1st August – Quepos to Naranjito, Costa Rica

We had arranged a tour and a guide for another early morning start, so we were up before the sun once again, and rather than bother to get a golf cart to pick us up we walked up the hill to reception.  In doings Helen was attacked by a large moth, probably because she had a white top on.  At reception I walked to a view point that looked south across the bay, with Manuel Antonio National Park in the distance.

Then our guide arrived, it was to the accompaniment of whistling Squirrel Monkeys in the trees around the reception area.  The troop consisted of all ages, adults youngsters and babies clinging on to their mother’s backs.  They moved through the branches and away from the buildings down the hill toward the beach.  We had seen them here on our last visit to this area six years ago, but unfortunately it was far too dark for any acceptable photographs.

We took the golf cart down to the main gate, and before we set off our guide was keen to show us something.  We walked a short way up the path, then into the undergrowth to a small tree.  There on a branch was a small nest made of what looked like spider’s webs and decorated with lichen and in it, two nestlings.

This was the nest of a Rufous-tailed Hummingbird.  From the picture it is not possible to appreciate the size, it was tiny about two inches in diameter.  The nest was position in a fork in the branch, directly under a broad leaf that provides shelter from the rain.  We didn’t stay too long and didn’t approach to close in fear of disturbing the nestlings, or worse drawing attention to the White-faced Capuchins who would happily raid it for a snack.

We set off into Quepos, and our first stop was at the sight of a Scarlet Macaw nest in an old palm tree.  The Macaws never showed, and we had to be content with a female Golden-naped Woodpecker and Chere’s Tanager.  From here we headed into the centre of Quepos, the main church to be exact, and again the site of dead palm tree and Macaw’s nest.  Once again there was no sign of the Macaws, overhead though a Black-bellied Whistling Duck, Yellow-headed Caracara, and on the wires an Inca Dove.

We left Quepos, heading out to the main highway over which we crossed, making our way up a non-metaled road through an area of houses, gardens and small holdings.  As we reached an area of open grass fields we pulled over.  Our guide pointed out a very distant Blue Black Grasquit.  A small finch like bird, which as you would gather from its name was bluish black in colour.  It has a habit of sitting low in the grass, and then jumping up to peck at the grass seeds.

At the back of the field as well there was an Eastern Meadowlark, while on the wires alongside the road there was a a Variable Seedeater singing.

As we scanned the fields we heard the familiar call of a Scarlet Macaw, looking around we couldn’t find the owner, and it was down to Helen to eventually find a pair feeding at the top of the trees alongside the road.

We have seen Scarlet Macaws on all our visits to Costa Rica, and they never fail to impress.  Large, brightly coloured and loud they are unmistakeable, although I still struggle with coming to terms with parrots in the wild, they always seem like they should belong in a zoo or pet shop.  What surprised me this time though was the fact that they were here in Quepos.  On previous visits they were around the Carara National Park and the Jaco, and as far as I was concerned they were restricted to there and to the Osa Peninsular, but now it seems since 2012 they have spread along the coat to Manuel Antonio.

They pair for life and travel around together keeping in contact with a series of reassuring call both in the air and when feeding.

One of the pair was feeding on the edge of the tree giving the better photo opportunities.

It would pull the fruit from the tree with its beak, and then hold it with its foot to position better in the beak before shredding the skin off.

While I had been giving my attention to this Macaw, Helen and the guide had been watching its mate, and had discovered something quite upsetting.  The upper mandible was elongated, and had grown around the lower mandible, and was now digging into the throat of the Macaw.

While it was able to feed it did appear to be impaired by the size of the mandible.

Worse still was the possibility of it continuing to grow and eventually strangling the bird.

Researching this further we found out that this is a common ailment in captive birds, and is more likely associated with poor diet, but there are circumstances where it is also due to a liver malfunction.  I would suggest that this is probably the cause here.

We watched the Macaws until they finally flew off together, we then boarded our vehicle, and continued the drive along the road through the various settlements.

Our next stop was in an area of private houses and gardens, some of which were still being constructed, or renovated.  Getting out of the car, a Rufous-naped Wren was calling from the wires alongside the road.  We had seen a lot of these birds on previous visits, but this was the first one for this trip.

A female Golden-naped Woodpecker appears at the top of a nearby tree, but this is not what we are looking for.  Our Guide leads the way, calling with a series of whistles in the hope of getting a response, which eventually he does.  After a quick search of the surrounding trees we find the owner of the response, a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl.

Calling from an open branch in a tree above the road we had an excellent view.

And it kept calling, as if in an angry response to an intruder, while at the same time keeping an eye on us as we slowly moved closer

Primarily solitary birds unless breeding they will defend a territory of about 350 to 600 metres radius.  The defence is enforced by the calling, but they will attack anything that is considered to be a threat.

It took one more look at us, then flew off to another tree across the road.

As it landed it seemed to melt into the tree, taking on the shape and colour of the many dead leaves about.

While we were watching the owl, our guide had picked out a family group of Crimson-fronted Parakeets.

Just as we getting back into our transport a lovely marked butterfly appeared, once again I have not been able to identify it.

Next stop was for a Roadside Hawk perched on a dead tree.  These hawks will follow troops of monkeys as they make their way through the trees, the hawks looking out for disturbed insects, such as dragonflies, and small birds.

