We were walking on to our final destination today, a little place south of the town of Martel. here we would spend the final two nights before heading back to Toulouse and then Gatwick.
After breakfast we sorted our bags, and joined them in the taxi that would take them onto our hotel, while we were dropped off in the village of Carennac, from where we start our walk. There were two options today, and we opted to take the shorter of the two, by two kilometres, leaving us with an eighteen kilometre walk. However we could not get into the room until 16:00 so we had plenty of time to enjoy the country side.
Carennac is once again a small medieval village perched on a cliff overlooking the river Dordogne. There are many restored manor houses all clustering around a priory built in 1047. While it was still misty and drizzling we explored the lanes and took in the view of the houses.
An arch leads through to the priory entrance
And the main road runs over a small stream that leads down to the Dordogne.
With the damp weather overnight and the prospect of more we took time to put on gaiters to protect the boots, we did this under the stare of a death mask!
We set off through the back of the village and slowly uphill on a partially tarmaced path. This soon took us through woodland, and once again in contact with many Lizard Orchids. Eventually we came to a farm yard where we could hear Turtle Doves purring from the top of the barns. Finally we came through the farmyard and the woodland and out into an area of open fields. This area is known as the Causse which is an area of limestone plateau where the water disappears quickly leaving little to provide for the vegetation, as a result there is sparse grassland and very few trees, mainly mall Oaks or Junipers. The wild flowers that grow are mostly alkaline loving plants.
Our walk took us along a wall lined path, and early on we disturbed a brown Hare that raced away from us down the lane.
Wisely we had put on the gaiters as the grass lined paths were very wet. At one point the path came through an open meadow full of grass and white flowers. The walls were gone and replaced with a wire fence which allowed us to see into the grass much better.
Standing about six inches above the ground down amongst the grass were these beautiful Tongue Orchids.
It is quite amazing the variation that exists amongst the different orchid species we have found on this trip. In this case it is quite clear why these are called Tongue Orchids
Although there was no sunshine the sheer proliferation of flowers in the meadow meant there had to be butterflies, and it wasn't long before we could see them.
Here, the Pearl-bordered Fritillary.
And fortunately one that came a little closer.
As well as the daisies there were more spikes of the Meadow Sage that were attracting the small insects and bees.
A Clouded yellow, probably a female was found roosting under a flower head
All around we could hear the singing of the crickets, away in the trees at the back of the meadow, the purring of Turtle Dove, a little further back the occasional call of the Cuckoo, and at the top of a dead tree a singing Cirl Bunting.
We stood taking all this in, and wondering why in the UK we don't have landscape like this outside of a managed nature reserve, it was beautiful, and so relaxing. We wanted to explore the meadow but didn't feel we could cross the fence, and in the end we had to reluctantly tear ourselves away. As we walked from the meadow back into the woods I was taken by the floret of a honeysuckle, the scent being just a reminder of the beauty of the place.
We carried on down the path, back into small woodland, but still with the limestone walls covered in moss.
By the side of the path were more Bee Orchids, and we managed to find this late Spider Orchid.
I also came across this caterpillar, that I think may belong to the Oak Eggar Moth, but I am not certain.
I mentioned that we had been hearing the distant calls of Cuckoos, they were present all the way along the path, and as we reached a junction with the road with which we would turn down we managed to locate one at the top of a pylon. It was though, still, very distant
Our route now took us along small country lanes, lined on both sides with a thick grass verge. The verge once again a haven for the orchids. Here some impressive Pyramidal Orchids.
And of course more Lizard Orchids, the attraction being the curl of the "lizard's tails"
All along the lane we could hear Nightingale singing, but as has been the case so far not managing to get a clear view of the owner of the beautiful song. On the corner of the lane there was an open patch of grass with flowers. In the bushes surrounding it at least three Nightingale were singing, while in the grass I found a Mother Shipton Moth. It is named after a sixteenth century Yorkshire witch because the pattern on the forewing was said to resemble her face.
The only butterfly present was a Meadow Brown, settled on the grass stems.
We soon found the picnic table which were bizarrely hidden away from view across the river valley below. The river could be seen meandering through the valley with high limestone cliff faces at the edge of each meander.
After eating our picnic we returned back down the detoured track, and picked up our route once again. This took us through an open field where Corn Buntings were singing from a distant hedgerow. A little further along, staying on the path, but through a wooded area, we flushed a Hoopoe from the path, probably the same bird as earlier it disappeared into a tree, but flew out once again as we got closer. Once again it had eluded us.
The path then came out from the trees with open fields of grass and flowers on either side. As we headed down hill I saw yet another Hoopoe fly across the path from the field to our left. It then like all the others disappeared into the field.
Consolation for missing the Hoopoe was a Corn Bunting singing from the overhead wires.
