Sunday 19 August 2018

29th July - Resplendent Quetzal, San Gerardo de Dota, Costa Rica


Once again another early start, overnight there had been some more rain, but when we walked out of the bungalow at around 5.30 am it was overcast, but dry.  We were meeting up with the guide in the main car park at around 6.00 am, but as always, we were early.  It is not often that I dedicate a post to just one bird, but today was special

As we stood waiting there were signs of activity all around us.  Sooty Thrushes, looking and behaving remarkably like the Eurasian Blackbirds, were feeding on the lawns, and every so often you were hear the zip of a hummingbird as it flew past.

Once our guide arrived we set of down valley, following a winding road high above the Upper Savegre river that rises here in the Cerro de la Muerte, and makes its way down the Pacific slopes to the ocean just outside Quepos.  Alongside the river were several lodges.  We came to a stop opposite a set of roughly hewn steps, and our guide told us to walk up the streps, and when we reach a group of people stop.  He had to turn his attention to our fellow travellers who we having difficulty getting started.

The walk up hill was once again a challenge at the altitude, but we pushed ourselves and finally came out to a viewing platform where people were already gathered.  It was clear they were looking at something in an avocado tree that the platform overlooked.  In my usual way I moved around in an effort to get a view, and finally located the bird sitting in amongst the leaves.


The Quetzal, or to give it it’s full name, the Resplendent Quetzel.  On both previous trips I had hoped to see one.  To be fair on our first trip we were not in the right places, but last year we had hoped to find one in Monteverde but were not successful.  Part of the reason for returning this year was to see one, and this was the reason we had come here.  We were not disappointed, there in front of us finally was the Quetzal, and a male.



If I am honest it was disappointing that the tail feathers were missing, but it was an adult male as can be told by the definite crest and has probably lost them during the breeding season.  Nesting in holes can take its toll on these feathers, they grow to about two foot long, we were shown some when we stopped at the lodge before arriving at Dantica, to have seen them would have been impressive, but looking across at the Quetzal tucked away amongst the leaves it is still an amazing looking bird.


The Quetzal is a member of the trogon family of birds, there are five species within the genus.  The name Quetzal though was originally used for this species.  The name Quetzal comes from the Aztec language meaning “tall upstanding plume”.


The resplendent quetzal was considered divine, associated with the "snake god", Quetzalcoatl by early Mesoamerican civilizations. Its iridescent green tail feathers, symbols for spring plant growth, were venerated by the ancient Aztecs and Maya, who viewed the quetzal as the "god of the air" and as a symbol of goodness and light. The Maya also viewed the quetzal symbolizing freedom and wealth, due to their view of quetzals dying in captivity and the value of their feathers, respectively.  Mesoamerican rulers and some nobility of other ranks wore headdresses made from quetzal feathers, symbolically connecting them to Quetzalcoatl.  Since it was a crime to kill a quetzal, the bird was simply captured, its long tail feathers plucked, and was set free. In several Mesoamerican languages, the term for quetzal can also mean precious, sacred, or erected.

Our bird was sitting tight for the moment, every so often turning its head


The Resplendent Quetzal is a weak flyer, and is vulnerable to predation by hawks, eagles and even owls.  The nestlings and eggs are also predated on by Toucans, Jays and Squirrels.  The breeding time of the Quetzal in this area is May to July, which would account for the tail feather loss.  Outside of the breeding season they tend to live alone.


Availability of suitable breeding trees is seen to be key to the bird’s success, the tree has to be in a state of decomposition to allow them to carve a suitable nest hole, this makes the nest site vulnerable to weather damage.


While the bird sat still in the tree it would constantly move its head from side to side, tilting it to look up.  This behaviour is known as “bowing” and is part of a bonding display during the breeding season, but is also the birds natural behaviour as it searches the trees for suitable fruits to eat


The Quetzal is considered a specialist fruit eater, but it does mix the diet with insects, frogs and lizards.




Finally the bird moved, dropping down to a branch heavily covered with lichen



Particularly important to the Quetzal’s diet are avocados and other fruits of the laurel family.  They swallow the fruit whole and then regurgitate the pips, which helps disperse the trees.






Then the bird flew once again, this time up to the tips of the branches and leaves.  I suspect it was searching for fruit using a method that is known as “hovering” and “stalling” to select the right fruit.  Just any old avocado is not good enough for the Resplendant Quetzal.

When it returned it was hidden behind the bough of the tree, and I took what is probably my favourite photo of this portfolio.  For me it emphasises the secretiveness and shyness while at the same time emphasising the beauty of this very enigmatic bird.


Many people were now on the platform, and I found myself moving around to get a different view.  The Quetzal has become very important for Costa Rican tourism, with land owners and farmers being given subsidies to grow the right trees to attract these amazing birds.  Non bird watchers come on these tours to see it and hopefully come to appreciate the beauty of this bird, and others in the future.




With the sun beginning to appear above the slopes of the valley the bird became a little more active in the tree, flying around and using different perches.  They tend to be loyal to a particular tree and will defend it from other Quetzals.






Then from nowhere another bird arrived.  There was a squabble but both stayed in the tree, the new bird was another male, but an immature bird, still to attain the full crest of the adult, but with some growth of tail feathers. 



It can take up to three years for the young males to get the full growth in the tail feathers



While I didn’t get to see the tail feathers on the adult you could get some idea of the size.
The older bird finally decided to chase the intruder away, flying at it, and pushing it out of the tree, and the review of prospective fruits in the tree continued.




The sun finally broke above the far valley slope, and the light changed around the tree, and with it a subtle change on the iridescent feathers of the Quetzal




Just as we were about to leave the Quetzal finally found a suitable fruit.


It seemed much to big to swallow, but the bird would throw back its head frequently, moving the fruit slowly back in the beak.


Until it finally managed to swallow it.  At this point we had to leave, nad made our way back down the steps.  I had finally seen the bird that most come to Costa Rica for.  It hadn’t disappointed. 

These images came from the 700 images I took, all much the same, but I didn’t want to miss a thing.  As we drove back up the valley I once again had a smile, certain birds do that to you and this one thoroughly deserved to have this post all to itself

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