After leaving the hotel at Vik we stopped at the shopping mall on the otherside of the road to see if we could get a coffee, but it wasn't open. Before we set off I just had to catch the little church that sat above the town on the cliff top. Our hotel nestled beneath the cliff.
As we left the town of Vik we passed through a colony of Arctic Terns on either side of the road. A little further on and a brown bird in the field could only be a Skua, and Arctic Skua in fact, and there was a pair. I managed to stop and pull over safely in order to get a good view and shot of the closest of the pair, a dark phase bird it watched me closely before flying off to join its mate.
Just before I got back into the car I noticed the tiny white dots buzzing around the distant cliffs, yet another colony of nesting Fulmar.
We finally left Vik behind and headed out into a wide open landscape. This was the Myrdalssandur, and outwash plain located between the rivers of Kudfljot in the east and Mulakvist in the west. To our right was the sea, and to our left the mountains and glaciers that were responsible for creating the plain.
Violent eruptions of the Katla volcano in the 15th century created a 700 square kilometre black sand desert that today following glacial outflows has been occupied by grasses and lupins. Pulling over the scene was expansive.
One stand out feature about 15 kilometres outside of Vik is Hjorleifshofdi, a mountain rising about 220 metres that was once an island.
From the black sand the landscape turns to moss covered lava rocks, the product of eruptions from the Laki volcano. This area is known as the Eldhraun Lava Field and is the biggest lava field in the world. The eruption took place between 1783 to 1784, and is know as one of the most poisonous eruptions in historical times. The eruption was felt in most of Europe with the summer in Great Britain being known as the Sand Summer due to the ash fall out.
Just before crossing the Kudfljot river we came across a large pool.
A pair of Whooper Swans were present and I was able to get out to get some closer views.
As I stood watching the swans I noticed movement below me, several Red-necked Phalarope were feeding along the shoreline of the pool.
There had been a group about yesterday, but had been distant, here they were close and were coming in closer.
They are a very small wader, but spend most of the time swimming on the surface, constantly spinning around and moving about pecking at the surface of the water for insects disturbed on the water.
In an unusual reverse the female is more brightly coloured than the male, and it is the males that spend the time incubating the nest. Here the female with the splendid red neck.
The reversal goes further than just plumage, the females will also compete for nest sites, choosing the male and then defend the relationship from other females. Once the chicks arrive the female leaves the male to raise them on its own.
The Red-necked Phalarope breeds in the Arctic regions of North America and Eurasia, they are migratory and winter at sea in tropical waters.
A beautiful little wader
Our next stop was the small settlement of Kirkjubaejarklaustur. We drove through the small collection of houses and petrol station to the western end of the village where a waterfall cascaded down from the plateau. This is Systrafoss.
At the top of the plateau is a lake where nuns used to nathe giving the falls their name Sisters' Falls.
After coffee at the petrol station we continued on our way. The route was to be dominated by passing through open plain with a distant sea still on our right and the mountains and cliffs on the left.
Where the road came close to the cliffs we came across the waterfall Foss a Sidu.
With views looking down river.
As is the case with the cliffs and plateau it is not long before you come across another waterfall, this one not sign posted, or identified. The only signs were to say there was no access to what was a quite spectacular fall.
And another small one but with a huge fall.
The cliffs continued riddled with green against a black background.
And sheer black cliff faces.
The areas are known as Sandar, flat and open spaces created by glacial bursts that send torrents of water, sweeping away all in their path away. In Iceland they are so impressive thsat the Icelandic word is used internationally to describe this topographic phenomenum.
We were now entering Skeidararsandur, the largest sandur in the world covering 1300 square kilometres,, and area of land very difficult to imagine. The section of ring road that crosses the sandur was the last bit of the national highway to be constructed in 1974, and the main bridge was severely damaged in the nineties due to yet another glacial outflow.
About two thirds of the way across Skeidararsandur you begin to notice the glaciers of Vatnajokull in the distance, and soon they start to loom in front of the car.
We pulled over to take in the views.
A small patch of blue an indicator of what was to come.
A little further along there was a melt pool reflecting the glacier as it snaked its way down through the valley.
As the road winds around through an unfolding landscape of glittering glaciers and dark mountains it is difficult to concentrate on the task at hand, but as we come across a sign for Fjallsarlon I recall a passage from the guide book at about ensuring you visit here. Pulling off the road we drove up to an impressive cafe, but declined its welcome and followed the trail over the scree slopes past alpine flowers and small willow trees sporting pussy willow flowers.
As we came over the top of the path I noticed another small pool reflecting the blue sky and distant snow capped mountain. Pointing this out to Helen she quickly told me I need to look to my left.....Wow!
Icebergs had calved off the Fjallsarlon glaciers into the glacial lagoon providing a scene of serene beauty. The glacier originates from the Vatnajokull ice cap.
We were able to walk down to the edge of the lagoon to get a different perspective on the ice. Its hide to realise that you only see a small amount of the actual ice berg.
Walking around the lagoon the sun started to come out bringing different colours into the ice, and the mountains and glacier around us.
I spent some time focusing in on the glacier and the bergs coming from it.
There was no "calving" while we were there, and it is difficult appreciate that the glacier is constantly moving producing these monsters.
Its difficult to know when to stop, and where to look next.
Taking my eye of the ice for a brief moment I pick out an Arctic Skua fly overhead.
Then Helen found a pair of Snow Bunting, a wonderful opportunity to see this bird in its summer breeding plumage.
When seen in the UK during the winter, as well as having a drabber plumage they are very approachable. This pair were extremely wary and as I tried to get closer they would move away continuing to browse the moss and lichen.
