Monday, 14 June 2021

1st June - Calgary Beach, Eas Fors, Loch na Keal and Tobermory, Mull, Scotland

Having been to the south, the north east and centre of the island, today we decided to explore the north and west of the island, heading out through Tobermory and around to Dervaig, then crossing over a moorland area down to Torloisk, then turning right to head towards Calgary Bay.

The journey from Dervaig produced absolutely nothing, a huge disappointment, but it was a beautiful ride from Torloisk around the mountain roads with wonderful views out toward the north west islands of Coll and Tiree, before dropping down alongside Calgary Bay.

On an island with as few sandy beaches as Mull, Calgary Bay really is outstanding. The bay faces west towards Coll and Tiree. The beach is broad and sandy. The sea is an idyllic blue if you catch it in the right weather conditions. And arms of high ground sweep round the north and south sides of the bay, framing it perfectly.

The name comes from the Gaelic cala ghearraidh, which translates as the meadow beside the bay. The origins of settlement here are unclear, but it seems unlikely that in their travels around the Western Isles the Vikings would not have spotted what would have been an almost ideal location for them, combining shelter, a beach on which to draw their boats clear of the water, fertile land for planting, and surrounding high ground to make attack difficult from the landward side. But this is all supposition: if the Vikings were here, we are not aware of any evidence of their stay.

The meadow is another example of the Machair habitat on Mull and we could see many Common Gulls feeding amongst the daisies and grass.


After the machair come sand dunes that are covered with marram grass.  When we were here back in 2008 there was a large colony of Sand Martins nesting in the dunes, today there was no sign of any Sand Martins let alone any nest burrows.  The area of machair is fenced off to ensure it is not unduly used.  You can access the area but are asked to do so with caution.

We walked across the beautiful white sandy beach.  The sun wasn't out and it wasn't possible to enjoy the colours in the crystal clear water, but this did not take from the beauty of the area.


Looking west from the dunes

A stream flowed into the sea on the south side of the bay and here the Common Gulls were bathing in and drinking the fresh water.  They would fly in from the machair where they were feeding, coming low across the beach.  



In summer plumage the Common Gull is a very beautiful gull taking on a dove like appearance similar to that of a Kittiwake, unlike the Kittiwake it has "mirrors" or white patches on the tips of the primary feathers.


In the shallow valley of the stream flowing down to the shore , you can still see the walls of up to 20 houses plus their associated barns. This is all that is left of the crofting township of Invea, whose story came to a halt in the early 1800s. Its 200 inhabitants were "cleared": invited to leave by their landlord so he could earn more from his land by grazing sheep on it. Departure was not optional, and on the north shore of the bay you can still see signs of the stone pier from which many of the residents of Invea left for a new and uncertain life in North America.

We took the footpath north of the bay and headed towards the pier, the edge of the bay is lined with huge rocks that have probably fallen from the sides of the mountain.

Looking up the sheep were up on the top of the ridge, this one appeared to be having a conversation with two Hooded Crows

Buzzard and crows were seen above the ridge, plus a Kestrel, while from the shelter of the woodland on the slopes a Cuckoo called.

Looking across the bay the straight vertical cliffs of the headland stood out.

Coming back the rocks that lead down to the beach.


We had a cup of tea and ice cream in the little cafe on the beach and watched the small car park slowly fill up, despite the overcast conditions the beach was very popular.

From Calgary we re-traced our route heading south.  The road was very winding and slow.  As we headed towards Ulva we passed a waterfall, another place that I could remember from our last visit.  There was a small car park so we stopped and paid what turned out to be a very good visit.

The waterfall is known as "Eas Fors Waterfall" and is one of the most spectacular waterfalls on the island. The ‘Eas Fors Waterfall’ place name is tautological as all three words are synonymous. This often occurs when a name from one language is imported into another and a standard descriptor is added on from the second language. Eas is Gaelic for waterfall, Fors is Norse for waterfall so it could be said that Eas Fors Waterfall is labouring the point slightly!

Eas Fors consists of a series of three waterfalls, the Upper Falls being above the road, and the Middle Falls just below the road.  The final fall plunges 100 feet over the edge of the cliff to the sea below. 

The Upper Falls


The view through the road bridge from the Upper Falls pool.

