27th July - Rancho Naturalista, Tuis de Turrialba, Costa Rica

Early starts in Costa Rica are not difficult when you are still very much in your home time zone.  This morning we were up at 5.00am to meet our guide on the balcony of the lodge just as it was starting to get light.  Despite the cloudy conditions there were breaks in the cloud that allowed some colour in the sky as the sun began to rise.

Just as the hummingbirds were about after sunset last night, they were up before the dawn this morning, some being seen sitting in the surrounding branches.

From the lodge we walked down to a mercury vapour lamp located in amongst the forest, the light against a large white sheet.  It is known as the insect trap, but the majority of the insects present were moths.  We were here though to see what birds came to feed on the insects as it became lighter.  We sat watching, and I have to admit all I wanted to do was to go and check out all the amazing moths.

There were a few birds about, a Red-throated Ant Tanager, and a group of Brown Jays that were not welcome.  There was also a Dusky-capped Flycatcher, that would fly in and snatch an unsuspecting moth from the sheet.

The birding was not that spectacular, and the highlight for me was this Saturniid Moth, a silkmoth, that was huge as you can see from the photograph.  This moth was rescued from the birds, the others were left, and I vowed to come back the next day to get a better look.

We left the insect light and walked through the gardens and down the main track, turning off along someone's drive.  It would appear that all the land owners were happy for you to bird on their properties.  The drive then led to a clearing that was surrounded with dense vegetation.  We were looking for a small bird, but one with an amazing little act.  It was the White-collared Manakin. and here was a lek where the males perform to attract a female.  The Manakin announced it's presence with what can only be described as the sound of a fire cracker going off, which was then followed by the sound of fingers snapping.  We could see movement, but it was difficult to find the birds in the gloom.  Finally, one appeared in the open, a poor shot, but it provides a record of the bird.

The fire cracker and finger snapping sound is produced by snapping their wings, and this is accompanied with the males jumping on the branches, normally with another male.  We watched the display through the tangle of vegetation, getting glimpses of the birds dancing, but never a clear photographic opportunity.  Like the moths we vowed to return.

One of the species we had hoped to see at the insect light was the Tawny-chested Flycatcher, an endemic Costa Rica species, and a specialty here.  We had heard one sing, and managed very brief views.  As we walked up the hill back to the lodge our guide heard another singing, and this time I was able to get a good view.

It was once found in Nicaragua, but now solely in Costa Rica.  It inhabits dense vegetation in secondary forests.  The head is dark grayish with a pale loral and broken eye-ring, an olive-green back, dusky wings with two wing bars, a white throat, a bright cinnamon breast band, whilst the rest of the underparts are pale yellow.

As we made our way back to the lodge, the male Snowcap was sitting in a bush.

Unfortunately it didn't stop for long, and disappeared over the trees and out of sight.

At the lodge a pair of Keel-billed Toucans were performing in the bare branches of the trees.

And as we ate breakfast we were entertained by another bird with a new name, formally known as the Blue-capped Motmot, it now known as Lesson's Motmot.

They perch and wave the long tail, the main diet is insects, but they, like all the other visitors, are rather taken by the availability of banana.

After breakfast we left the lodge, and drove down the hill.  We followed the river Tuis, and in a n open area of fields stopped to watch some Variable Seedeaters, and this Grove-billed Ani sunbathing on a stump.

We pulled off the main road and headed up a river valley, stopping at a bridge that crossed the river close to a sugar cane factory.  In a tree overhanging the river a Common Tody Flycatcher was working its way through the branches.

We were here for another specialty, the Sun Bittern.  These birds are found by fast following streams in the foothills and lowlands of Central America.  In appearance they are something like a cross between a rail and a small heron, but are in a family all of their own.

We could not find anything from the bridge, and our guide led u s a cross a football pitch to get closer to the river.  As we followed he stopped and signalled to come closer, he had found one on the far side of the river.

Their movement is slow and deliberate, and similar to that of a rail.  You can see the long thin neck, and long tail, with distinctive markings on the head and a long dagger like bill very much like that of a heron.

