The Cape Buffalo is the most gregarious and abundant of the so called Big Five. It has the reputation of being ferocious and has killed many people over the years in Africa. Solitary males weighing up to 1,000 kilogrammes are the most dangerous.
In large congregations though they can be quite timid and skittish often stampeding away from any perceived danger. Lion is the major predator of Buffalo although Leopard will take calves. Lion will prefer to tackle male Buffalo rather than face the wrath of the females with young. The females will form a tight circle around any calves and defend them vigorously Females can be told from the males by their long slender horns. A mature bull's horns are fused in the centre creating a boss. The dominant males usually have the largest horns.
Cape Buffalo are ruminants which means that they have a four chambered stomach. Plant material consumed is partly digested in the first stomach, then regurgitated and chewed over for a second time. This ensures the coarse plant material is processed to maximise the calorific and protein value. Other ruminants are the Giraffe and Wildebeest, while other large plant eaters such as Elephant, Hippo, Rhino, Warthog and Zebra are non ruminants.
The Cape Buffalo were not on their own. They were constantly being attended to by Oxpeckers, in this case the Red-billed Oxpecker. They collect the ticks and skin parasites.
However this apparently symbiotic relationship is not all that it seems for as well as feeding on the skin parasites and even ear wax, oxpeckers are also happy to feed on open wounds, drinking the blood.
The Red-billed above have a red bill, the other oxpecker is the Yellow-billed Oxpecker below, and they are not totally yellow billed only at the base of the bill. The other identification feature is a pale rump.
We were heading south through the shorter grass land passing Thomson's Gazelle and Zebra. Then we turned to the east heading for another Hippo pool and the Ngolitokitok Springs. A couple of trucks were watching something in the now longer grass. Wee pulled over and could see a Serval Cat in the long grass, our third sighting of this normally shy and elusive cat.
It was hunting, stalking through the long grass, stopping to listen.
A pause, wait with ears pointing forward and then a leap.
A bounce and then another pounce.
We waited had it caught anything? Apparently not. Try again
No luck so it was off into the grass and away from us.
As we left the Serval, and headed to the the distant trees surrounding the pools. On the way we passed yet another Ostrich.
As we drove into the picnic area we were confronted with a lot of Land Cruisers either parked or maneuvering into position. People were out of the vehicles and heading for the services and everywhere were small birds, mostly weavers congregating around the vehicles and people. Out in the water you could see Hippo, spread out across the lake rather than gathered together in the mud as we had seen them before.
We parked away from the masses, but this did not protect us from the marauding birds, the view though was quite spectacular across the lake.
This view is looking towards the south east of the crater rim.
As soon as we were out of the vehicle the birds arrived. This is a Long-tailed Widow Bird. The males in breeding plumage are black with orange wing patches long black tail feathers. Out of the breeding season and the immature birds are similar to the females, brown and streaked but retaining the orange wing patch.
The most daring of the birds were the Rufous-tailed Weaver Birds. These would literally fly at you, if you took your eye of the sandwich, and attempt to take it from your hand. The trick was to always look at them. Quite a conspicuous bird with its grey blue eye.
We have been seeing Helmeted Guineafowl all around the bush. These are birds of the open grassland, and are quite common. Having ignored them up to now I felt I should at least have one photograph of them. Up close their plumage is quite lovely.
Across East Africa their Swahili name is Kanga which is the name given to the colourful spotted cloth worn by women as a Sarong.
Other weavers visiting us were this spectacular male Speke's Weaver.
But the most daunting of these avian pirates had to be the Black Kites. They could be seen soaring around the whole area, and as the number of visitors increased so did the number of Kites. At first we saw one or two, but gradually this number increased to five birds. The reason they come is that the visitors feed them, after that they become more and more adventurous, looking to take food out of the hand when no one is looking.
Being quite a large bird, they are a real threat, but they are only doing what Kites do best, scavenging and exploiting an opportunity.
We also had a non avian visitor, but it didn't seem to be too interested in the food, content to nibble on the grass.
