With no wild animal to stop me this morning I was up dressed and out of the tent before the sun was up. As I walked along the trail I disturbed the Starlings and Weavers that followed me. The sky away to the east was constantly changing. At first a brightening on the horizon but with dark leaden grey clouds above.
Then a uniform colour change in the clouds to a purple and pink.
Followed by flame reds and oranges around the cloud edges as the sun reached the horizon and sent its light out across the morning sky.
As I stood watching the scenes unfold I heard some trampling noises from behind a bush and out slowly walked a bull Cape Buffalo, it turned to look at me before slowly walking away into the bush.
Once again there was a lot of bird activity around the camp, one of the noisiest were the Usambiro Barbets, a pair calling and displaying from a fallen tree.
While around the termite mound in front of the mess tent a Ruppell's Starling was searching for flying termites.
On the roof apex of the tents were Wire-tailed Swallows
While of course there were plenty of Superb Starlings brightening the morning, the rising sun emphasizing their plumage.
After the rains of yesterday it was as if everything was warming up or drying out in the morning sunshine. A White-bellied Canary.
A small group of Speckled Mousebirds, adding agility and gymnastics to the proceedings.
A Speckle-fronted Weaver was also foraging around the kitchen and mess tent.
And a Hildebrandt's Starling, similar in plumage to the Superb Starling, but lacking the white bar on the chest.
Finally I noticed a gathering of swallows on dead trees out in the bush. I tried to get closer but disturbed some, just leaving two Angolian and a Red-rumped Swallow.
After breakfast we settled our bill, loaded the cruiser, and set off out into the bush once again. The track was in an even worse condition than yesterday, with plenty of mud and open water.
The herds of Wildebeest and Zebra were spread out all around us as we made our way through the open grassland.
Passing the tree where yesterday there was the pair of Lilac-breasted Rollers, this morning we could only find one.
With the grass land being so vast there is the need for the predators and scavengers to be able to find vantage points to look for opportunity. In the case of the Cheetah we have seen that they use termite mounds, for the birds of prey they use the tops of the acacia trees and bushes. Here a Ruppell's Vulture sits and waits for signs of a kill somewhere across the vastness of the Serengeti plains.
We came across a Topi with a young calf, she was leading the young across the path in front of us and away.
On the same side of the track was a large herd of Zebra and Wildebeest. The Zebra were clearly aware of something being a risk.
Then from the other side of the track came more Topi, galloping at pace and they crossed in front of us and caught up with the others and the youngster.
Then a cry of "Cheetah" from one of the other cruisers nearby and a quick scan over the grassland from where the Topi had come from revealed a Cheetah sitting upright on a termite mound in amongst the grass.
The distance was probably about the same we had seen yesterday's, and there was every chance this was the same animal as we were in the same area.
Then, drama, A pair of Spotted Hyena could be seen walking through the grass, and heading for the Cheetah. The Cheetah had seen them too.
The hyena passed close to the Cheetah, but as there was no kill to dispute over they left each other alone.
The Cheetah though watched them closely as they walked away.
Then resumed the watch of the open grass.
It was looking past us to the large herds of Zebra, Wildebeest, and Topi, the young one probably not escaping its notice.
Unlike yesterday the Cheetah then decided it had enough of sitting and waiting, and stood up and answered our prayers and started walking towards us.
It was more of a slow plod, stopping every so often to look around.
Once again we were in the perfect position as it headed towards us, then turned slightly to walk across us.
We were now able to appreciate the beauty of the animal, the solid spots and the sleek greyhound like appearance of the body, with the arched back and spine that enables the speed.
Everything about the animal is built for speed. The arched and flexible back, and the long tails that is used for balance as it twists and turns in pursuit of its prey. Once stalked the prey will be chased for up to 500 metres in which time the nostrils enlarge to take on more oxygen, and the body works overtime to distribute the oxygen to to the muscles. Once the prey is caught the Cheetah needs time to recuperate before eating.
It crossed the path in front of us and headed towards the herds.
These views had taken yesterday's sighting up yet another notch, the Serengeti was definitely delivering.
As the Cheetah moved away from us the Zebra were on guard, watching every step.
We moved to a picnic site up on a small kopie, and from here others watched the Cheetah walking through the grass, a distant dot. I found the view much more rewarding.
From the picnic site we headed down the track and off into who knows where, I paused then to wonder how Hassam knows where he is going as everything looks the same. It was clear though we were heading somewhere.
Parrot like calls alerted me to birds flying from the bushes to the puddles on the tracks and we stopped for a group of Fischer's Lovebirds, delightful little parrots they are most often seen in groups feeding on the ground or drinking at small pools.
We came across a small group of Giraffe feeding on the acacia bushes and trees, here a sense of perspective.
While a closer look at the giraffe, a female identified by the tufted horns.
Then in one of the many flooded areas of the grassland a Wooly-necked Stork, another bird to the growing list.
These storks are relatively scarce in the Serengeti and when seen are usually wandering birds. The name comes from the brown feathers at the base of the neck, the white neck separating it from the similar Abdim's stork.
In contrast with yesterday it was a beautiful day. Yesterday there was always the threat of rain away in the distance with dark menacing clouds. Today it was blue skies and white fluffy clouds providing super high skies contrasting with the loneliness of the the sparse trees.
We came across a fallen Yellow bark Acacia that had become a playground for young Olive Baboons. A single adult Baboon had been tasked with the responsibility of watching over the kindergarten, but he was clearly not taking the duties seriously.
The youngsters though were having a great time climbing and leaping through the dead branches.
The darker baboons are very young babies, while the others were probably the equivalent of early teenagers.
The stills doesn't do the activity justice, its best appreciated by the video sequence.
