13th June - Parco Archeological della Neapolis, Sircusa, Italy

To the west of Sircusa is Neapolis the ancient quarter.  It contains rough-hewn quarries, grand theatres and tombs.  The site is set among shady fir trees and olive groves.

We found our way to the ticket office and after a coffee entered the park, taking in first the Roman Amphitheatre which is ringed by trees and overgrown with vegetation.  Unfortunately, only a small part of the Roman amphitheatre is still visible nowadays. The medieval and sixteenth-century looting has greatly reduced what was once one of the largest amphitheatres in Italy. The dimensions were slightly smaller than those of the arena in Verona. 

 A path lines with stone sarcophagi leads to the imposing theatre.  Below a parapet circling the arena is a corridor where both gladiators and animals made their entrances for the spectacles.

At the centre of the arena is a quadrangular basin. Probably a sort of trap door that served as a support for the shows of the amphitheatre

These are the ruins of the altar of Hieron, the largest stone altar built in the Greek world. It was dedicated to Zeus 'eleutherios'. It is almost 200 m long and according to tradition, up to 450 bulls were sacrificed here on the occasion of the feasts that commemorated the expulsion of the tyrant Trasibulos.

This is the latomia del paradiso, the Paradise stone quarry. In ancient times it looked very different and was a place of work and a prison for slaves. Nowadays it's a beautiful garden with vegetation made of Mediterranean and exotic plants: orange and lemon trees but also palms and ficus trees. 

Inside the quarry it's also possible to see some caves. One of them is the 'Grotta dei cordari' the ropemakers cave because this crafmen's corporation worked here for centuries. 

But the most famous cave in Syracuse is the 'ear of Dionysius'. This grotto has a height of 23 m and is deep about 60 m. Its name derives from the shape that resembles a human ear. A famous story, told from the painter Caravaggio during his Sicilian period, remembers the greek tyrant Dionysius who used this cave as prison for his enemies. Thanks to the peculiarity of the cave which expanded the voices, he could spy his prisoners.

The "Ear" was used in the latest film, Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny, as the tomb of Archimedes, as it was considered more dramatic than the real thing which is only a couple of kilometres away.

A different view of the quarry.

Unfortunately the Greek Theatre was being used as a theatre for various productions through the summer and the original seats and terracing were covered for the public to use without damaging the originals.  So this is what we could see.

The ancient Greek theatre was built between the 5th and 3rd century B.C. It could probably hold 12,000-14,000 spectators. 

This impressive monument dug into the rock of the Temenites hill. This is the reason why it's still partly preserved in the lower part of the cavea while the upper part is missing: this part was built with stone blocks which were reused during the medieval period.

Walking around the top of the theatre there was a wonderful view of the quarry, in some areas looking like a scene from Planet of the Apes.

This beautiful fountain: the nympheum, provided water to the area and there were also the remains of some tombs dating back to the early Christian age. 

Another view of the theatre, such a shame we couldn't see it in it proper state

As we walked back down we passed this house.This is also an historical monument: a water mill dating back to the 18th century.

 That was the end of our visit and it was getting hot and time for lunch and a well earned drink.

9th June - Ortiga, Siracusa, Sicily, Italy

We left London Gatwick for the island of Sicily in Italy, whilst having been to many Italian cities, the island of Sicily has always fascinated me, Sicily was the starting point for the unification of Italy by Giuseppe Garibaldi in 1860, following this Sicilians voted for unification of Italy and this took place under King Vittorio Emanuele II.  However this brought little but poverty.  By the end of the 19th Century emigration was the only escape from poverty and this led to many villages losing their men folk to America, Argentina and Mexico.  This bred the mafia and constant conflict with the government and Mussolini.  Today Sicily is still considered a differnt place to the rest of Italy.

The other fascination with Sicily was the geology, the island being dominated by the imposing threat of Mount Etna, Europe's largest active volcano, but the whole island is formed from volcanic eruptions.  As we flew into Catania Etna was there on the left hand side of the plane and smouldering away.

We stayed in the village of Ogina, about 20 minutes south of the city of Siracusa, and it was here that we visited on our third day on the island.  The city has a huge emphasis on Greek heritage, and the island of Ortiga was once known as the loveliest city in the world. Siracusa gave the world architectural beauty with a Baroque heart.  Ortiga itself has facades framed by wrought iron balconies.  The city was founded in 733 BC, by Corinthian settlers.  Over time Siracusa rose to become supreme Mediterranean power of its age under Dionysius the Elder.

Ortiga is the cultural island at the heart of Greek the city and while today it has a grand Baroque and Catalan feel, it is informal, intimate and very cultured.  It was here we visited, parking outside the city and walking across the main bridge Ponte Nuova to the island.

Graced with two natural harbours, and fresh springs the island was dedicated to the huntress Artemis.  As you enter the island you pass the Temple of Apollo, the oldest city temple in Sicily, dating back to 565 BC.  The temple itself is thought to have functioned in the past as both church and mosque.

Walking past the temple we were soon among the narrow lanes with balconies and street lamps.

We walked around the east side of the island along the fortifications that over look the sea.

A facade in front of a church

More windows shutters and balconies that had colour and ambiance to the lanes.

Turning towards the Piazza Duomo a silhouette of the Duomo.

Sandstone walls weathered by the rain and wind.

More balconies looking north from the Piazza.

The Duomo, a presence over the Piazza Duomo.

Starting life as a 5th century temple dedicated to Athena was converted into a Christian. cathedral in AD 640.  The exterior is a rich Baroque facade with a mixture Greek and Norman influences.

All around the Piazza were photographic opportunities.

The door of Chiesa Santa Lucia alla Badia, along with the twisted barley-sugar columns.

A view of the Piazza looking north from the church.

A chandelier glows from behind an open window.

 

Views down to the west side of the island and the sea.

The sea wall fortifications on the west side.

More narrow lanes.

The fortifications on the east side.  There was a small beach on the left hand side that was packed!.

We had dinner over looking the Fonte di Diana, situated at the south end of the Via Roma in the Piazza Archimede.  It looks as old as some of the other sights in this area, but in fact was constructed at the start of the 20th century.  Diana is another name for Artemis, to whom this city is dedicated

After dinner we made our way back to the villa.  I was really impressed with Ortiga a real jewel.