Known as a Grass or Acacia Rat it is in fact a mouse, this is one of the most abundant rodents in the area, and no doubt a food source for the birds and cats. Quite cute though.
A large dark bird of prey behind us perched on a rock required some investigation.
It is in fact another Auger Buzzard, but in the dark phase, It wasn't until it flew that I saw the red tail and confirmed this.
It was a pleasure to be able to get out and walk about, however it was the middle of the day and very warm in the open sunshine. We strolled down to the waters edge, normally we would have be warned of the possibility of Crocodile, but like the Giraffe and Impala, there are no crocodiles in the crater.
We were able to watch the Hippos who for once were quite active, two have an argument and knocking each other about with their huge mouth and jaws.
An African Sacred Ibis was feeding along the shore of the lake.
Suitably rested we headed away from the busy picnic area but didn't get far, as we climbed the bluff overlooking the lakes there were several stationary vehicles in front. As we pulled alongside we could see a pride of Lions stretched out in the long grass. My first thought was how close they were to where we had just been walking around quite happily.
It was a group of adult Lionesses, maybe four and some young lions, a little older than a cub. As we watched an adult and two youngsters walked over to where there was some shade under a bush. These look like young males with the beginning of a mane on their backs
The others remained in the grass, one lolling around with feet in the air, while another adult looked around.
It had all the indication of time spent watching sleeping Lions, and as I waited I took in some more views of the crater. The rim wall providing again some lovely light and changing colours.
The lack of activity was clearly on the mind of one of the other vehicles guides as he started up his engine to leave. As the car burst into life up popped a head to see what was going on.
Awake and disturbed the cub was looking for something to do.
This completely changed our thinking, we had been mulling over moving on, but now decided to see what would happen. we then watched the cub move over to what was probably it mother and suckled, the cub disappearing in the grass. This was clearly more for comfort as it didn't last long and the cub snuggled in alongside its mother and probably an auntie or sister.
The cub though didn't appear to be into sitting quietly, and as the sun went in he continued to fidget.
As with the Leopard int he Serengeti it wasn't clear if the Lioness was annoyed at the young cub or playing too, she clearly looks like she is not happy.
Those teeth look very long!
Meanwhile the mother was taking the opportunity to stretch out without the attention of her cub.
Then one of the older male cubs returned and just flopped down among the Lionesses.
The cub then returned but was quickly moved away and headed back to its auntie, so it must have been play.
And they settled down nicely together.
Then they all seemed to lay down flat and go from view. The warmth of the sun, and probably a full tummy driving the lions to do what they do best sleep. They are know to sleep and lay around for up to 20 hours a day.
Consequently we decided to move on, taking the track heading south west towards the Gorigor swamp. We past a distant bull Elephant showering itself with dust before walking into the reeds of the springs. Most of the resident Elephants in the crater are old males with fine tusks.
The area we were now in was dominated by the very short grass, and on both side were numbers of Thomson's Gazelles, some with young calves.
The male standing watch while both the female and calf fed.
There were also small gathering of the larger but still very elegant Grant's Gazelle. This gazelle is more adapted to the drier conditions and while the Thomson's will wander in search of green grass the Grant's can survive on acacia scrub for longer periods without water.
We were back in the parched dry areas of the crater. On the rocks by the side of the tarck another Agama Lizard.
And a confirmed identification of one of the numerous little brown jobs, a Red-winged Lark
Plus a Kori Bustard close to the track.
We followed the track parallel to the swamp, heading back towards the Lerai Forest. As we came into the forest we came across a lone male Elephant feeding on one of the acacia bushes.
Movement from the side of the bushes to the left saw another larger male arrive and it made its way slowly towards the other smaller male. Here is what happened.
The possibly younger smaller male disappeared into bushes while the aggressor, if you can call it that, stayed around, but still sending a message by waving it s trunk and flapping the ears.
We made our way slowly through the Lerai Forest, staring into the undergrowth and trees in the hope of finding something hiding there. Vultures were gathering in the trees, some at the top but others on the main boughs of the yellow bark trees.
