During breakfast a Peregrine flew across the terrace, and a also a single Sparrowhawk could be seen circling over the valley. After breakfast we left the hotel, and followed the route into the village. Passing the car park, a Common Redstart sang from the top of a conifer.
Away in the distance I could also hear the now all too familiar song of the Black Redstart.
We walked through the main square once again, and out past the bench we had lunch on the day before, and then down the lane. It was a quiet lane, with plenty of verge on either side, and it was not too long before we started to find orchids. Lizard Orchids were about in good numbers, most of them showing the characteristic "tails" that give them their name.
Close up you can see the detail within the flower heads.
Then some confusion, we thought at first that this was a form of orchid that lacks chlorophyll, but on investigation it turns out this is Broomrape. Like some of the pale orchids they are mainly parasitic. They are found under the trees where they may parasite the tree roots and Ivy.
After the Lizard Orchids came the flowers of the Bee Orchid family. There are up to nine species within this family found in the region. This is the Woodcock Orchid.
In the dark places the bright blue of the Harebell petals stood out against the inky black backgrounds.
We strolled slowly down the lane, inspecting all the plants we could find. At a clearing another Redstart was singing from a dead branch.
And once again on the other side of the small meadow a Black Redstart trying to out sing its cousin on the other side.
In the field were more Lizard Orchids, and with them a bright orange butterfly.
A closer view revealed it as a Heath Fritillary.
The lane now became wall lined, limestone slate being used to bank the sides of the road, and fields full of more wild flowers now above us, and allowing eye level views of the Lizard Orchids
More Bee Orchids, this time a Bee Orchid.
Then a Lesser Butterfly Orchid.
The Greater Butterfly Orchid is similar in appearance and colour, the lesser can be distinguished by the fact that the sepals align parallel to each other.
A splash of colour was next, a Red Helleborine.
While common in most parts of Europe, it is a rare plant in England, so a chance to enjoy.
We continued the stroll down the lane, and the orchids kept coming. Another Bee Orchid
Then a Military Orchid, apparently the name comes from the fact that the sepals and side petals come together to form a "helmet".
Then another species from the Bee Orchid Family, a Fly Orchid.
Again not immediately clear why it is called a Fly Orchid. The name arises because of the Inflorescence on the flower that resembles that of a fly.
The lane became a path that made its way down a cliff face. The slope looking down was very steep, but the path itself quite comfortable. Bonelli's Warblers sang in the trees, but never gave the chance of a photograph. It took me awhile to figure out what it was, but after checking the call there was no doubt.
There was no direct sun yet, but we could feel the warmth burning through the cloud. With the warmth came the butterflies. Adonis Blue warming up on the stones on the path.
And a Pearly Heath.
Then a Wall Brown that appeared on the path too.
Settling on the stones to warm up.
The upper wing appears to have been burnt.
The path then opened up on to a street on the edge of the village and we were guided through the narrow lanes. At one point we crossed a stream which I can only assume was over the many years the creator of the gorge in which we were now standing.
Crag Martins were nesting on the building on the right, and one sat on a ledge.
We made our way through yet another picturesque medieval village with lovely windows, shutters and window boxes.
The village of Autoire used to be a prominent centre of profitable wine-growing country until the phylloxera epidemic in the 19th century wiped out the vineyards. The industry generated much wealth prior to this, and the legacy of this can be seen in the impressive houses and chateaus that lined the stream flowing through the village. The village has a nickname, "Petit Versailles" because of the elegant homes, it has no fewer than four chateux, the most prominent of which is Chateaux de Limargue, a nobleman's residence renovated in the 16th and 17th century.
We stopped in the main square of the village for a drink before continuing on, taking the time to enjoy the impressive buildings.
As we came to the end of the village we crossed the stream once again and walked through fields where poppies framed the distant cliff face of the gorge.
Our route took us along a gently ascending path through woodland. We could hear the stream below us as we made our way. Frustratingly a Wood White flew past us, and despite teasing to stop, it never did and in the end I had to watch it fly off.
There were more Lizard Orchids on show, and as we climbed higher up the side of the gorge these lovely St Bernard's Lilies.
The sun was now coming out, and in the dappled lit patches Speckled Wood butterflies appeared warming up in the sunshine.
In places the trees would part, and there would be views of the cliffs on the far side of the gorge.
On the right hand side of the cliff there are views of the Chateau des Anglais, more yellow than the cliff, and hanging on the side of the cliff. This chateau was a stronghold during the Hundred Years War. The castle was occupied by Bernard de Salle in 1378. He was under the employment of the King of England and was said to have plundered towns and villages around the Quercy area. The name comes from the type of construction typically built by the English in the period.
