfly down with its talons, and then pulling it apart.



We made our way back to the bungalow after breakfast, we had time, but you can't settle, there were bags to pack, but that wouldn't take long.  So we sat on the deck for awhile and took in the view for one more time.



It was the time of the morning when the butterflies were busy, and once again I found a new butterfly that I couldn't identify.  This has the feel of an Emperor type, at least a member of the Nymphalidae family.



As the clock moved around to the time when we were about to leave the bungalow the sloth began to move.  It had been present all the time we had been here, and as we prepared to leave it started to move down the main trunk of the tree.



It just sat there, head pointed towards us and I would like to think it was watching uos leave, but the yes were tightly shut!

We moved on, and met our driver who would take us the 15 km ride down the gravel, pot holed track to Puerto Jimenez.  We were pleased to see that it was the driver we had come across yesterday pointing out the Tropical Screech Owls, hopefully we would get another chance to see them.

As we wound our way down the track from the hotel, he asked if we would like to see a Common Potoo.  Lets just say he didn't ask twice.  We pulled over, and peered through a gap in the bamboo by the side of the road.  It wasn't obvious at first, but as I moved to get a better view I saw it.  At the top of a dead tree, bolt upright with the head pointing upwards and just the glimpse of an orange eye.


Similar to the nightjars, but where the nightjars will settle horizontally the Common Potoo will perch on high upward pointing limbs of tree, resting totally immobile by day.


As we watched the bird moved its head slightly revealing its large eye, the iris a bright yellow with a very wide inky black pupil.


The Common Potoo is one of four similar species, the Great, Long-tailed and Northern Potoo.  All are nocturnal birds and similar in appearance.  The Common Potoo is medium sized in comparison.

They forage for insects at night by waiting on a popular perch for insects to pass, they fly out and catch them with their wide mouth.


They have small hooked bills with a very wide gape and mouth. Their wings and tails are long, which allows high manoeuvrability while in flight. All potoos are cryptically patterned and spend most of their daylight hours imitating stumps or stubs of tree branches. The Common Potoo has a colour ranging from overall greyish to dark brown, finely marbled and etched with black and buff. This pattern matches the bark of the trees in which it perches, and as a result the potoo resembles the stub of a branch. 

This one is adopting an alert upward position because it knows we are watching it and it I a threat response.  Normally they would sit more relaxed with the bill pointing out not up.


Apparently the bird is regular here, and well known to the guides.

As we approached the stream the green Kingfisher appeared once again.  It settle on a post and quickly dived, coming up with what looked like a fish but on closer inspection looked more like a leaf.  Any way it discarded the catch and then posed on the fence wire


This was becoming an unexpected bonus, and not expected today.  The driver was quite happy for us to stop to see the Screech Owls again, and also spoke of a Crested Owl site.  A little further along he slowed down for a Yellow-headed Caracara having a dust bath in the middle of the road.


Definitely not something you expect to see a raptor doing, let alone in the middle of the road.


The road passes through a village and open farmland, and the driver then tells us that usually there are a pair of White-tailed Kits present in a distant tree, but this morning it was empty.  But as we approached you could see a bird of prey flying towards the tree, and we slowed up as it flew up into the said tree.


It was holding something in its talons, and calling loudly.

White-tailed Kites are birds of prey of open habitats, they live in areas of open fields marshes and savanna and can usually be seen hovering in search of prey.  They feed mostly on rodents, but will also take birds and reptiles.


They are all white below, with a pale grey upper parts contrasting with pale black coverts and eye patches.  The iris is a bright red.

Another bird, presumably its mate and the reason for the calling appeared flying low over the field and then up into the same tree, and returned the calling.


We left both birds sitting in the tree.


So far so good, two lifers on the short trip to Puerto Jimenez.

Next was the Tropical Screech Owls.  They were in a tree hanging over the road next to a horse stables.  We pulled over and searched the branch we had seen them in yesterday.  They were not in the same spot, and were a little more visible than yesterday huddled up together.