This is a White-backed Vulture which is the commonest vulture found in the area. It looks similar to the Ruppell's Vulture, but is slightly smaller and has a dark bill compared to the pale one on the Ruppell's.
Each vulture has a strategy when it comes to scavenging around the carcasses. The White-backed plays the numbers game benefiting when more than ten are at the carcass, their numbers being able to intimidate a larger vulture away.
As we moved on I immediately called to stop having seen two dark birds perched in a nearby tree. I had taken several attempts to photograph this bird in the air, and failed mostly due to its habit of drifting over the truck and my view being obscured by the roof. However here were to Bateleur Eagles perched in a tree for me.
The name comes from the French word for acrobat due to its habit when soaring of tilting the wings back and forth for balance like a tightrope walker. In flight the wings are swept back and the tail appears so short it is as if there is no tail at all.
Coming out of the forest we had views across the open plain and salt pan away to the north. Storm clouds were gathering over the Serengeti plains once again and providing a dramatic background for the caldera.
Zebra and Thomson's Gazelle grazed on the short grass, the clouds in the background dwarfing them.
Dust devils were create by the warm thermals and would appear across the open salt pan.
A Zebra stood close to the track with the distant salt pan behind, her foal was suckling.
A single Black-backed Jackal stopped its travel to watch us pass.
The breeze provided a comical photograph of a male Ostrich as it walked away from us, the feathers blowing to one side to reveal "a bit of leg". It reminds me of the late seventies Athena poster of the girl playing tennis. Yes I am that old!
The light was constantly changing brought on by the clouds, shadows and dust blown up from the ground. Here the white salt pan contrasts with the blue skies and rim slopes cast in shadows away to the eastern side of the crater rim.
Time was moving on, and we turned and headed back into the Lerai Forest. Just before we reach the forest a bird of prey flew across the open plain. It was a Harrier, and as it came close and banked I could see that it was a female Pallid Harrier from the underwing pattern and just a hit of a collar above the neck and facial disc.
As we drove through the forest once again Helen called for a stop as a large antelope could be seen in the bush.
I had been hoping we would catch up with this lovely antelope, a Waterbuck, this one being a female. While not confined to wetlands the Waterbuck does need fresh water frequently. Here we were on edge of the swamp. The Waterbuck came out of the bush and walked around the back of us.
With the sun falling the light was become a lot more golden emphasising the yellow in the bark of the Acacias.
And contrasted against the dark colours of the crater rim slope shadows.
Some stationary vehicles ahead indicated the promise of something and as we came around the corner we could see a large herd of Elephants grazing on the acacia, thorns and all.
I had earlier stated that the main resident elephants in the crater are older males. Matriarch led family groups will move through the crater at times, and this was what we had come across here. There were at least three very young elephants in the herd.
Everything was focused on feeding.
They crashed their way through the bushes and crossed the track as we followed them around.
The youngsters following their mother.
This youngster being a little belligerent, and flapping its ears in an attempt to make itself known.
They all moved slowly away from us, intent on feeding. On average an elephant spends 16 hours a day feeding, and there is very little that is going to put them off their food.
Seeing Elephants in the wild is an awe inspiring experience, the size, the power contrasted with the extreme gentleness never fails to capture your heart. In addition the low deep bass rumbling as they communicate with each other is another amazing experience.
Our destination tomorrow, Tarangire is known for its huge elephant population and we were hopeful of some more elephant experience then. But now our time was up and we had to leave this incredible ecosystem.
Just as there is a descent road, there is also an ascent road. Both are one way, but the ascent road is fully paved. But despite this there as need to switch to four wheel drive and there was a very steep incline and many switchbacks as we climbed the kilometre up to the top of the crater rim and down the other side.
As we passed through the trees on the slope of the rim, looking back the crater was once again bathed in sunshine, highlighting this very special place.
Back at the Ngorongoro Farmhouse it was time to start preparing for our last full game drive tomorrow in Tarangire National Park. After all the wonderful encounters this week what could Tarangire deliver?
No comments:
Post a Comment