Another opening showed the sheer vastness of the gorge.
Eventually the sound of rushing water came much closer and we came across part of the waterfall.
The path then comes out onto a road, and we turned to to the right, back into the woods following a path around to views out across the gorge, and looking down on the village of Autoire.
You could also get a better view from here of the turret belonging to the Chateau des Anglais.
While the sheer drop was fenced off we came across a patch of wild flowers out in the open, and in the sunshine. As a result there was quite a bit of diversity, with Black-veined Whites and Adonis Blues buzzing around. As I walked through the grass I disturbed a single Meadow Fritillary, that flew around and then found a mating pair, and it wanted some of the action.
The interloper then decided there was nothing giving so it flew off and left the original two to get on with it.
Pyramidal Orchids grew amongst the Ox-eye Daisies, on the limestone slabs
A small Blue was also kicked up from the grass by the side of the bushes.
Referred to in the french guide books as a Little Blue, which is as descriptive as "small".
While the Black-veined Whites did not stop this Brimstone took a liking to one of the Pyramidal Orchids.
The path continued around the head of the gorge, and finally we had views of the waterfall taht we had briefly glimpsed and could continuously hear.
And another view across the gorge and of the village below.
The area around this view point was all grass with Bird's Foot-trefoil, and as a result there were plenty of Adonis Blues about.
We left the viewpoint,a nd followed a lane through farmland that would take us back to Loubressac. The path was lined with limestone walls covered in a heavy thick moss. On either side were fields dotted with Walnut trees and covered in wild flowers. The most impressive of these were lovely blue spikes of Meadow Sage. Impressive from a distance,
and close up.
The sun never completely came out, but we could sense it through the thin cloud, and as a result in the open spots on the stones and gravel along the path butterflies would settled to warm up and to take up the minerals in the soil.
Here a Grizzled Skipper
A very blue Adonis Blue.
And where there is stone and walls there is of course at this time of year the Wall Brown.
A Viviparous Lizard was also warming on one of the uncovered stones in the wall.
Cuckoos called in the distance on both sides of the path, sometimes giving the impression that they would come closer but never actually showing.
Then out of the bushes came a black and white butterfly. I never expected this, and was desperate for it to settle which it eventually did.
The first though is White Admiral, but there are two similar species seen here, the White, and the Southern White Admiral. This is bluer on the upper side and has a much more defined spot on the upper fore wing close to the head, this is lacking in the "white".
I was then able to get a view of the underside to further confirm. On the hind wing there is a single line of black spots as opposed to the double line on the "white".
Another factor is that the "Southern" emerges earlier than the "White". Another lifer for me, and I was pleased, the day had been very fruitful.
As we came into more open countryside the fields could be seen to be busy with Black-veined Whites. These are powerful flyers, and have managed to provide me with a good shot. But as we walked along I noticed a pair settle on a flower, so I made my way over, and finally managed to get a good shot of this beautiful butterfly.
Yesterday there was a sense of euphoria over finding the Lizard Orchid, but today we had begun to realise that they were extremely common, and could be seen almost everywhere. However every so often there would be one that provided some interest in the shape and development. That was the case with this one. Looking down on it the tails were quite spectacular
Birding had not been easy due to the amount of leaves on th trees, in the main you had to rely on the songs. Blackcaps have beenvery common as has the Chiffchaff. I had expected to hear Willow Warbler, but there was no sign at all. Earlier the Bonelli's Warbler had been identified through song with the briefest glimpses. Now as we walked the final part of the path we heard a Nightingale, but never saw it.
A bird new toi me though was the Melodious Warbler, and for once I had checked the song before actually hearing it. So when I heard a scratchy song that was very similar to a Sedge Warbler but not in the right habitat I knew what it was. For once it came out into the open to sing.
It is larger than a Chiffchaff or Willow Warbler, more comparable to a Whitethroat. The forehead is sloping, and with a relatively heavy looking bill.
The path then took us onto a road that finally delivered us to the main square in Loubressac where we stopped for a drink while thunder rumbled all around us. Back at the hotel we spent some time around the pool, around us a Buzzard circled.
Eventualy the rumbles of thunder delivered some rain, so we retired to get ready for dinner. Today, while only a short walk compared to the others, it had delivered some interesting finds, in flowers, insects and birds. Tomorrow we move on to our final destination.
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