We were staying outside the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA), and after breakfast and the selection of the picnic lunch we were off and on the road just before 7.00 am. We had about an hours drive to the descent road and I have decided to describe the journey as if we had not had those brief glimpses over the last few days.
After checking in at the NCA office, we set off on the gravel road of rich red soil. It was misty, on account of low cloud, and the vegetation all around us was very lush, attributable to the cloud forest climate. We climbed steadily on a winding road, the low cloud obscuring any views down the crater slope to our left. Dung on the road indicated the presence of Cape Buffalo and it wasn't too long before we came across one by the side of the road, and then another. They were clearly on the move over night and you had to be impressed by their ability to move through the dense jungle and up hill too.
The cloud was still thick as we passed Hero's Point, and as a result we didn't get the first glimpse down into the crater. A little further n and we could see the white expanse of the salt pan, above which the sky was clearing and the sun was lighting up the crater floor. crater.
Passing some of the signs for the lodges the cloud started to lift along with the landscape turning to more grass land. Zebra could be seen with the cattle herds being tended to by the red blanketed Maasi. Finally we reached the descent road, at the Malanja depression there was a breeze blowing and it was a little cool, which is only to be expected when you are at an altitude of 2,600 metres above sea level. The sun though was out, and we could see across towards the far wall the many different colours of the crater. We waited while Hassam finalised the paper work once again. On his return we lifted the roof of the Land Cruisers, and set off on the one way track leading down into another world.
The journey up through the mist and cloud must have been similar for the early explorers who climbed the crater rim to be confronted with the incredible sight and view we had just encountered, and then set off to walk down to the crater floor. The journey in the cruiser was so impressive.
As we headed down the slope we passed birds in the trees and bushes. An Auger Buzzard scanned the area, and an Abyssinian Wheatear perched briefly close to us as we moved slowly down the hill.
The descent road leads to a cross roads not far from the shore of Lake Magadi. Here we had dropped to an altitude of 1,700 metres, a drop of just under a kilometre. The water in the lake was very low and we could see it ahead in the distance, a heat haze having started up already. Dotted around us were Thomson's Gazelles and a single Grant's Gazelle, similar to the Thomson's but a little larger and lacking the black side stripe.
We turned to the right, and headed towards the Lerai Forest. With it still being early morning the light took on a special tone.
It was difficult to take in the size of the place. Animals appeared like small dots against the crater wall, and trees and bushes took on a similar irrelevance against the weathered and erode slopes of the crater rim.
Warthogs grazed on the short grass, bending their front legs to allow their large head to be able to reach the ground.
The clouds that were breaking up from the morning mists were sending dark shadows across the crater floor. This only added to the mystery and beauty of the scenes unfolding around us.
The track then started to pass trees and bushes as we entered into the Lerai Forest. It consists mainly of Yellow Bark, or Yellow Fever Acacia trees. The trunks of these trees take on a jaundiced look caused by the colour of the bark. Because these trees are found around swamps and marshes, the breeding grounds of mosquitoes, it was thought that the trees were responsible for malaria and yellow fever. Apparently the Maasi boil the bark into a broth and drink it to combat malaria. The trees have that characteristic flat top look.
A White-browed Coucal flew across the track being pursued by a Scrub Robin. Cuckoo types have this affect on anther birds. It skulked in the scrub close to the track.
We came across a small troop of Olive Baboons, and of course the main attraction was a youngster.
Inquisitive, but at the same time wary and not wanting to let go of its mother.
A little further on an there were Vervet Monkeys by the side of the track.
We stopped at a picnic site where there were facilities, we had been on the road for about two hours now. On the top of the Acacias around the site were White-backed Vultures, and they started to fly using the thermals as the ground started to warm up.
In amongst them were Ruppell's Griffon Vultures, the under wing showing a streaked light area instead of a block of white, and a paler bill
Leaving the picnic site we headed out of the Lerai Forest leaving the Yellow Fever trees behind us.
As with the tracks in the Serengeti it was difficult to know where we were. The rim wall though was able to give some perspective. Leaving the forest we followed a track that took us through some wetlands. Cape Buffalo were grazing in the water, while on the small pools there were several duck, the first we had seen since the Whistling Duck at Lake Manyara. These were much small, the large red billed ducks being Red-billed Duck and the slightly smaller Hottentot Teal.
We stayed watching the duck and buffalo, and then Helen pointed out a Hamerkop sitting on a branch.
The name hamerkop comes from the dutch for literally hammer head. It is unusual amongst the heron family in that it has an all brown plumage. It feeds like all the other herons through stealth and patience. It is known though for the huge nest it builds in a tree and uses year after year, adding to the construction, and providing nest sites for many other birds.
We came out of the wetland into open flat grassland. The grass being short. Grazing animals such as Wildebeest, Thomson's Gazelles and Zebra were spread out in front of us.
A mother and foal Zebra stood side by side.
While another pair allowed a close up black and white portrait.
