Thursday 7 June 2018

28th May - Beaulieu to Port de Gagnac, Dordogne, France

Once again we were serenaded by the Black Redstart from just before dawn.  The morning though was not as welcoming as the day before, and the forecast looked very much the same, a dry morning and then rain in the afternoon.  We were moving on today and were faced with the option of two walks, one shorter than the other.  Our guiding notes advised us not to arrive too early at our next hotel as we would not be able to check in until around 16.00, but we had to weigh this up with the threat of rain, and if it was anything like the rain we encountered yesterday we would not want to be caught out in it.  There was not a great deal of difference in distance in the two walks, and s a result we opted for the longer walk, in the hope we could enjoy the stated views and finish before the rains came.  The route would take us through farms to start with and two small hamlets, to a view point looking back over Beaulieu, before winding down through woods t reach the River Cere, a tributary of the Dordogne, and our hotel in Port de Gaganc.

We set off after breakfast, leaving our bags to be transported onward.  Initially the route took us over the river just as we had done the day before.  Crossing the weir we were faced with similar reflections in the water as seen yesterday, although today there was very little breeze and if possible the water seemed even calmer and therefore reflective.  This view from the centre of the weir.


While this view from the other side of the river.


We followed the same path through the holiday camp and across the side stream where Grey Wagtail flew from the bridge.  We then turned onto a road, but unlike the previous day we did not double back on a side path but kept walking alongside the river.

From the road we headed uphill, gently ascending and past houses and open farmland.  At one point a Black Kite drifted over carrying what looked like a bone or piece of an unfortunate dead animal.


It was actually pecking or pulling at bits of meat still on the bone.


Eventually the path came out at the top of a hill and passed through open fields.  Although not in this picture Swallows swooped low over the top of the crops and over our heads and into barns behind us.



At this part of the walk the sun was with us, and we were afforded with views down into the valley and across to Beaulieu and the point where we had crossed the river at the start of the walk.



We passed through the farm, and along a road with houses on one side and fields ofwild flowers on the other.  In the sunshine we came across our first butterflies of the day, and like yesterday It was the Meadow Fritillary that was the most numerous.



The walk was alternating between woodland and fields, when out in the open there were butterflies and insects to see.  This is sometimes known as a Minstrel Bug, or more formerly by its Latin name Graphosoma lineatum.  It is one of many shield beetles but is conspicuous by the red and black stripes.



Black-veined White butterflies frustrated by flying around and never settling, but there was always something to catch the eye, this Small Heath


And an unidentified cricket or grasshopper within the grass.



The first Meadow Brown of the year.



A rather damaged Small Blue.



And a moth that at first I thought was a type of Grizzled Skipper but is clearly a moth, but of what species I am not sure, possibly a Latticed Heath?



Across the valley another Golden Oriole was singing, and we walked into the woods with it getting closer.  Frustratingly though, once again the only glimpse I got was of a shape flying through the trees and away out of sight

We were now descending, and it had passed the time where yesterday we had experienced rain, but while there was not the claps of thunder we heard yesterday, the clouds were gathering.  As we passed through a small hamlet we felt a few drops and decided to shelter for a while in a barn.  The rain eased and we carried on.  We had a choice now follow the main walk notes or take a short cut through woodland that would at least offer some shelter.  We opted for the sheltered route, and pretty soon it started to rain hard.  the trees once again provided shelter to start with, but as the rain continued the water came off the leaves and onto us.

As we came through a small hamlet called Guilles we put on the wet gear, the walk continued down hill through woodland.  In many places the trees were weighed down with water and blocked the path, and in places there were gullies on the path with water running down them.  As we reached the bottom of the path the rain started to ease, and we came out into the village of Port de Gagnac, and we saw the River Cere, and finally our hotel for the night.

We knew we were early but we just hoped we could get in while they served lunch, but as we approached the door there was a sign stating that they were closed on Monday!  And they were closed the door was locked and there was know one about.  We could see our bags inside, but there was no way we could get to them.  It was 13:30, they opened at 16:00.  Fortunately there was a covered area outside and tables and chairs, so we took off the wet clothes and hung them up, and sat down to wait while the rain continued to pour down.

To say we were now a little down was an understatement, the  last two days had been awful, and the forecast for the rest of the week was pretty much the same.  All we had to wind away the time was the chance to watch the White and Grey Wagtails catching the may flies out over the river.



 As well as the wagtails a Kingfisher flew past heading up the river to the weir.  This one particular wagtail sat on the same spot, you can see the raindrops in the photograph.



The rain started to ease into the latter part of the afternoon, and as the sun partially came out, a mist formed above the water of the river.




The hotel staff arrived at 16:00, and we were able to get into our room.  This was at the front of the hotel, and overlooked the river.  Once the rain finally stopped and the sun put in a more permanent appearance, the view from our room looked a little more inviting, so i decided to take a short walk to explore the area.


Port de Gagnac was once a station on the river Cere, and was where logs felled in the upper forests were floated downstream to pile up and be collected.  Today there are piles of logs that have collected near and over the weir.  With the coming of the railway this died out and today trucks are used to take away the timber.  Today it is a quiet hamlet, linked to the village of Gagnac across the river

I walked along the road, and then past the weir where the river cascaded down into various different streams between small islands. A pair of Kingfishers called and all I saw was a flash of blue as they disappeared into the trees and islands.  From the road I turned left, and crossed two bridges, after the second I turned left again and walked alongside the stream, heading back on my self.  I reached the point of the weir where I could see the hotel on the other side of the river, the place where we had sat for a couple of hours earlier in the day.


My hope was that I could get some closer views of the wagtails, and maybe even the Kingfishers, but they didn't show.  The way back was to retrace the walk I had just taken, and as I reached the bridge I disturbed a damselfly from the grass.  It flew up with that lovely dappled flight, and I saw that it was a demoiselle, and blue, so a Beautiful Demoiselle.  I watched as it flew around finally settling on a leaf high up into a Sweet Chestnut tree.  This was the best view I could get of it.


I spent some time on the bridges, watching, but mostly listening to the bird song.  I had brief glimpses of what I supposed was a Chiffchaff after the calls, and Blackbirds and Song Thrushes were along the edge of the water.

I made my way back to the main road and the river, and on a dead tree stuck on the weir were both White and Grey Wagtail.  Both must have nests nearby as they were collecting insects by flying out over the water.

 
I headed back to the hotel, as we prepared for dinner the rain appeared, but this was interspersed with some sunny spells which delivered a rainbow just before we headed down to dinner.


The forecast for the rest of the week was much the same as the last two days, and we were not in the mood to get as wet as we had done over the last two days.  The walk tomorrow was one of the longest, and according to the notes, the most challenging, and that without rain.  We were going to have to decide exactly what we wanted to do.

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