From the field we walked through a small hamlet and then through farm buildings where Swallows were already feeding young fledglings settled on the road side wires.
I expected the next bird to have been quite common, but this was the first I had seen or heard on the trip, a male Stonechat.
We walked on along roads, and through a holiday camp. Another butterfly that sometimes is difficult to pin down is the Brimstone, we came upon one settled on the leaf of a bush.
Coming through the holiday camp the road winds round to meet the bridge across the River Dordogne. We walked across the bridge, there was a small pavement, and stopped in the middle to view the river. Once again you can see the cliff formed as the river cut through the limestone as it wound over the landscape.
Crossing the bridge and coming up beneath the cliffs it suddenly dawned on me that we had to somehow get out of the gorge, and with a sheer cliff face above us it was clear that this would not be an easy feat. The guide notes never really made any reference to this, but my walking partner did not believe me.
The next part of the walk was done in silence and at a fast pace!
I did manage to catch a Beautiful Demoiselle resting on one of the bushes by the side of the road.
The walk now turned off the road and through a gap in the cliff. This followed a stream up hill, gently at first then becoming much steeper, and then very steep and winding. In fact if it had been a day earlier the path would have been very wet, and probably almost impossible to get up. Once again this was done in silence.
Finally the path began to level out, and we came out into a plantation of Blackthorn, and then out into an open area with wonderful views out over the river and surrounding flood plain.
The top of the cliff was covered with low grass and small flowers, there had been Black-veined Whites about, and I thought I saw one on some blue flowers, but as I walked up to it I realised it was in fact a Scarce Swallowtail.
It continued to nectar on the flower and I was able to get in close.
While it is an impressive butterfly, they are quite common, it would have been nice to have found a Swallowtail. Is that unfair of me when you can get views like this?
The route then turned back on itself, away from the river. This took us through a small meadow, where with the sun now out there were lots of butterflies. Another new butterfly again, a Lesser Marbled Fritillary.
Flowering Thyme was the attraction.
Plus another new butterfly for the trip list, a Brown Argus.
Sunning in the grass.
We finally came out onto a gravel track that would eventually lead us to our final destination. Heading north the path was in full sunshine, and in one patch there were several damselflies including this immature Beautiful Demoiselle.
The focus slipped due to how close I was.
There were butterflies alongside us as we walked, but these were mostly those we had seen before. But then a darker and slightly large butterfly with a strong flight caught my eye. It appeared all brown, and I followed it as it flew low over the ground keeping to the shded areas. It then flew up and finally settled on a leaf almost at head height. I was able to me in a little closer to get a better view.
I knew immediately what it was as I read about them in the guide book. It was a Woodland Brown. Like a large Ringlet, but with bigger oval "eyes". It is extremely rare in the Dordogne region only being confirmed as present in 2011 and currently only known to be present from a string of a few sites running from the north west to the south east of the department. It is said to be declining in Europe, so its presence in the Dordogne is of great significance. I moved to get another view.
It is also seen at a European level to be an indicator of of a healthy ecosystem, and the habitat requirements are probably key to its rarity. The food plants though are not rare, it seems that he structure of the woodland plays an important part. Woodland with dappled sunlight, open rides and clearings seem to be ideal for the butterfly. In the Dordogne forest cover has increased from 25% in 1950 to 45% today, so this has helped to allow it to colonise.
The butterfly also has a short flight period for a few weeks in late May or June. It flits high through the trees and can easily be confused with a Meadow Brown, Speckled Wood or the Grayling species.
This find had made my day, I never expected to find one, and it is a spectacular butterfly to see.
A little further on and another fritillary, this time one we had seen before on the trip, a Glanville Fritillary.
From butterflies to a day flying moth, the Box Tree Moth, flying amongst the oak leaves.
This moth is an invasive species, native to Asia, and has spread across the continent wto the west. The larva feed on the leaves of the box trees as it name suggests and completely decimate them, so not a welcome species.
Another butterfly we have seen today is the Pearly Heath, but here we had a very good view of a small and beautiful butterfly
The gravel path met a road, and we doubled back on our self to head towards our hotel. We followed the road, once again the verges covered in grass and flowers, and limestone paving. A new find was a Cistus Forester Moth, yet another day flying moth, but a lovely shimmering green.
Bee orchids were all along the side of the road. I have never seen so many, they were present in clumps, it was wonderful to see.
These actually are the Bee Species, up close you can appreciate the delicate and detailed markings of these beautiful plants.
Finally we reached our destination, set back from the road in 17 acres of land was the guest house known as the Domaine de la Vaysee. We walked up to the house to meet our hosts and settle in. This was a whole different experience from the previous hotels. Here the dining experience was very social, one large dining table, and we all sat down together for dinner at the same time.
Tomorrow will be our final day, and we intend to take it a little easier, but I am sure there will be plenty to keep us interested.
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