Before setting off I spent some time walking around the old Marina. Just outside the hotel a huge ship was hauled out in dry dock, it was in for repainting, and was going through some preparatory work. The bow of the ship loomed large outside the hotel reception where they told me that it is a normal occurrence, the ships just seem to arrive silently, and go in the same way.
I walked out to the marina where there were many whale watching businesses setting up for the day, looking back you can see the hotel, a grey building above the blue ones by the water.
We were on the road by 8.30, heading around the city on its ring road before heading out on to route one signposted to the township of Vik. Just outside the city the weather changed, something we would have to accept, as it seems it happens all the time, a climb uphill was followed by a steep descent all the way down to the small town of Selfoss.
We stopped in Selfoss for a coffee and croissant which turned out to be a lovely surprise. Back on the road we were now travelling on a familiar landscape, looking across the plain under clearing skies the volcano Eyjafjallajokull cap could be seen
Our next stop was to be at the Selijandfoss waterfalls. Once again payment was required for the car park, and there was a visitor centre. It soon became clear that the two were linked, you had to pay for parking if there was a centre present.
There are a collection of waterfalls here, the main one being the Selijand river that falls 60 metres, after emerging from beneath the Eyjafjallajokull ice cap.
The ridge from which the waterfall cascades from used to form the coastline of Iceland. Today lowlands stretch out to the sea.
The fall of water is narrow, but it is possible to walk behind the fall, which we decided not to do as you get very wet from the permanent mist from the falls.
About 500 metres north of Selijandfoss is another waterfall, Glujfraubui. We didn't visit this one last time. The waterfall is hidden behind another rock face, and it is possible to walk through....and get wet......again.....we didn't!
As is seemingly the case, the cliff faces were populated by many Fulmar, they could be seen soaring along the edge of the cliff and out over our heads.
Walking back the many streams spawned by the waterfall were lined with yellow marigolds, the flowers reflecting in the inky black water.
From a distance Selijandfoss looks quite spectacular
And before we left I took the chance to focus on the falling white water contrasting against the black of the cliff rocks.
Our next stop was to be Skogar, and Skogafoss a waterfall that has served me well. I have a large photograph of the falling water with a fulmar flying through it taken in 2014. This photograph won me photo of the week on the Bird Guides web site, mu one and only success.
There was no visitor centre, and therefor no parking fees as we pulled into the busy car park. A series of steps leads up the side of the falls to an observation platform that looks down on the falling water. As we climbed the steps we had views out toward the lowlands and the distant sea.
It was a bit of a climb (527 steps to be more accurate!), but worth it when we reached the top. The waterfall is 25 metres wide with a drop of 62 metres, and is one of up to 20 waterfalls on the Skoga river, but definitely the most spectacular
The white dots visible here were nesting Fulmar.
Fulmar were soaring around the cliffs and flying across the waterfall and its spray. We had not climbed the steps to the observation platform on the last trip, so this was an opportunity to try and capture a different view of the Fulmar.
They would fly out and circle around making it easy to follow them, but focus as always was a challenge. They would fly up to a mate on the cliff, and make to settle only to fall back and fly around again.
What is not certain is whether or not they are using the spray to bathe, or just enjoying the uplift from the force of the falling water.
It becomes obsessive trying for that perfect shot. These two with the falling spray behind them.
And here with the green background.
When one Fulmar did eventually land next to its mate on the cliff it was greeted with open mouth and squawks.
A pathway leads alongside the river and you can walk over the plateau, we didn't but continued to take in the majesty of the scenery.
Here you can see a hint of blue in the glacial meltwater tumbling over the ledge
We set off back down the steps, which while not being as exhausting as the trip up, was probably a little more concerning as you had to avoid those coming up which meant releasing the one hand rail and standing on wobbly platforms and steps. From the top there was the distant view of the sea arch at Dyrholaey.
We walked around the view Skogafoss from the base. Its grandeur just as huge from the bottom as it is from the top.