Moving slowly over the rocks it preferred to jump across the rocks rather than wade through the water.

As I tried to get a better view it suddenly flew down river and out of sight.  We wound our way back to the football pitch, and then down river where our guide quickly relocated the Sun Bittern, and another now with it.  It then flew back up river, and landed on the rocks right in front of us.

We watched as it made its way carefully over the rocks.

While standing the bird is quite stunning, but as it made its way over the rocks it gave glimpses of why this bird is so special, and sought after by birders and photographers

It seemed to make a point of not wanting to wade in the water.

Carefully creeping over the rocks and boulders in and alongside the water.

Using its wings to steady itself and continuing to give more glimpses of its specialty.

The two birds following each other up river over the boulders.

Then the "piece de resistance", one turned to return down river, and I could see it would have to fly.  I waited as it looked to take off, and then fired the camera shutter as it did so.

The extended wings show a sun pattern of buffy gold on all but the tips of the primaries, extending onto some of the secondaries and greater coverts. A band of chestnut and black covers the bases of the inner primaries and is also present towards the tips of the outer primaries. The fanned tail also shows two bands of black and chestnut.

It is an amazing sight, and something I have read about and seen photographs of and always wanted to experience in the wild.  The patterns are considered to be used in defensive behaviour, typically in a frontal display where the wings I bought forward into a cowl position.  This increases the size of the bird and the two spots appear as large eyes, supporting this is the fact that both male and female have the same plumage.  There is little evidence that it is used in courtship apart from a short flight display where the wings are hung so the "eyes" can be seen.

We left the Sun Bitterns with smiles on our faces, having achieved another of this year's targets, and moved up the river valley in search of tanagers.

The road wound its way up the river valley, moving high above the water.  We stopped and walked pausing to watch the birds that were busy in the surrounding trees.  There was plenty of fruit on the bushes and trees and this was a major attraction for many different types of tanagers.  The beauty was that we were looking down, or at worst watching at eye level, so no stiff necks trying to follow the movements of the small birds

First to show well was a couple of male Black and Yellow Tanagers, I wonder how they got their name?

There was constant movement in the trees and it was down to our guide to keep pointing out a blur as it passed or showed briefly in amongst the leaves.  A Speckled Tanager carrying what seemed like nest material

Then a distant male Crimson-collared Tanager.

A Golden-hooded Tanager

In addition, there were plenty of other birds that escaped the camera, the spectacular By-headed Tanager, Tropical Parula, Common Tody Flycatcher, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Golden-crowned Warbler, Yellow-crowned Euphonia, and the Bananaquit.

We walked slowly up the road, and were surprised to find a pair of Sun Bitterns on a small lawn close to the river.  They flew up and landed on the road in front of us, and walked away from us, never allowing us to get too close.

A bird frequently found close to the edge of streams and rivers is the Black Phoebee.  This one was found around the side of a barn.

The advantage of looking down on the birds had now gone, and we were faced with scanning trees on either side of the road, it was also starting to rain which did not help things.  Our guide found a Black-headed Saltator, and a Streaked Woodcreeper, and then a superb White -ruffed Manakin, which fortunately showed briefly, and long enough for a record shot.

With the rain now becoming a nuisance we walked back towards the car.  The tanagers had been the main attraction, and to finish off a good day's list our guide found an superb Emerald Tanager, that sat nicely in the open, and allowed me to uncover the camera to get the shot.

Just before we reached the car I found a female Collared Trogon sitting at eye level in a tree.

Then our guide found the male, that was under taking a shower to bathe the plumage in a tree.

It was raining quite hard now, so we had to take the decision to abort the rest of the mornings birding, which was a real shame as there were still some good spots to visit.  As we drove up the track back to the lodge we were fortunate to come across a Green Ibis feeding in an open patch of grass, they are not normally seen at this close range.

The rain seemed as if it was settled in for the day, and cloud and mist rolled around the hills and trees close to the lodge.  At times it was just a complete white out, with no views at all of beyond the garden.  As the thunder rumbled away in the background, our attention returned once again to the hummingbirds. Coming out of our room, there was some activity around the feeder, male White-necked Jacobins were squabbling and flicking out their white tails in between feeding, and sitting in the bushes in the rain.