As we headed north east to our right we could see the Gorigor swamp. The water levels here vary due to season, but has water at most times of the year. The water level was not high, but we could make out distant lump in the mud that we assumed were Hippo.
Striding along across the open flats to the edge of the swamp were a pair of Grey Crowned Cranes. We pulled over, and I took some distant record shots of them, but it was clear that they were unconcerned by us and were heading towards the track. We followed as they made their way, waiting for the best opportunity which did come.
The pair at first were together but then parted.
Before coming together once again.
The name is more "grey" and "crowned" rather than "grey-crowned". The crown is in fact a plume of golden feathers that catch the wind and sunlight.
They do gather in large flocks at times here in the crater, but they are more commonly seen in pairs as we were finding here. They appeared to move synchronously together
Even down to the steps!
Still need some more practice, the need for possible food outweighing the dance routine.
Getting better.
And back up together.
It is the golden crown though that holds the attention, and they came close enough for some lovely portraits, with the breeze and sunlight adding to the impressive crown.
Here the full beauty of the Crane showing the grey plumage that gives it the name and lovely russet bushel.
We left the cranes behind and came across a pair of Golden Jackal. These are larger than the Black-backed we had seen in the Serengeti. Unlike the Black-backed which is endemic to the continent, the Golden Jackal probably originated from Asia, there is also a genetic link to the north american Coyote of which they look very similar.
The Golden Jackal is a generalist having a very omnivorous diet. It is quite capable of scavenging, but unlike the other jackal species doesn't seem to do this to a great extent. Another feature of this Jackal is its ability to go for long periods without water and is often found in arid conditions.
We finally turned away from the Gorigor Swamp and headed north through the open grassland. On either side of the truck were strewn rocks, and very dry soil with spares amounts of grass and other vegetation.
A male Ostrich was walking across the open land, the wind blowing to substantial feathers.
The males have the dark black feathers where the female and immature birds are more brown.
As we moved along we came across a Kori Bustard, and at one point had in view the heaviest flying bird, and the largest bird in the world, the Ostrich
A closer view of the Kori Bustard.
Lizards darted down holes and small brown birds could be seen flitting around the rocks.There were several Northern Wheatears showing their white rumps as they scattered away from the sides of the road.
A wader type bird had me calling to stop, and I was able to see my first Temminck's Courser.
Frustratingly it insisted on walking away from me, but the diagnostic head pattern was visible. These are the commonest of the four coursers found here in the Serengeti area, having seen the Double-banded the day before.
Another movement by the side of the truck revealed a Kittlitz's Plover. This plover differs from the others likely to be seen in the area by the lack of breast band.
Another Wheatear on a rock, but this time something not familiar to me, a new bird, the Isabelline Wheatear.
The name comes from Isabell ! of Castil who famous promised never to change her undergarments until Spain was freed of the Moors, needless to say this took a long time and they underwent a change in colour.
Another stop for a rock perched bird, here the Red-capped Lark
And a Pectoral patch Cisticola.
The track runs around the Lake Magadi, and would have been close to the water's edge, had there been any water. However there was some, and this was occupied by Egyptian geese and what look like both Greater and Lesser Flamingos, but nowhere near the numbers of Lake Manyara.
The lake is alkaline as are all the main lakes in the Rift valley and surrounding crater Highlands. The lakes become Alkaline due to the fact that water cannot escape, that is they are contained in a bowl as we find here, while there is a large chance of evaporation. A rich diversity of microbial life inhabit the lakes, making them productive ecosystems, and a mjor attraction to filter feeding birds like flamingos.
We turned back on to a route taking us north east and running parallel with the Mandussi Swamp. This swamp is fed by the Munge river that rises from the north eastern crater wall. The Munge dissects the crater with the area north of the river drier than the south.
A Blue-headed Tree Agama Lizard sat on a rock in the sunshine by the side of the road. Their colour changes to their mood, but unlike the Chameleon they have colour variations, bright and dull. Here he is warming up and showing a bluish green tone
The plains we were now passing contained longer grass, and herds of Cape Buffalo, Wildebeest and Zebra were gathering. The water from the swamp promoting the grass growth. Two animals not seen in the crater are Giraffe and Impala, both of which are common in the surrounding plains. The absence of Giraffe is attributed to both the lack of suitable fodder for food and their ability to negotiate the steep crater wall. For the impala there is a thought that they like the cover of small scrub acacia bushes, a vegetation type that is missing in the crater, but in general, there absence is a mystery.
In amongst a small herd of Zebra two were engaged in a fight.
Both teeth and feet being used against each other.
The tussle was like watching a wrestling match with each Zebra trying to bite and trip up the other by biting at the hind quarters
With each managing to turn away and pull out.
Then trying to use the neck to push the other to the ground.
Then in a combined action they were both down which made me consider whether this was a true fight or just play.
Then as they strived to both get up they were at it all over again.