From here the Fulmar still soar across the face of the falling water and I couldn't resist recreating the photograph of five years ago.
And finally a close up of the patterns created by the water as it falls those 62 metres.
Our next stop was the short drive to Dyrholaey, a rocky plateau that rises from the low plains and consists of inky black beaches, sea stacks and a huge sea arch, the same arch we had seen from the top of Skogafoss. The area was in fact an island, and Dyrholaey literally means "the hill island with the door hole".
The road winds around the rocks and finally ends up at a car park with the most impressive toilet block I have ever seen, and when you go to use it you understand why IKr 200 (£1.30) to get in!
However before spend the fortune I walked over to where a couple of bird watchers were photographing something. It turned out to be a Whimbrel that was perched nicely on a rock in the grass.
Disappointingly the beach was closed due to falling cliffs and dangerous waves, so unlike last time we were not able to walk the beach to get close to the Puffins, we had to be content with views of the black rocks stretching out to the sea.
Turning back you can follow a path that takes in views across the river plain as the water flows down to the sea, a sea stack called Arnardrangur, or Eagle Rock, in the middle focuses the attention while away in the distance are Reynisdrangur Sea Stacks. The whole area is then completed by the white surf breaking on the black sand.
In more detail Arnardrangur.
And away in the distance the Reynisdrangur stacks, around which is our final destination the township of Vik.
Eider could be seen on the sea, and below us a pair were paddling their way across the black sand, here the drake.
Out to sea there were small rafts of distant Puffins, with one or two Black Guillemots.
Close up on the beach this shows how black the beach really is.
From the car park we decided to walk the coastal path. As we did so Kittiwakes and Arctic Terns flew past, and overhead. A Kittiwake, the lovely black tips to the wings showing well.
The Arctic Terns carrying fish for partners who were sitting on the nests in the grassy shallow areas.
Or just showing off that lovely lazy flight with the long translucent wings and tail streamers
Where there are Arctic Terns it doesn't take long for the skuas to appear, here a dark phase Arctic Skua.
The path leads to the highest part of Dyrholaey, but rather than hike it we returned to the car and drove the gravel path that winds up to the lighthouse. From here there are some wonderful views away to the south.
While the black sands stretch out endlessly complemented with the white surf.
Of course there were Fulmar about, wherever there is a cliff in Iceland you can guarantee they will be present, so of course they have to be photographed, here though the challenge was the exposure against the black sand.
Another skua flew past, this time the large Great Skua.
We walked around to view the dramatic sea arch that is referred to in the name of the site. The arch rises 120 metres above the sea, and as you approach you can hear the calls of mostly Kittiwakes on the ledges and flying below over the sea.
The ledges are also occupied by Guillemots and Razorbills, while in the water more rafts f Puffins can be seen, they prefer to nest in the grass burrows on the top of the cliffs. There are two types of Guillemot found here, the common and Brunnich's, however we were too far away for me to confirm whether there were any Brunnich's present, likelihood is these were all common.
AS we left the cliffs the road passes between two lagoons, last visit there had been Red-necked Phalaropes here but I had not been able to stop. This time I did stop and walked back, but the Phalaropes flew to the other side of the lagoon, so I had to make do with watching the Arctic Terns. They are my favourite, I love the relaxed flight and simple clean lines with the small patches of red in the bill and feet.
As we left the island I paused again to take in the sea stacks at Reynisdrangur, black and ominous, they would be also visible from our stop for the day Vik.
The road winds up then sharply down on to a small town nestling behind the cliffs. There are several house a few shops and cafes and a petrol Station. Our hotel sat underneath the cliffs, and Fulmar were nesting in the cliffs. Pulling into the car park a Redwing sang from one of the light posts.
After checking in we walked around the town getting a coffee in the process. There was though not an awful lot to see. On returning to the hotel two coaches had arrived so we were thankful at having booked a table for dinner.
Tomorrow we enter uncharted territory, we had not been beyond Vik before, this was where our adventure truly starts.
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