A Rufous-tailed Hummingbird was also out in the rain, but was taking the opportunity to shower, and preen, flicking it's wings and tail feathers to collect the rain drops.

Despite the rain there was a lot of activity around the feeders.  It involved mostly jacobins, and they could be seen flashing their white tail feathers as they defended their feeders from others that would fly in.  This involved sitting on a favourite perch and flying towards the invader and hovering and spreading out their white tail feathers.  Once the invader had been dispatched it would then return to the perch.  The rain also provided the perfect opportunity for more bathing and preening.  The white tail feathers here being fanned out to catch the rain.

A Rufous-tailed Hummingbird adopting the same behaviour

The White-necked Jacobins were taking up the more prominent perches.

With the almost white out conditions it was possible to get some interesting silhouette pictures, a White-necked Jacobin on its favourite perch.

And a Keel-billed Toucan up in the Cercropia tree

Despite the rain, a Blue Morpho butterfly appeared around the bushes and settled on the old bananas on the feeding station.

And a group of Collared Aracaris appeared from nowhere.  This a juvenile, which can be told by the plain bill.

While the adult can be identified by the distinct zig zag markings on the bill.

The Keel-billed Toucan reappeared in better light.

And was joined by a mate.

There was then a mad rush of birds appearing around the garden.  First a flock of Montezuma Orpendola.  These large birds forage in small groups looking for fruits and large insects in the canopy.  Their presence is often announced by the loud gurgling calls of the males.

The Montezuma Orpendolas were also joined by the smaller Chestnut-headed Orpendolas, but moved through very quickly.

Then from nowhere a group of four Grey-headed Chacalacas.

The Grey-headed Chachalacas are related to the Australasian megapodes or mound builders and occur naturally in the low and middle elevations on the Caribbean and southern Pacific slopes.  They are most common at elevations of about 3610 feet or 1100 m.  They usually remain in the canopy of trees - at a height of 1 - 3 metres). They are usually found walking along tree branches in woodland areas, thickets, around clearings, and along water ways.  They are very social birds are often seen in family groups of six to twelve. 

There were also two very wet Brown Jays

A Red-throated Ant Tanager was also attracted to the bananas.

Then back to the hummingbirds.  A Rufous-tailed Hummingbird settled on a bird of paradise flower

The White-necked Jacobins maintained their vigil of the feeders while the Green-breasted Mangos, and Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds looked to take their chances.

A female White-necked Jacobin

Then the appearance of a Rufous-winged Woodpecker.

The rain had continued for most of the afternoon, while the cloud and mist threatened to clear away.  Finally the rain stopped long enough to gain some confidence that it would stay away and I decided to go down to the verbena bushes around the car park, the most reliable site so far for the male Snowcap.  I positioned myself in front of the verbena bushes and waited.

It didn't take long for something to appear, at first an immature male Snowcap.

The darker feathers beginning to appear.

Then an adult male that settled in a nearby tree again.

While I waited for the Snowcap to return, I was taken by the flowers of a Golden Orchid.

A hummingbird then appeared but this time it was a Hummingbird Hawkmoth.

As it fed around the flowers it was uncanny as how similar the technique and movement was to an actual hummingbird.

Then at last another hummingbird but not the one I was looking for, but very welcome none the less.

A Little Hermit, the smallest species of Hermit hummingbird.  These hummingbirds have olive green upperparts, an orange ochraceous belly, and white undertail coverts. Males have an intensely dark brown throat, while females have broader buff margins, which makes this a female.

It was quite dull now, and photography a challenge once again.

Finally the male Snowcap appeared again, but with the gloom and the speed at which it moved around the flower heads it was only possible to get one acceptable picture

It was now getting quite dark, and it was nearly time for dinner.  We only had two nights here at Rancho Naturalista, and we felt a little cheated by the bad weather today.  Tomorrow we move on up into the highlands in search of another missed target on previous trips.  There will though be time in the morning to explore a little more before we are picked up.