Crossing the road you reach the Middle Falls and as I made my way to the water a Dipper flew past me, under the bridge and up towards the Upper Falls.

While this is where the stream disappears and falls about 100 feet to the beach below:

Looking along the cliff a Buzzard sat on a dead tree.

The Dipper put in another appearance but again was here and gone in a flash, there were too many people about to allow it to settle.  In the grass by the side of the stream were Common Spotted Orchids.

Walking back to the Upper Falls there was a steep path that wound up over the cliff that allowed you a spectacular view of the Upper Falls as the main river tumbled over the plateau.


A little further along you could get alongside the river and watch as the water reached the end of the plateau.

From this position there were views across Loch Tuarth to the island of Ulva.

A path then led alongside the stream as it came across the plateau, following the path it was possible to walk to a further waterfall that emerged out of a gorge, the water having cut this as it came down from even higher up the mountain.

The path wound its way through the bracken and with the sun now out it was very warm in the shelter of the slope.  A Golden-ringed Dragonfly appeared and settled on the bracken stems, this was my first dragonfly of the year, I can't recall having to wait until June to see one before, another indicator of the strange spring we have had.


A common species found in southern England and the west coasts of Wales, the Lake District and Western Scotland, it like acidic streams.  The female is the UK's longest dragonfly, this one though is a male shown by the slight club shape to the abdomen.


Then, like buses another dragonfly, this time a Four-spot Chaser, a rather brown looking dragonfly with two spots on each forewing.  Male and female are very similar but told apart by the pattern of lines on the thorax, this one a female.

If these two were a surprise the next were as much again.  Two orange butterflies were seen dueling in the bracken, when they broke away one settled on the bracken leaves.


At first I thought that it was a Pearl-bordered Fritillary but on a more detailed look I could see it was in fact a Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary.  The dark markings near the edge of the forewing are separated in the Pear-bordered Fritillary, while in the Small Pearl-bordered, as you can see here they are all joined.

I walked on and scrambled around a corner where I could get a view of the gorge, but my attention was taken from the view as two small butterflies were fighting in the heather.  They appeared dark but I knew what these were, Green Hairstreak and I followed one until it finally settled on a new Bracken leaf.

It looked as if it had just emerged looking immaculate and showing the dotted white lines on the hind wing that give it the hairstreak name.



The Green Hairstreak took my attention away from the gorge and I forgot to photograph it. This was a far as I could go so I turned back and was greeted with another wonderful view of Loch Tuarth and Ulva


We moved on, the road passing Ulva Ferry and then heading down to the northern shore line of Loch na Keal, we followed this checking the beach for Otter.  Finally we reached the parking spot that is closest to the nest site of the White-tailed Eagle.  Getting out of the car we could see one adult sat in one of the tallest conifers.


This is the above photograph cropped further.


Then as we watched it dropped from its perch and flew off, quickly followed and mobbed by the local Buzzards.



It did not go far as was quickly back, alighting once again in the same tree and almost the same branch.


I then attempted to digiscope the eagle with just a steady hand following the loss at the start of the week of an essential part of the kit I had bought.  The results were not too bad and clearly show the size and majesty of the UK's largest bird or prey.



We waited to see if it would fly again, but it appeared quite settled perched watching the surrounding water and country side.  It was time then to move on and we made our way to Salen and then turned left and headed north to Tobermory.

The name Tobermory comes from the gaelic Tobar Mhoire, meaning well of Mary.  The town was built as a fishing port in 1788 on a design by Thomas Telford and is now the main town on Mull. It is a picture-postcard of a place with the brightly painted buildings that curve around the harbour along the main street to the pier and the high woodland-fringed hills surrounding the bay. 


The town has a good variety of shops, hotels, and other accommodation as well as being the administrative centre for the island. The harbour is always busy with fishing boats, yachts and the ferry to and from Kilchoan.  


As the tide rises and the water remains still reflections of the brightly coloured houses ripple in the water.



We wandered along the harbour road while shopping was conducted and then ate in one of the local pub / restaurants, after that it was back to the cottage.

As a post script to the day, overnight the Moth trap produced a little more interest with the following notable species

Barred Umbar


Dark Arches


Coronet


Cloud Bordered Brindle


White Ermine 


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