The road condition got progressively worse as with started to climb up the side of the mountain.  We were following the side of a valley, and below flowed the Naranjo River.  Eventually we came to open space, with high slopes above us covered with trees and small flowering bushes.

At first it was quiet, then gradually things started to appear.  Two toucan species, a Black-mandibled, or Yellow-throated Toucan and a Fiery-billed Aracari.  None of which showed themselves sufficiently for photographing.  A female Masked Tityra did stay long enough to get a record shot.

Other birds present were a Buff-throated Saltator, and frustratingly a Blue-throated Goldentail.  The hummingbird has a bright, plastic like pink bill, and I manage to see in with the binoculars but it didn’t stick around for the camera. 

We were lucky to see one Hummingbird, although it did its best to frustrate any photography.  The Long-billed Starthroat.

A pair were perched in the canopy on dead branches hanging high over the roadside.  With the very white sky behind them it was very difficult to get any good definition.

Our guide then picked out a two-toed Sloth in one of the Cercropia trees.  It was a long way off, and pays credit to his eyes, it was the shape that alerted him to it.  Last year we did not see a single sloth, so it was nice to get one this year

Our final stop was alongside a football pitch, the quarry here was a possible Turquoise Cotinga, but we couldn’t find one anywhere.  On the other side of the road from the football pitch were gardens and fields, an Orange-chinned Parakeet flew in and perched in a dead tree.

We crossed a very damp pitch towards the edge of the river.  There was a Common Tody Flycatcher in the bushes.

And around the fallen branches and leaves a House Wren was moving around.  Very similar to the Eurasian Wren, it also has a very powerful song for its size.

Being damp the area was a good location for frogs, and very quickly Helen found a pale yellow frog with blue legs.  This was a morph of the Blue Jeans Poison Dart frog, it normally having an orangey red body with blue legs.  It was very mobile though and disappeared quickly into the leaf litter.

Above us there were more Yellow-billed Toucans, but the trees and light were not conducive to photographs.  I wasn’t concerned I felt there would be ample other opportunities.

It was now quite hot, and the bird life had gone quiet so it was time to head back.  As we approached the resort it started to rain.  Fortunately the rain did not last too long, and back at the hotel after getting a tip off at breakfast about a Sloth with a baby down on  the beach we headed there to search for it.

The Cercropia trees come down to the beach, and the sloths like the leaves to eat and the conditions as it is cooler with the breeze off the ocean.  The best way to find them is to ask as the security guards know where they are.  One was quickly pointed out, a solitary Two-toed Sloth feeding at the top of the tree.  They even eat with their eyes closed.

What we wanted though was the mother and baby, and it didn’t take Helen long to locate it, again just underneath the leaves at the top of the tree.  Here the baby with its head upside down, and mum partially covered by the leaves on the right.

The baby was a little more mobile than its mother.

But again, she was keeping the young one in check with her eyes tightly shut.

With it still being a little overcast we decided to go for a walk along the beach.  In order to get there we ordered a golf cart.  The road follows the valley, and in places there is an open area under the canopy.  In all the locations we stayed at the staff were very keen to point out he wildlife, and as we headed down to the beach our driver pulled over to point out a Three-toed Sloth, climbing up a very thin tree with a baby.

It would appear that she was moving trees, probably having come down for ablutions.  She was climbing the small tree in the hope that it would allow her to reach a much higher one, but as she climbed it was clear that it would not reach, and it was also doubtful it would hold their weight.

She continued to climb, and for a sloth was doing so quite quickly, but the further she climbed along the tree the more it bowed.

She then realised that this was not going to work, and started to back track, moving back down the tree.

Baby just seemed happy to hold on

We left them making their way down the tree, the assumption being that they would have to find another route.  The ground is a dangerous place for a sloth, they are vulnerable to attack, and even the Capuchins will try and take the baby away. 

We finally reached the beach where the sun was now out and it was quite warm.  Off shore is a large rock, when I asked what it was called the answer I received was “La Roca”.  With binoculars you could make out seabirds such as Brown Boobys and Magnificent Frigatebirds over the top, and every so often a White Ibis would fly either to or from it

The beach was lovely, a wide open expanse of sand.

Coconuts washed up on the beach adding that truly tropical feel.

A Great Kiskadee used on of the rocks to watch for insects, and shelter from the hot sun at the same time.

You can walk as far as Manuel Antonio National Park.  There is also a public beach, so as we got closer to the sun beds we decided to turn around and head back.

We spent the rest of the afternoon on the beach in the sunshine.  Like the Indian Ocean earlier in the year, the sea water was warm, and perfect for body surfing.  Every so often though there would be several strong waves and it was like being caught up in a washing machine.

Patrolling the palm trees in the shade were White-faced Capuchins, otherwise known as the monkey mafia. 

Being highly intelligent they are a real menace, not just to humans, but to the other wildlife, they are not averse to taking the iguanas around the hotel for a snack.  This Blue Ctenosaur is a little too big though

The remainder of today and the following day were going to be our opportunity for a rest.  We had a walk along the beach early in the morning but apart from that we relaxed on the beach, and got thrown about in the ocean.  The property was excellent, again, the staff so friendly and helpful, and the food wonderful.  There was one incident in the room where I didn’t close the mini bar properly, and in the morning there were empty crisp packets and fizzy drink spilled over the floor.  Little black footprints indicated we had been raided by the mafia.  They returned the next night, footprints once again alerting us, but this time all was locked up.  Bloody clever little creatures.