There had been a lot of radio chatter and we could see vehicles gathering. Hassam was keen to leave the Zebra so we did and zoomed off at a rate of knots over the rough track. We came across the other vehicles all lined up along the track. At first I couldn't make out which direction they were looking, but to the north it was empty. Looking south there was a dark lump out in the middle of the grass.
Then a slight twitch at one end, an ear flicking and two spikes appeared, a Black Rhino (in my best David Attenborough voice!).
The Ngorongoro Crater has always been famous for its Black Rhino population. From a population of greater than 100 in 1964 this figure fell to no more than 10 in 1992 due to poaching. Aided by the introduction of a mother and calf from South Africa this number increased to 18 by 1998 but then sadly five rhinos died by 2001 one taken by a lion and the others falling to a tick-bourne disease linked to the low rainfall in those years.
Despite all this the area is still one of the best places to see Black Rhino in the Northern Tanzania area. The Black Rhino is a diurnal grazer which is then odd to see them out in the grassland during the day. The fact though is that they graze in the Lerai Forest by night and come out into the grassland by day.
We then had one of the best views we were likely to get due to the distance and heat haze as the Rhino lifted its head a little more.
This was a a Rhino, and the fifth member of the Big Five, so called as they were considered the main prize of big game hunters: Lion, Leopard; Elephant; Cape Buffalo and the Rhino (Black or White).
Having stood up and showed well it promptly sat back on its rear legs.
Then flopped down on its side and out of sight. You could hear a collective sigh of disappointment all around the Land Cruisers, and you had to feel sorry for those vehicles away in the distance frantically making their way over to where they hoped they would see a Black Rhino.
Hassam decided to visit the nearby Hippo Pool, but before we reached it we stopped to watch a small group of male Cape Buffalo. They looked like they had just come from a refreshing mud bath.
The road alongside the Hippo Pool allowed you to get close to the water. We were one of the first to arrive so had a good spot. The Hippo as before were huddled together in the water, and all around the pool and on the backs of the Hippo were Cattle Egret, while Black-headed Egrets could be seen on the bank and in the trees surrounding the pool.
The backs of the Hippo were covered in Cattle Egrets and their droppings, while a couple of Black Crakes made their way over the backs searching for anything among the skin and mud. Every so often there would be a splash and escape of gas followed by a frantic wagging of tails. The smell was quite strong too.
As before there was little activity. One Hippo though broke loose from the pack along with a self styled mud pack.
We sat watching and waiting, with very little happening. Attention turned to the birds close by. On the bank of the pool Blacksmith and Crowned Plover lined the edge. This Common Waxbill flew in and showed briefly.
And out of the reeds on the pool came a pair of Hottentot Teal.
We moved to a pool on the other side where a single Hippo was in the water with a youngster. Unfortunately the were too far off to make a suitable photograph. As we pulled away from the side of the pools a female Marsh Harrier flew across. At that particular moment it was like I was back at Titchfield Haven.
We pulled back out onto the main track once again and the dark mass was back in the open field. We headed back to the line of trucks and once again got ourselves back into a good viewing position. We stopped and waited to see if we could get better views.
There was plenty of ear flicking and tail swishing.
The Black Rhino here in the crater is their slightly lighter colour probably arising from the mud they lay in and the salt deposits.
The naming of the two species of Rhino has been the subject of gross corruption since their discovery by Dutch colonials hundreds of years ago. The White Rhino was originally given the dutch name wijd meaning wide on account of the wide shaped lip. The second species was hastily called Black no doubt due the colour of the skin, but this is down mostly to the soil, mud or dust the animal has rolled in. The Black Rhino here in the crater have a slightly lighter colour probably arising from the mud they lay in and the salt deposits. The alternative names of Square-lipped and Hook-lipped never really held much affection.
Our Rhino was on the move, turning to face us. The hope was that it would walk this way
The hope though faded quickly as it turned again and headed away from us.
The difference in the shape of the lips can be attributed to the feeding method. The white is a grazer, it eats grass, while the black is a browser taking leaves from trees and bushes with its prehensile lip, hence the foraging in the Lerai Forest.
There huge size and armoury make them a very formidable animal, rarely taken by Lion although calves will sometimes be targeted. Males use their horns to battle sometimes over females, and the species has one of the highest mortality rates between feuding animals.
Their eye sight is very poor but have acute senses of smell and hearing making it very difficult for anything to approach it without the Rhino knowing. Once it realises something is about there is a grunt, and sneeze before it turns and runs away at pace with the tail up.
Our Rhino continued the turn and started to walk away from us. I suppose this should not have been a surprise as this was the direction towards the forest. I suspect it gets so far and then lies down amongst the vastness of the plain and waits for the right time to cross into the forest.
This wider angle gives some perspective of the view we had and the distance we were from the Rhino.
This is the best place to close part one of the morning in the crater, some great encounters including the Rhino, which is probably the animal that everyone wants to see when they come to the Ngorongoro Crater, I know it was for us.
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