As we watched the Baboons a Lilac-breasted Roller flew in to perch on one of the dead branches.
Leaving the Baboons we followed one side of a small valley, with the remains of a dry stream at the bottom. Here was a small herd of Bohor Roebuck, another species of antelope to add to the list.
As with other antelope the Bohor Roebuck is found in small herds led by a male. The Bohor is an abundant species in the Serengeti, but difficult to see as it prefers to hide in the long grass away from predators rather than run away
A little further along and I picked out a Lion, as we slowed it was clear that there was more than one as other heads appeared from the grass.
There were two adult lionesses, and several young cubs. It was not easy to see exactly how many there were.
Here one of the female Roebuck doesn't appear to be doing a good job of hiding! Good job the lions are looking the other way!
Our route out of the park then changed following Hassam talking to another guide. The track we were going to take was apparently very muddy and flooded. So we turned around and headed down a quite good track at speed. With the roof up still I braved the wind and dust and continued watching calling out when I saw something, and Hassam would brak and pull over. First was a Kori Bustard by the side of the road.
The Kori Bustard's claim to fame is that it is the heaviest flying bird, weighing up to 42 pounds. It can also leap straight into the air from a standing start.
Next was a group of dark eagles gathering around termite mounds. As we got closer I called for a stop again. They were Steppe Eagles, these are very similar to the Tawny Eagle. The main distinction being the yellow gape. In the Tawny it ends just under the eye, in the Steppe Eagle it continues beyond the eye.
Then a Secretary bird striding through the grassland. Here you can see the crest feathers that are said to resemble pen quills.
The landscape was changing from short to long grass. As we were reaching the visitor centre the road was narrowed due to preparation for grading, pile of soil were blocking one side. As we slowed down a group of about six Ruppell's vultures were in the grass to our left. Hassam slowed down more, and then calmly announced that there was a Cheetah by the side of the road. Helen could see a cheetah about 250 metres from us, so could I but then I realised that there was a Cheetah drinking from a puddle on the road literally alongside the cruiser!
It was too close for the long lens!
We then realised that the Cheetah we had seen in the grass was a cub, probably about just over a year old. The vultures too were more than likely picking over the remains of the Cheetah's kill hence the need to drink.
She stopped drinking, looked up and started to walk into the grass.
looking around to the cub.
Checking on us.
If we thought the morning's views earlier were close, these were exceptional.
She then stated to walk over to the cub.
The cub sat patiently waiting for her and calling with the "chirp" like whistle call.
Having joined the cub they sat together, and it was at this point we thought that was going to be the best views.
But then they started to cross the road, and while the cub hung back the adult headed along the bank of the road towards us.
Walking slowly and cautiously she would stop every so often.
And take the time to look around.
The cub then appeared and sat on a small hump in the grass.
And called again.
Most Cheetah litters consist of 3 - 6 young which are born with spots and downy grey fur which as they grow to adult hood is lost. Here you can still see this youngster has some on its back.
A high percentage of young cubs are killed by predators, but once they reach six months they are able to follow their mother on hunts. At 18 months the mother leaves the cubs who then stay together for around six months, when they are about two years old the females will usually go their own way. Males may stay together forming a hunting group. This youngster will be all on its own.
The adult sat still allowing some portrait opportunities.
Here you can appreciate the stunning orange eyes that are so vital in spotting prey, and "teardrops" that help prevent the sunlight from obscuring their vision, and some remnants of blood on the right hand side of the muzzle.
A stunningly beautiful cat.
Then they both walked into the grass, and we assumed they would be looking for some shady spot to lay down and digest their meal.
The Ruppell's Vultures were still arriving, legs down acting as air brakes.
Every so often heads would appear in the grass along with a bone or similar.
Then the Cheetah were seen again, and yes they were looking for shade, and had found some beneath a bush.
The cub not so interested in just laying down!
But eventually joined its mother.
We left them, and continued on the way out of the park, but there was to be one more stop, this time for Spotted Hyena by the side of the road. Hyena like to cool down by laying in water and puddles. This one had found a sizeable puddle by t he side of the road.
This was the closest we had been to a Hyena and it was the chance to appreciate an animal that gets a bad press. The Hyena is a wonderful parent and formidable hunter. Known for their scavenging habits the Hyena is quite capable of catching its own prey and is quite capable of chasing and tackling prey the size of even a Cape Buffalo.
Specialised teeth and powerful jaws allow the hyena to consume everything of a Zebra within an hour.
Hyena society is female dominated and highly complex in comparison to other carnivores. Females are noticeably larger than males, and the Alpha female can rule over a clan of anything up to 50 individuals.
The puddle was a welcome resource to several of the Hyena.
We finally made it to the main gate where we stopped for lunch. The Serengeti had been incredible and delivered in every way for the animals, birds and landscape. There was one more bird before we left, a Silverbird which is a flycatcher.
From the Serengeti we were back into the Ngorongoro Conservation area, and herds of cattle replaced the Wildebeest although there were still Zebra and Thomson's Gazelle dotted amongst them.
Here an abstract view of the sky and landscape.
We passed Maasi villages and eventually reached the descent road into the Ngorongoro Crater our fist view of the this amazing landscape.
A full panorama.
We would be descending here tomorrow morning, but for now we were back on the road, heading to the Old Farmhouse for the evening.
We stopped at Heroes point for another view. This was where we had our first glimpse a couple of days ago as we headed into the Serengeti.
On leaving the NCA we stopped to file the paperwork. As we waited for Hassam an African Pied Wagtail was feeding around the cruiser.
It was then just a short drive to the Old Farmhouse, a lovely lodge set in beautiful gardens. The Serengeti had lived up to everything, what would the Ngorongoro Crater deliver?
No comments:
Post a Comment