This species is one of the commonest Screech Owls found in Central and South America.  Found from Costa Rica south through much of the lowland of South America.  Very much nocturnal birds they become active around dusk, capturing prey such as insects, beetles, small frogs and lizards, earthworms and snakes from the branches or on the ground.

What you can't see here are the characteristic ear tufts, but the black rim around the facial disc, and the herring bone pattern on breast is visible.

We continued on, crossing more decrepit bridges, and circling around the huge pot holes.  As we got close to the town we stopped under a huge oak tree.  This was the site for the Crested Owl, it had been seen earlier so there was every chance it was still there.  We scanned to top of the canopy in search of an owl about the same size as an owl we were familiar with, a Short-eared Owl.

It took a while, in which time we did see a Lineated Woodpecker in amongst the branches


Our driver then found the owl right at the top of the tree and looking down on us.


A medium sized owl with large prominent ear tufts and distinctive white eyebrows.  There are two colour morphs, this one being the chocolate-brown morph.  The head and breast is a dark chocolate brown, with a dark rim around the facial disc which is hardly visible.  What you can't see here are the upper parts that are chocolate brown, while the breast and underparts are a buff colour.  All the flight feathers are barred light and dark, and the wing coverts and outer primaries have white dots, just visible here

A definite nocturnal hunter, roost during the day amongst thick vegetation, we were really lucky to be able to see this one.


Not a bad forty five minutes, three new birds and some great views of some special ones too.

As we drove into Puerto Jimenez we felt really good, and looking forward to reaching our final destination this trip, Uvita and the Kura Design Villas.  We had stayed there last year and immediately fell in love with the place.  Our stay this time would only be two night, but we had planned this as the final relaxation before heading back to the United Kingdom.

Our pick up was waiting and maybe when we saw the car we should have been concerned about the journey ahead.  But while we didn't like it we bundled in, and were advised that it would take us about two and a half hours to get to Uvita and the pick up location for Kura.

As we set off the roads were quiet and away to the south the skies were very black.  Sure enough we quickly encountered some heavy rain, but managed to drive in and out of it.  The phone kept ringing, and our driver was having several long conversations.  We reached the main highway, our driver advising us that here you can turn right for Panama, but we would turn left and head north.

Our route to Uvita would follow this road, taking us over the Rio Grande at Palmar Norte, but as we got close to the bridge crossing the traffic drew to a halt.  More telephone calls, and conversations with drivers who had turned around, the upshot of which was apparently the bridge has been blocked by protestors in support of the indigenous people of Costa Rica.  This was the main trade route into Panama and the ports into the Pacific and Caribbean, a blockade here would cause chaos quickly, and it seems to be a common occurrence.  The blockade was due to end the following day so we had no alternative but to turn around and take a three and a half hour diversion. 

This meant heading south towards Panama, and then turning north and up over the mountains at Cd Neilly.  By now we were encountering torrential rain, and a road that wound its way up to 1500 metres with hairpin bends and switchback, with trucks in front and coming down towards us.  At one point I received a text from Vodafone "welcome to Panama" we laughed!

From the summit we headed north to San Vito, then north west to Paso Real where we turned left and headed west along the banks of the Rio Grande to arrive finally at Palmar Norte, where the trucks and cars were backed up for miles to head south.  From Palmar Norte to Uvita was just over an hour and we finally turned up at the pick up lace around 18.00.  We were due to arrive at 14.30, we had been travelling since leaving Lapa Rios for seven hours.

Last year we had travelled in a Toyota Hiace from Banos del Toro to Monteverde, and had to turn back because we did not have our bags, today we were in a Toyota Hiace.  The y are tourist buses but have very uncomfortable seats, the windows are too low to see out of, and they are definitely not the kind of tourist bus to travel, it can't be a coincidence!

Our driver unloaded our bags, and drove off leaving us to wait for the pick up from Kura.  Fortunately we  did not have to wait too long, and as the car pulled in we were greeted with a familiar face, Manuel, and all the strain of the journey vanished as we chatted as we drove up the side of the mountain to the property.

Everything was as it should be, our room was amazing, the food as we remembered it, and the staff so welcoming.  We had dinner and an early night looking forward to spending a relaxing day tomorrow.

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