The female refused to pose at all.
It was time for some lunch, so we made our way to the cafe. After lunch it was short drive, 10 kilometres to the main event Jokulsarlon. You can't see anything but huge scree mounds, we turned into one of the parking areas and took the path through the scree to be greeted with yet another fantastic scene.
Larger than Fjallsarlon the glacial lagoon is also more dramatic wit the ice blue water and rolling icebergs. They are spread out more, and less densely packed.
We made our way down to the edge of the shore and as we stood looking out across the lagoon a rushing sound signalled an iceberg rolling in the water.
The ice was much bluer in intensity here probably due to the deeper lagoon and moving ice bergs, at Fjallsarlon everything appeared static while here it felt like things were moving, evolving and changing, everytime you looked at the icebergs they took on a different shape
We moved to get closer to a group of Eider swimming around the icebergs.
Beautifully backed by the melting ice.
We walked along the shore taking in the icebergs. Boat trips took visitors out amongst the ice and out to the snout of the glacier. The waves of the boats would send waves rippling across the blue water rocking the icebergs and lapping against the ice, changing its shape.
The Eider looking like ants against the huge 'bergs on the water.
The weather was adding to the scenery as well, the sun warm while the air very cold.
While the blue of the ice being accentuated by the dark moody clouds.
This iceberg took on the shape of a dog.
I would love to know what caused the black trail marks on the main glacier, probably black rock working its way up through the ice as it moves down the valley.
Kittiwakes and Arctic Terns flew around the lagoon, but not in large numbers. These were joined by a pair of Arctic Skua that flew from the glacier over our heads.
At last a pale phased bird and against a fantastic background.
Then over our heads and out towards the sea a dark phase bird.
The waves onto the shore unsettled the Eider on the beach, this drake was disturbed and returned to the water, checking out the bottom in the ice clear water.
We left the lagoon and headed to the main area where there were many cars, it made me glad that we had stopped early and had those first views almost to ourselves, to have stopped here first would have been a disappointment.
We crossed the bridge and parked. People were everywhere, all with phones in hand, one girl was putting on different outfits and having her photograph taken. I concentrated on the Arctic Terns and Ice that was out in front of me and tried to block out the people.
A beautiful ice bridge
More ice blue.
Arctic Terns were everywhere, settling on the icebergs while others flew around constantly checking the water below.
An Icelandic Grey Seal swam around the icebergs.
The terns though, and the icebergs were difficult to pull away from.
The icebergs in this glacial lagoon calve from the Breidamerkurjokull glacier and they can spend five years floating in the lagoon, which in places is 260 metres deep. Eventually they move on via Jokulsa, Iceland's shortest river out to the sea. We were off to see where icebergs go to die.
We crossed the road and pulled over to the other side parking in a much quieter spot, and started to walk to the beach. Arctic Terns were gathered on the black sand beach, using this as a rest area rather than a nest site.
Everything about the Arctic Tern is symmetrically perfect other than the feet, they are so small but endear me to the bird even more.
The 'bergs drift down the river, changing in shape all the way, they wash out into the sea where the waves push them up onto the beach.
Ever wondered why we say as clear as ice?
Seals surfed in the waves.
Noise from the terns behind me had me search for what was causing the disturbance. As I climbed the beach I could see a dark brown bird being dive bombed by the Arctic Terns, a Great Skua.
As I got closer I could see that the terns had made sure the skua realised it was not wanted.
Even though this was not a breeding site the skua was still seen as a threat, and instinct in the terns demanded that they repel the invader and threat. The skua tolerated but if the came to close it would lung upward with its bill. as a method of deterrent the terns defecate and are very accurate.
I edged my way closer and closer stopping as I went. The terns seemed to be deflecting my presence and in the end I was about ten feet from the skua and able to get some lovely portraits.
I think this was its best side.
Then it decided it had enough and took off accompanied by the terns.
In the air it decided to fight back twisting in the air to attack the marauding terns.
Then once back on the beach it ook a stance that reminded me of "Drogon" the dragon from "Game Of Thrones".
Wings thrown back and open showing the characteristic white flashes, and beak well open as throwing fire in anger.
Finally the skua had enough and was off, flying back towards the lagoon with the terns in hot pursuit.
I made my way back to the beach where I turned my attention to the seals just off shore on a slightly exposed bank.
These are in fact Harbour Seals, one of two seals that pup in the country, the other being the Grey Seal seen in the lagoon earlier.
The sun had gone in and it had suddenly become very cold, it was easy to forget this as we concentrated on the ice and seal with the sun out, but it really was cold now. We walked back to the car along the side of the river where Arctic Terns fished in the turbulent water and Eider lined the rocks on the shore. As well as the eider there were two different ducks, all drakes they were Harlequins.
It was nice to see them in fast flowing water. Here capturing both breeding habitat, the fast flowing river, and winter habitat, rocky coast lines.
As they came close though they spooked and I was able to catch them in flight.
Leaving Jokulsarlon, we continued past further glacier tongues in the valleys coming down from the icecap. We passed through Hali followingthe ringroad to our final destination for the day, Höfn.
Although no bigger than many European villages it seemed like a thriving metropolis after the places we had passed through. Höfn simply means harbour, the town relies on fishing and fish processing band is famous for langoustines. We were staying in a guest house on the edge of the town. The weather was changing and all we managed before dinner was a drive to the water side to look back across the bay at the glaciers we had just passed. It was a shame because if the weather had stayed with us the view would have been even more stunning.
Tomorrow our journey would take us through the East of Iceland, today though had been spectacular, so many photographs so many astonishing views, and some wonderful close up wild life. Tomorrow would be another day, another adventure.
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