Friday 17 August 2018

28th July - Turrialba to San Gerardo de Dota, Costa Rica

It was another early start as we awoke with the sun still with plenty of time before it rose above the hillsides around the lodge.  Today we are moving on to the Highlands, and an area around San Gerardo de Dota on the edge of the Quetzel Natrional Park, that should give some idea of what our target was there.

However in the mean time we still had some und=finished business around the lodge, and after getting ready we headed out to the insect light.  Yesterday we had sat watching to see what birds would arrive to take the moths, this morning we were interested to see what moths were coming to the light.  Identification was always going to be difficult, as there are over 6000 species of moth and butterfly in Costa Rica, but I was up to give it a go.  I picked out the more exotic of the species present.

This is a type of clearwing



These next ones looked quite spectacular




While these are familiar to European species, a type of Emerald



Almost like a Silver Y or Prominent



And a Swallowtail?



This is very similar to a Cracker butterfly



Then some big ones, this is a type of Emperor.



And this is like a dead leaf when the wings are closed, but as it opens up the abdomen is bright orange and black






Leaving the moths the sun was just coming up, and for the first time on this trip there was blue sky about and we were treated to a proper dawn.  We headed down the track out towards the area where yesterday we had seen and heard the White-collared Manakins, and as we approached once again we could hear the fire cracker sounds that told us they were about.

We made our way carefully down the track, it was quite muddy now after the rains of the previous day.  At the level patch we stood and waited and in the dark areas a male appeared


Manakins “lek”, that is they gather in chosen places and perform courtship rituals, in the case of the White-collared Manakin this involves the snapping of the wings and dancing by jumping up and down on a selected branch accompanied by another male bird.

The individual we were watching did not dance in the open, but did call when it was out in the open




While the male has the white collar, and yellow breast and belly, the female is all green apart from the orange legs that you can see here on the male.



This particular bird would come and go, but we were able to watch it dancing and snapping the wings deep into the undergrowth.  It would then re-appear on the same branch.



As we waited for the Manakin to appear, a Green Hermit Hummingbird flew past, pausing briefly around the heliconias, and in the scrub were several Red-throated Ant Tanagers



As breakfast time approached we wandered back to the lodge, a Rufous-tailed Hummingbird sat on the flower of a Bird of Paradise.



While over breakfast a Streak-headed Woodcreeper appeared in the garden


Along with a pair of Keel-billed Toucans





After breakfast we returned to the track and spent some time in one of the neighbour’s garden.  The owner very generously allowed us to sit around the garden where he has several feeders and a feeding station.  Hummingbirds, were of course, everywhere.  A Violet-crowned Wood Nymph.




While a Rufous Motmot silently appeared.



White-necked Jacobins were busy defending territory, flashing their white tail feathers at any other hummingbird that dared to encroach.


There were nice views of a male Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, that was quite content to feed naturally from the Bird of Paradise flowers



Butterflies were also about, not sure of the identification of this one, although it looks like a Glass Wing


However this one is a Helcale Longwing


When we arrived, the owner pointed out the nest of an Olive-backed Euphonia.  As we left we could just make out the head of one of the young birds inside the nest.


Before walking back up the path to the lodge, we checked on the Manakins once more.  The male was out sitting on the branch calling just in front of the lek area.


Leaving the Manakin, we walked back up the road, pausing to look at a pair of Roadside Hawks, and several Banded Peacocks nectaring on the flowers by the side of the track.


At the car park I stopped to watch the verbena and was rewarded with some wonderful close up views of the male Snowcap sitting on its favourite perch.





A Stunning little hummingbird, more than worthy of the number of photographs taken!








Leaving the Snowcap I was taken by a Longwing butterfly on a nearby bush.


Finally it was time to move on.  The driver arrived and turned out to be one who had driven us last year from Monteverde to Tambor.  This time our route would take us back to Cartago, through Paraiso, so named because it was considered to be paradise by the early Spanish settlers, then up onto the Pan American Highway and into the National Park Los Quetzales, and the Cerro de la Muerte (the Mountain of the Dead), ending up in the valley area of San Gerardo de Dota.

The climb up through the national park saw us enter quite thick cloud and rain, and before we turned off for San Gerardo we stopped at the Parisio Quetzal Lodge.  Our guide from yesterday had said this was a good spot for hummingbirds.  We could watch as we had lunch.

As we walked up the hill from the car park to the lodge it soon became evident that we were now at altitude, and climbing the steps took quite some effort.There were feeders outside the main door on a small terrace.  

I could immediately see that these were different birds to those we had seen at the last lodge.  In my Costa Rica bird book this hummingbird was known as the Magnificent Hummingbird, the only member of the genus.  But since publication of the book the species has been split, with the birds found in the southern range, Costa Rica and Panama, being renamed the Talamanca Hummingbird, and those to the north, the nominate species being renamed Rivoli’s Hummingbird.


The long straight bill and white patch behind the eye a key identification feature along with the general larger size.


With the right angle of the head there is an electric blue throat patch and a violet forehead


The cloud and mist gave way to a rain shower, but the overall temperature was quite pleasant.  On the ground beneath the feeders a small Robin like bird appeared.  This is a Black-billed Nightingale Thrush which is commonly found at altitudes above 2,200 metres in the Highland region.


After lunch I concentrated on the feeders and the bushes around them.  Another new hummingbird, this time the diminutive Volcano Hummingbird.  The males have a wine-coloured throat gorget, the females spotted, both have a white breast band.  This is a female.



Back to the Talamanca Hummingbirds that were the dominant bird around the feeders.





One other species which was the one I was looking to find here was the Fiery-throated Hummingbird. 


Slightly smaller than the Talamanca and therefore having to give way to the larger bird, it would show it’s annoyance by flashing a bright multi-coloured throat patch.



There was another bird attracted to the nectar feeders that was not a hummingbird, a little bit bigger it feeds on nectar, but uses its hooked bill to pierce the base of the flower to get to the sweet nectar.  This is the Slaty Flowerpiercer.


Rufous-necked Sparrows were also a common sight on the grass around the main building, the first encounter showed them to be quite a smart sparrow, but after a while they became widespread and generally ignored.


Before we left there was one more picture of a Talamanca Hummingbird, and probably left the best one until last


It wasn't too far from the lodge to our destination, and after about another twenty minutes we turned off the main road, and wound our way down a river valley through a few houses until we reached Dantica Lodge.  

There was a main restaurant and reception, and then guest bungalows that were set in the side of the slopes overlooking the valley.  Just after we arrived and had settled in it started to rain again.  Our driver had recommended a little cafe just up the hill from the lodge, and we ventured there for the afternoon.  As it turns out, this piece of advice delivered something really special, but more on that later.

As usual darkness fell quite early, and we settled in, changed and made our way downhill in the rain to the restaurant.  After dinner the walk back up the hill was very challenging, a combination of good food, wine, and the altitude.  Tomorrow the quest is on.

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